Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[GroovyGeek]

So if you change the driveline fluids early, instead of at 150K miles like Ford says:

150,000 mi:
45. Change the automatic transmission fluid.
46. Change the manual transmission fluid.
47. Change the front axle fluid.
48. Change the rear axle fluid.
49. Change the transfer case fluid.
50. Replace the accessory drive belt(s). **

Do you wait until 150K for the next one? Is the reason for the early fluid change just to get rid of "break in" metal shavings?

Seems to be a very expensive maintenance item to do years before Ford recommends, especially for those of us that do not have a properly equipped garage to do this in. I haven't called my dealer yet about this, but my guess this is $100s of dollars, and I am not going to do it at an indy shop because I have the 8-year extended warranty, and not giving Ford any reason to deny my coverage for anything that goes wrong in that timeframe.

As I have mentioned in other threads, I keep my cars a LONG time (my 2nd vehicle, a 2004 BMW 330i is going strong at 20 years). I am totally on board with doing stuff that will demonstrably extend my vehicles life (like frequent oil changes, which I know make a difference when I drove my OG Integra 225K miles before needing a top-end rebuild, but the bottom-end needed nothing done because the crank looked like new, even under Magnaflux inspection).

Is there any independent documentation on the long-term benefits of doing early axle fluid and transfer case fluid changes?

You don't need a "properly equipped garage". All you need are the metric sockets and a oil drain pan. And the AMSOIL stuff is outrageously priced, like 2x more than other options. I used it this time and almost purchased ludicrously priced Amsoil 5W30 for my next oil change. Never again.

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[MadMan4BamaNATL]

So if you change the driveline fluids early, instead of at 150K miles like Ford says:

150,000 mi:
45. Change the automatic transmission fluid.
46. Change the manual transmission fluid.
47. Change the front axle fluid.
48. Change the rear axle fluid.
49. Change the transfer case fluid.
50. Replace the accessory drive belt(s). **

Do you wait until 150K for the next one? Is the reason for the early fluid change just to get rid of "break in" metal shavings?

Seems to be a very expensive maintenance item to do years before Ford recommends, especially for those of us that do not have a properly equipped garage to do this in. I haven't called my dealer yet about this, but my guess this is $100s of dollars, and I am not going to do it at an indy shop because I have the 8-year extended warranty, and not giving Ford any reason to deny my coverage for anything that goes wrong in that timeframe.

As I have mentioned in other threads, I keep my cars a LONG time (my 2nd vehicle, a 2004 BMW 330i is going strong at 20 years). I am totally on board with doing stuff that will demonstrably extend my vehicles life (like frequent oil changes, which I know make a difference when I drove my OG Integra 225K miles before needing a top-end rebuild, but the bottom-end needed nothing done because the crank looked like new, even under Magnaflux inspection).

Is there any independent documentation on the long-term benefits of doing early axle fluid and transfer case fluid changes?

Understand your question, but for most of us is a matter of ”how” we use our cars that lead down the DIY path.

Also, the quoted timeframes you list are for normal use. Check the section about extreme conditions.

Many of us actually use our Broncos properly by off-roading which when even on light trails can do a number on the driveline and parts. We take these risks because we love doing these things that much and are willing to spend the time and money on the pursuit. When I hit trails in 4H or 4L I often notice the transmission temp going up from the normal 185 to as high as 220. This isn’t enough to cook it, but I don’t like it; especially in the Summer. I’m going to dump this fluid and change the pan in the next year; I’m at 10K miles.

No one says the steps we take have to be done and some may well be OCD, but for those who want to keep the Bronco and keep it working at peak performance, these maintenance steps are cheaper than having a part fail due to the oil being too old.

We also generally upgrade the oils to a brand we prefer. Again, not a must to do, but something we feel strongly about and do It ourselves. No warranty will be denied for using the proper fluids, unless proven they caused the fail.

Some guys spend money on cosmetic mods into the thousands, we invest a few hundred here and there on driveline stuff; just a preference.

You’re welcome to join in the madness, but it’s ok if you don’t as well, just sharing tips.

 

[CarbonSteel]

You don't need a "properly equipped garage". All you need are the metric sockets and a oil drain pan. And the AMSOIL stuff is outrageously priced, like 2x more than other options. I used it this time and almost purchased ludicrously priced Amsoil 5W30 for my next oil change. Never again.

I am not an Amsoil shill, but it is not THAT much more expensive with a preferred account. I buy my Amsoil (gear oil) and Oil Analysis kits in bulk so I get free shipping and the $20 preferred membership pays for itself on the first bulk order.

With that said, while I think that their gear oil is arguably the best on the market, I do not use Amsoil motor oil because I do not see the value in it. None of the Ford engines in a Bronco can run extended oil change intervals so it would be a complete waste and only one of Amsoil's engine oil series has API certification.

