Welcome @AllFordTech Kyle, my question is what is your opinion on the 10R60 10sp Auto? we initially thought it was going to be the 10R80. Can the 10R60 handle some additional Hp & Torque?
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What is your change interval opinion on good full synthetic oils, like Amsoil Signature Series, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?Hello Kyle,
My best advice that I give is really just keep the rpms under 3500 for the first 500 miles. Not a bad idea to get an oil change done around 1000 miles just to clean out any residual metal from manufacturing that may have got caught inside. After that I recommend oil changes every 5k miles and no more than that. I see too many vehicles come in that go 10k. because that’s what the book say last and end up going 12-15k and the oil that comes out is not good.
Welcome Kyle @AllFordTech , speaking of sway bar disconnects. For my OCD purposes do you think that I can just order the full six button hero switch assembly from a Badlands and put it in my Wildtrak? Don't need the sway bar disconnect to actually engage, just want the cosmetics of the button to light up, and for the other five buttons to work normally.I do believe getting a extended warranty is a wise idea for anyone who owns any brand vehicle. Vehicles now a days have so many moving parts and electronics even the simplest of fixes could cost over $500. I recommend getting an extended contract right before the original warranty is about to expire.
I will be honest, Fords oil and Filters are some of the best on the market. In my 15+ years I have never seen a failed filter. Of you want to go aftermarket. AMS oil is the way to go. I recommend to all my customers 5k-7.5k max on oil change intervals. Oil changes are the cheapest insurance you can buy.
I do not believe swapping a sway bar disconnect will be an easy task. Wiring harnesses and modules will need replacing along with some programming.
There are a couple of good threads on the subject in the forum. Flip (also a Ford dealership guy) has documented the process with some good modifications that use available factory wiring and plugs for some of the wiring as well. It is definitely not plug and play and took me about 3hrs. It is a pwm system, so there will probably not be a factory “plug in” harness like many of my past vehicle installs. The hitch itself requires removal of the bumper, but the process is pretty quick. Maybe 45 minutes to an hour for me (non tech, on my back in the driveway).Great questions,
I would actually have to do a little research on both of your questions. Typically a dealer installed trailer hitch needs to be wired up to some extent. Some have a pigtail harness that needs to be wired in and some need to run wires front to back. Also I would need to look into your lighting question. It’s very possible there are different wiring harnesses due to the difference in the lights but I am not 100% sure at the moment.
As long as the hose is supplying beer, I’m good with it!Welcome Kyle. Thank you for volunteering to drink from the fire hose.
What do you think of catch cans JK .....I think you've covered it
If you go full synthetic, 7.5k is the max I would go. Reason being like I’ve said before, if you wait until 10k sometimes you get lazy and it gets stretched to 12k and beyond. Also if your going that long on the oil, it’s probably been in the motor for 12 months or so and to me that’s a lot of key cycles, start ups and climate change depending on where you liveWhat is your change interval opinion on good full synthetic oils, like Amsoil Signature Series, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?
Thank you for the input and help!There are a couple of good threads on the subject in the forum. Flip (also a Ford dealership guy) has documented the process with some good modifications that use available factory wiring and plugs for some of the wiring as well. It is definitely not plug and play and took me about 3hrs. It is a pwm system, so there will probably not be a factory “plug in” harness like many of my past vehicle installs. The hitch itself requires removal of the bumper, but the process is pretty quick. Maybe 45 minutes to an hour for me (non tech, on my back in the driveway).
He’s a mechanic at a local dealership, not an all knowing Oracle that can predict future events.When will the replacement MIC tops be in? My Wildtrac is built and sitting waiting for the replacement.
Yes there is a option for the Public an it is called ForScan. It has most if not all the capabilities of the FDRD scan tool we use at Ford. It does take a little more work because some programming needs to be manually entered. Check out ForScan.orgDo you know if there is a publicly available option for FDRS or an alternative to FDRS??
Some of the accessories—such as the sound bar—could easily be customer installed. But the last step requires FDRS to reprogram the control module.
With so much of the vehicle these days run by a computer, really limits what customers can do to their own vehicle without the software—very frustrating.
He’s a mechanic at a local dealership, not an all knowing Oracle that can predict future events.
Hello, Unfortunately I do not know when they will be in. It has been very frustrating this last year plus with all of the unknowns.When will the replacement MIC tops be in? My Wildtrac is built and sitting waiting for the replacement.
My question is HOW to do the recalibration? I just drove around with my F150 having the wrong speedometer numbers. I prefer not to do that with my Bronco, if possible.Kyle,
Do I have to have my speedometer recalibrated if I install 35s on a stock Badlands 4 door?
I've never had a turbo charged vehicle, so I'm just wondering if this would impact the warranty at all that you know of?Catch cans are always a good option for turbo charged vehicles. I do Super Charger installs on Mustangs and F150 and 9/10 times the customer ops for the catch can. It’s a nice little added insurance and definitely helps with prolonging engine wear and tear.
If you are looking for the best protection, performance and durability, nothing beats a full synthetic oil. It is going to help immensely on 10k+ oil change intervals being as 10k miles could be roughly a year or so worth of driving for most people. So the amount of start ups, especially with the stop/start system and the climate changes over the course of a year, a full synthetic oil is the best. Now if you want my opinion on oil change intervals, I highly recommend 5-7.5k. Simply it’s the cheapest insurance money can buy.Full synthetic or blend? And why?
Thank you.