What Specfic Plastic Type is MIC?

[HBTFD]

I think this will bring the trim closer to the black painted tops or black Broncos. Zack’s right on the MIC top, the color match is getting closer. The light angle on the same panel causes the appearance of different shades. I chose the painted top because of fading potential and maintenance on the MIC top.

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[cowinsawdents]

MIC makes me think of the plastic on the honda element. Curious how it will hold up long term (cracking/fading).

 

[broadicustomworks]

I don't have any experience with them or know anyone who has, so they weren't one of the 2 that I've considered and have experience with.

I've used Colorbond and SEM and they both have trim paint for exterior plastics, so one of those would be my go-to, at the moment.

I'd like to know more about both products and am going to do some research for sure.
I've talked about painting them in various threads and won't get into my usual overly-long talk about it here...but definitely going to research.
I need to find out about the UV resistance, means of application (is it spray can or can it be reduced/catalyst added as a crosslink and sprayed through an HVLP), etc.
The two products I have personally had the best luck with for colorfastness and UV holdout is
Kirker Hot Rod black Single stage and Raptor brand liner.

Some of the other blacks (single stage) on the market I will not use due to the simple fact my test panels and pieces have shown little-to-none UV holdout and chalk up, turning a very unsightly grey within a year.
The worst performing one was off-the-shelf Rustoleum satin black. I tried it on a test panel (old truck bedside) due to multiple customer requests to "simply use the cheap stuff off the shelf at Lowes".
It looked pretty good right after spraying. Within 4 months it was dull and lifeless. Within 6 months it was grey-black. 6 months later it was just grey and streaky.
It was a good visual way to show them you get what you pay for usually in paint products.
Most of the time.
Tamco makes some really good UV resistant products I am dabbling in now.

 

[HBTFD]

I'd like to know more about both products and am going to do some research for sure.
I've talked about painting them in various threads and won't get into my usual overly-long talk about it here...but definitely going to research.
I need to find out about the UV resistance, means of application (is it spray can or can it be reduced/catalyst added as a crosslink and sprayed through an HVLP), etc.
The two products I have personally had the best luck with for colorfastness and UV holdout is
Kirker Hot Rod black Single stage and Raptor brand liner.

Some of the other blacks (single stage) on the market I will not use due to the simple fact my test panels and pieces have shown little-to-none UV holdout and chalk up, turning a very unsightly grey within a year.
The worst performing one was off-the-shelf Rustoleum satin black. I tried it on a test panel (old truck bedside) due to multiple customer requests to "simply use the cheap stuff off the shelf at Lowes".
It looked pretty good right after spraying. Within 4 months it was dull and lifeless. Within 6 months it was grey-black. 6 months later it was just grey and streaky.
It was a good visual way to show them you get what you pay for usually in paint products.
Most of the time.
Tamco makes some really good UV resistant products I am dabbling in now.

The thought of buying a $45k + vehicle and worrying about this is why I’m waiting for a painted top.

 

[broadicustomworks]

The thought of buying a $45k + vehicle and worrying about this is why I’m waiting for a painted top.

I get it, I really do.
I'm good with the MIC for what it is and what I'm getting.
To re-do it is no biggie for me, as it is what I do and what I know. Same with painting the vehicle the OD green I want.
But neither are going to happen until it is necessary or I tire of looking at the same color.
I can't justify in my head taking a sander to, or having/needing to paint anything on a $45k+ vehicle.
You shouldn't have to at anywhere close to that price.

 

[dcg2]

I get it, I really do.
I'm good with the MIC for what it is and what I'm getting.
To re-do it is no biggie for me, as it is what I do and what I know. Same with painting the vehicle the OD green I want.
But neither are going to happen until it is necessary or I tire of looking at the same color.
I can't justify in my head taking a sander to, or having/needing to paint anything on a $45k+ vehicle.
You shouldn't have to at anywhere close to that price.

I'm not planning on painting/ dyeing the top right away but the plan right now is to wrap the Bronco in Avery Colorflow Satin Urban Jungle. I think it's going to look pretty tight.

 

[broadicustomworks]

I'm not doing the top right away but the plan right now is to wrap the Bronco in Avery Colorflow Satin Urban Jungle. I think it's going to look pretty tight.

I checked that out. Pretty sweet. Really sweet, actually. Please share pics when you do it!

 

[Slyder]

I'd like to know more about both products and am going to do some research for sure.
I've talked about painting them in various threads and won't get into my usual overly-long talk about it here...but definitely going to research.
I need to find out about the UV resistance, means of application (is it spray can or can it be reduced/catalyst added as a crosslink and sprayed through an HVLP), etc.
The two products I have personally had the best luck with for colorfastness and UV holdout is
Kirker Hot Rod black Single stage and Raptor brand liner.