 

[CarbonSteel]

So if you change the driveline fluids early, instead of at 150K miles like Ford says:

150,000 mi:
45. Change the automatic transmission fluid.
46. Change the manual transmission fluid.
47. Change the front axle fluid.
48. Change the rear axle fluid.
49. Change the transfer case fluid.
50. Replace the accessory drive belt(s). **

Do you wait until 150K for the next one? Is the reason for the early fluid change just to get rid of "break in" metal shavings?

Seems to be a very expensive maintenance item to do years before Ford recommends, especially for those of us that do not have a properly equipped garage to do this in. I haven't called my dealer yet about this, but my guess this is $100s of dollars, and I am not going to do it at an indy shop because I have the 8-year extended warranty, and not giving Ford any reason to deny my coverage for anything that goes wrong in that timeframe.

As I have mentioned in other threads, I keep my cars a LONG time (my 2nd vehicle, a 2004 BMW 330i is going strong at 20 years). I am totally on board with doing stuff that will demonstrably extend my vehicles life (like frequent oil changes, which I know make a difference when I drove my OG Integra 225K miles before needing a top-end rebuild, but the bottom-end needed nothing done because the crank looked like new, even under Magnaflux inspection).

Is there any independent documentation on the long-term benefits of doing early axle fluid and transfer case fluid changes?

Excluding the accessory belt and the automatic transmission, the remainder of the components do not have a pressurized or filtered lubrication system and while some of the wear metals will be trapped by a magnetic plug, there is still quite a bit that circulates. Wear metals are abrasive and will, over time, contribute to accelerated wear if not removed. How much additional wear and how much time equates to the use case, ambient temperatures, operating temperatures, loads, oil type and viscosities in use, and oil capacity.

For the Manual Transmission, Transfer Case, and Both Axles, they do not use any proprietary oil standards and the fluids can be found off the shelf. The two axles and transfer case can have their fluid changed for about $75. It is not a difficult task and anyone with some mechanical aptitude and common hand tools can do it in an afternoon. I have not looked into the manual transmission, but I would guess it too does not use proprietary fluids.

• 3 QTs of synthetic gear oil (1 for the front axle and 2 for the rear) is about $50
• 2 QTs of Mercon LV for the transfer case is about $26 (less if you use Valvoline or another aftermarket brand)

The automatic transmission takes some extra tools and for those not willing to invest or who do not feel comfortable, then have it changed at 50K at the dealer. I will not go that long, but that is just me.

As for independent documentation, they may be some, but I have never looked into it. I have developed my process over dozens of vehicles with use cases that see some heavy-duty service combined with dozens of used oil analysis tests which allow for trending of wear metals and their patterns.

Nearly every one of these systems will produce a great deal of metal in the early stages and taper off as they stack on more miles. The exception is the front and especially rear axles as these Dana 44 Advanteks produce more metal and for a longer period of time versus any axle I have ever had experience with.

So, from my perspective, I want the wear metals and contaminants out rather quickly, settle into a reasonable oil change interval, and carry on.

This may not be feasible or practical for everyone...

 

[tourproto]

Appreciate the responses @CarbonSteel @MadMan4BamaNATL @GroovyGeek.

I do go off-roading, but probably nothing like what y'all do (and definitely no rock crawling), so probably not stressing my drivetrain too hard. That said, while I won't do this myself, I will inquire on the cost of doing this. If it is too much, I won't do it now, but I will do it earlier than 150K miles.

If I blow up my drivetrain, I just hope it happens before 100K miles and 8 years which is the length of my extended warranty.

 

[The Bronc]

If you are sticking with OEM gear oil, please note that there is a discrepancy and change between the 2023 and 2024 owners manual as it relates to the front differential gear oil.

In the 2023 owner manual, there were two different oils recommended, one for the front and a different for the rear.

In the 2024 owners manual, the recommended gear oil is the same for both the front and rear.

 

[tourproto]

So got the quote from my Ford dealer while getting an oil change. $700+ to change the fluids. $280 per diff (F&r) and $160 for the transfer case.

yeah. Not doing it now. But will do around 40-50k.

if 80% pavement and 20% off-road blows my drivetrain I’ll wait for the class action suit against Ford and have it done for free

 

[604Bronco]

Well this thread convinced me today to get my front/rear diffs and transmission flushed out during my next oil change. Hopefully being proactive here pays off Appreciate all the helpful information.

 

[Tucker417]

My fluid of choice.

 

[JT58Bronc]

So got the quote from my Ford dealer while getting an oil change. $700+ to change the fluids. $280 per diff (F&r) and $160 for the transfer case.

yeah. Not doing it now. But will do around 40-50k.

if 80% pavement and 20% off-road blows my drivetrain I’ll wait for the class action suit against Ford and have it done for free

That's about right but sounds so expensive. So glad I have the knowledge, tools, drain pans, etc. to do this service myself. 65 still do all of my own work. I hope I never have to bring it to the dealer for this. And I hope I can do this service still when I am 85.

