2.7 Break-in?

[Tangent27]

Excuse me ahead of time if this has been addressed in another thread ( I looked ) but any tips or info on the 2.7 break in period? 1000 miles? Oil change? Vary rpms? Any insights appreciated.

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[ChileanDAWG]

I did not think engines of today really needed break in periods, but I know nothing about engine tech.

 

[Newbie]

Check this out, from the Ranger
Owner Manual

 

[abe]

I think manufacturers still recommend a short break in period but look at all the KOH videos- several basically 0 mile Broncos running 60 or 70 mph through sand and what-not all day for several days straight. Is it really needed? Probably not.

 

[Ramble_Offroad]

Remember kids, driving with your foot on the brake may reduce fuel economy....

 

[Bronco4lyfe85]

Floor it and go! You’ve got a warranty so they’ll just replace it.

 

[AKBronc49]

Drive it like you stole it! That's what I'm gonna do lol

 

[Hoofnmouth]

Dont rest foot on brake

 

[Escape Hatch]

Drive it aggressively without redline. Done this on a few cars and never an issue with oil consumption. I have actually read it seats the rings more quickly as well.

 

[robepa]

I think manufacturers still recommend a short break in period but look at all the KOH videos- several basically 0 mile Broncos running 60 or 70 mph through sand and what-not all day for several days straight. Is it really needed? Probably not.

I think it depends on what your goals are, the KOH Broncos are factory owned and what happens to the motors at 50-100K miles is of no concern. Same goes for race motors that have very short to no break in, but they live a vary different life and die of different reasons.

For me its easy to follow the factory break in procedures and I want to give my motor the best chance to last.

 

[Southern Girl]

Check this out, from the Ranger
Owner Manual

Define "too fast"

 

[BrentC]

Drive it like you stole it! That's what I'm gonna do lol

That’s actually the best way to seat piston rings in modern engines. You need hard acceleration and deceleration to get gas pressure on both sides of the piston to push the light knurling on the rings against the cylinder to ensure a tight seating. It’s not like the old days of soft metal and heavy kurling - now the tolerances are so much better there’s less to do, but also less time to get it done before you lose the chance.

Manufacturers don’t typically recommend this technique, but racers know all about it and use it on their engines, either on the dyno or on the track/road.

I’ve done it with all my race motorcycles with great success, and apply it to a more street-legal-friendly way with my cars/trucks.

FWIW.

 

[Firefight911]

That’s actually the best way to seat piston rings in modern engines. You need hard acceleration and deceleration to get gas pressure on both sides of the piston to push the light knurling on the rings against the cylinder to ensure a tight seating. It’s not like the old days of soft metal and heavy kurling - now the tolerances are so much better there’s less to do, but also less time to get it done before you lose the chance.

Manufacturers don’t typically recommend this technique, but racers know all about it and use it on their engines, either on the dyno or on the track/road.

I’ve done it with all my race motorcycles with great success, and apply it to a more street-legal-friendly way with my cars/trucks.

FWIW.

Same philosophy that I have used for years. Same experience from my years racing cars and road-race motorcycles and what I have done with every single ICE I have owned since I could drive.

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