Some of the other blacks (single stage) on the market I will not use due to the simple fact my test panels and pieces have shown little-to-none UV holdout and chalk up, turning a very unsightly grey within a year.
The worst performing one was off-the-shelf Rustoleum satin black. I tried it on a test panel (old truck bedside) due to multiple customer requests to "simply use the cheap stuff off the shelf at Lowes".
It looked pretty good right after spraying. Within 4 months it was dull and lifeless. Within 6 months it was grey-black. 6 months later it was just grey and streaky.
It was a good visual way to show them you get what you pay for usually in paint products.
Most of the time.
Tamco makes some really good UV resistant products I am dabbling in now.

I know Colorbond is UV stable and I've heard of people using it on vinyl siding trim on their homes, but as far as long term fading/chalking, I'm not really sure. I used it to spray a dash and some interior parts on a vehicle and it still looked good after 4 years, but I sold the vehicle and moved on to another project. I used their trim (flat version) black to refinish one of those black cowl covers that had faded, for a friend, but they sold the car about 6 months after I did that.

I know SEM is tint-able, can be sprayed using HVLP guns and is fairly UV stable, but I used it mostly on the flat painted door trim/mirrors, when I was using it.

There may be others who've used SEM and can attest to it's UV stability, but I've mostly used Colorbond and on interior panels. I'll admit I had almost completely forgotten about them until a former co-worker & friend, I re-connected with, 're-jogged' my memory when the subject of Bronco interior colors came up.

I really have no intention of doing anything to the MiC top right away, especially on a vehicle costing $45k+, but I have no qualms about doing the interior, especially if I stay the Wildtrak route. (I like the RTR Bronco and am pursuing it for '22, but don't know if it'll be locked to certain trims/models)

I've been reading up on Tamco products, but I own a condo and it has a shared garage, so I don't have much freedom to experiment/test as I'd like. I can 'bribe' friends/co-workers to borrow their garage now and then, but that isn't always possible, sadly.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Look for the symbol when you see one

 

[Auto Paint]

Thermoset plastics aren't any big deal to paint if you use the right products.

The abbreviated version to a quality long term finish on thermosets is:

Pre clean and dry with an appropriate wax and grease remover.

Sand with the correct grit for the primer you are using.

Clean and dry again with the correct wax and grease remover.

Very important: Use a known quality adhesion promoter per their instructions.

Apply two coats of epoxy primer.

Top coat accordingly over the epoxy primer whether you use a single stage or a base / clear system.

Or you can use an $18 aerosol can on your $50K new ride and hope for the best.

 

[Jr87mustang]

Hey @Ksjrb03 maybe now that there is a newish thread on this you can explain the top color has not changed. Again.

 

[Brocked]

Thermoset plastics aren't any big deal to paint if you use the right products.

The abbreviated version to a quality long term finish on thermosets is:

Pre clean and dry with an appropriate wax and grease remover.

Sand with the correct grit for the primer you are using.

Clean and dry again with the correct wax and grease remover.

Very important: Use a known quality adhesion promoter per their instructions.

Apply two coats of epoxy primer.

Top coat accordingly over the epoxy primer whether you use a single stage or a base / clear system.

Or you can use an $18 aerosol can on your $50K new ride and hope for the best.

What do you think it would cost for the 4 door Mic to be painted black, the correct way, by a professional?

 

[Ksjrb03]

Hey @Ksjrb03 maybe now that there is a newish thread on this you can explain the top color has not changed. Again.

Sure, not that anyone will listen. The top color that Ford calls carbonized gray was finalized two years ago, and the formula has not changed. I think I’ve been here long enough to see that people started to think it got darker once the available photos swapped from factory bright lights to outdoor real world shots. There was also a tooling change around the same time, it’s very obvious to see when you look at old pics and new pics. The seams for the rear shell changed. I think the tooling on the mold changed at that time to a less textured finish. The tooling on the mold can dramatically change the way light reflects, and change the appearance some what. But rest assured the color of the plastic used in the outer shell has not changed.

We do not make the material for the inner structural shell so I’m not exactly sure what it’s made of. The outer shell is polyacetal, or POM in the business, a very common automotive thermoplastic. I have no idea how it will take paint, that’s not my department.

 

[ZackDanger]

Sure, not that anyone will listen. The top color that Ford calls carbonized gray was finalized two years ago, and the formula has not changed. I think I’ve been here long enough to see that people started to think it got darker once the available photos swapped from factory bright lights to outdoor real world shots. There was also a tooling change around the same time, it’s very obvious to see when you look at old pics and new pics. The seams for the rear shell changed. I think the tooling on the mold changed at that time to a less textured finish. The tooling on the mold can dramatically change the way light reflects, and change the appearance some what. But rest assured the color of the plastic used in the outer shell has not changed.

We do not make the material for the inner structural shell so I’m not exactly sure what it’s made of. The outer shell is polyacetal, or POM in the business, a very common automotive thermoplastic. I have no idea how it will take paint, that’s not my department.

This is really good info.

I think BN hasn’t been helping.

 

[Ksjrb03]

This is really good info.

I think BN hasn’t been helping.

Looks like the same color to me, but my color matching certification test is done under 3500k lights and not photos lol. That’s the tooling change though thanks for finding that.

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