 

[tourproto]

That's about right but sounds so expensive. So glad I have the knowledge, tools, drain pans, etc. to do this service myself. 65 still do all of my own work. I hope I never have to bring it to the dealer for this. And I hope I can do this service still when I am 85.

I am OK with oil changes, but not this. Not my jam.

I intend to keep my Bronco a long time (as I have with all my vehicles) and if this is what keeps it from lasting 20 years oh well. Just like with your health, I don't think anyone has a crystal ball to say for certain that NOT doing this will cause my driveline to fail in 100k miles. So I'll roll the dice and do it in 2 more years around 40-50k miles

 

[Ziemann]

I'm starting to pull together my list for my driveline fluids.

I fall in the severe use category. I am located in cold/snow country and my Bronco on a normal winter will spend 2-3 months regularly in 4H. I tow 3000 lbs frequently- around 2000-3000 miles per year. I use 4L frequently (probably weekly) during the summer to save on the clutch when pulling my boat up steep and slippery boat landings.

I did an initial fluid change on the manual transmission just after break in at about 2000 miles and was glad I did (due to the amount of metal that drained from the Manual transmission). I have 21,000 miles on BG Synchro Shift II and it has been an excellent fluid even in the cold weather. It's a very smooth shifting lube regardless of temperature, and I will be using it again on this swap.

I'll likely use Mercon LV or Pennzoil Platinum LV in the transfer case.

Given my use case in these Dana 44 Advantek differentials, what is everyone's thoughts on viscosity? Given my towing, I am thinking that heavier weight would give me an increased buffer of protection. But, also knowing that I live in an area that can easily see -20F during the winter, I am a bit skittish about 75w140 up here. I am thinking that a 75W110 premium synthetic would be the ideal compromise? Thoughts?

 

[woodsman44]

I'm starting to pull together my list for my driveline fluids.

I fall in the severe use category. I am located in cold/snow country and my Bronco on a normal winter will spend 2-3 months regularly in 4H. I tow 3000 lbs frequently- around 2000-3000 miles per year. I use 4L frequently (probably weekly) during the summer to save on the clutch when pulling my boat up steep and slippery boat landings.

I did an initial fluid change on the manual transmission just after break in at about 2000 miles and was glad I did (due to the amount of metal that drained from the Manual transmission). I have 21,000 miles on BG Synchro Shift II and it has been an excellent fluid even in the cold weather. It's a very smooth shifting lube regardless of temperature, and I will be using it again on this swap.

I'll likely use Mercon LV or Pennzoil Platinum LV in the transfer case.

Given my use case in these Dana 44 Advantek differentials, what is everyone's thoughts on viscosity? Given my towing, I am thinking that heavier weight would give me an increased buffer of protection. But, also knowing that I live in an area that can easily see -20F during the winter, I am a bit skittish about 75w140 up here. I am thinking that a 75W110 premium synthetic would be the ideal compromise? Thoughts?

I wouldn't over think it, syn 75w90 will be fine..

 

[userdude]

I wouldn't over think it

Said the man, completely missing the point of the thread. lol

 

[CarbonSteel]

I'm starting to pull together my list for my driveline fluids.

I fall in the severe use category. I am located in cold/snow country and my Bronco on a normal winter will spend 2-3 months regularly in 4H. I tow 3000 lbs frequently- around 2000-3000 miles per year. I use 4L frequently (probably weekly) during the summer to save on the clutch when pulling my boat up steep and slippery boat landings.

I did an initial fluid change on the manual transmission just after break in at about 2000 miles and was glad I did (due to the amount of metal that drained from the Manual transmission). I have 21,000 miles on BG Synchro Shift II and it has been an excellent fluid even in the cold weather. It's a very smooth shifting lube regardless of temperature, and I will be using it again on this swap.

I'll likely use Mercon LV or Pennzoil Platinum LV in the transfer case.

Given my use case in these Dana 44 Advantek differentials, what is everyone's thoughts on viscosity? Given my towing, I am thinking that heavier weight would give me an increased buffer of protection. But, also knowing that I live in an area that can easily see -20F during the winter, I am a bit skittish about 75w140 up here. I am thinking that a 75W110 premium synthetic would be the ideal compromise? Thoughts?

Just something to point out--the number to the left of the "W" (which stands for Winter and not Weight as commonly misunderstood) determines the cold weather performance of the oil.

With that said, 75W-90, 75W-110, and 75W-140 will all perform very well in extremely cold weather. For example, while there are other ways to measure cold weather performance, the pour points for all of these viscosities are typically -40F or lower and they are all typically exactly the same.

I would not be concerned about the cold weather performance of a synthetic gear oil and I would use 75W-140.

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