just want to add if not stated. The 2.3 Ford Power Pack is $825.00 MSRP so 2.3 + power pack = 2.7 if your trying to save money for other things. I will decide at B&P what works best at some point there has to be a budget LOL.
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Have you ever turned an axle into what looks like an old barber pole or blown up a differential transfer case tranny? I've done all of the above but with modern electronics and cpu control not likely to happen saving big$$$. Not only do they save money they also apply power to the ground more efficiently allowing one to get from point A to B without incident or having to go out in the mud snow ice and lock hubs. Once you break tracktion you are done and have to go back and take another shot at the hill hole rocks etc. With the electronics you make it the first time saving time energy and $$. Yes, its fun to rev the souped up engine past redline and pop the clutch done that lots of times but it can be very expensive when things start comeing apart.So you are saying that on the 10spd they add a whole bunch of extra controls to try to mimic what I just do naturally. Sounds like something I dont really want to bury in a mud hole. These already have alot of electronics doing alot of important things, and alot of nonsense aswell. But to take the load off of my Bronco I will do the shifting so its computer has less to worry about. Im also very curious what about the computer shifting is so much more efficient. Will I get 5mpg more or will the added efficiency mostly just make up added weight and the power required to turn that pump? What happens when I'm doing burnouts in the auto will the computer light up and threaten to cut the power if I dont shift. Honestly though I have never cared for anything that makes driving any easier. I find that taming the beast is much more enjoyable even for boring commutes, it brings life to the day, to the drive. Why do people offroad in 4x4s, they can get to many more places just hiking? Why ride a motorcycle when a sedan is easier? Why do people build races cars? There is more to life than easy street.
I honestly think you will be fine. Get a catch can installed and you are good. I know the OBX trim has a charge for the 2.7 and 10sp. There is a thread already titled (OBX ripoff or something similar). There are some that think the OBX charges are correct and every trim with similar options is incorrect. And there are some that think the OBX is the outlier with incorrect pricing. The dealer order guides will have a clear answer. In the meantime, hopefully B/P is updated to reflect correct pricing. As a hedge, you might want to price out similar builds one with a 2.3 and one with a 2.7. This way when it comes time to order, you might be pleasantly surprised to find the OBX pricing corrected. If the 2.7 is corrected to a $300 upcharge, then it is a no-brainer.so the question comes back, after all my research w the Outer Banks, 10 spd auto,, is the 2.3L good enough for what i need it for, driving around philly and the jersey shore, take off road in jersey maybe once or twice... if we like it could be a regular thing though.. the savings is $1895, kind of steep, im gettin the 10 yr 100k warranty from ford anyway, so im looking for long term reliability...
thoughts???
thanks for the feed back.. my thinking is that if the price doesn't change I think im staying w the 4cyc.. that 2k is alot. my question is.. will that 4 cyc get me 10yr 100k w Changing oil every 5k miles... I have firestone do oil change...tire rotation.. tire balance & alignment...I honestly think you will be fine. Get a catch can installed and you are good. I know the OBX trim has a charge for the 2.7 and 10sp. There is a thread already titled (OBX ripoff or something similar). There are some that think the OBX charges are correct and every trim with similar options is incorrect. And there are some that think the OBX is the outlier with incorrect pricing. The dealer order guides will have a clear answer. In the meantime, hopefully B/P is updated to reflect correct pricing. As a hedge, you might want to price out similar builds one with a 2.3 and one with a 2.7. This way when it comes time to order, you might be pleasantly surprised to find the OBX pricing corrected. If the 2.7 is corrected to a $300 upcharge, then it is a no-brainer.
I really wouldn't worry about it. I've always had v6s except for my first car in HS. I have a 3.6L v6 in my Jeep and the 2.3 produces more HP and torque. For me, it is a mental hurdle of relying on a 4 banger. But when looking at it objectively, it is a solid engine that will get me wherever I want to go. If the current pricing holds on the OBX, stick with the 2.3. The catch can recommendation is more of a preventive maintenance to prevent carbon buildup.thanks for the feed back.. my thinking is that if the price doesn't change I think im staying w the 4cyc.. that 2k is alot. my question is.. will that 4 cyc get me 10yr 100k w Changing oil every 5k miles... I have firestone do oil change...tire rotation.. tire balance & alignment...
I test drove a 21 4DR Jeep Rubicon yesterday with a 2 inch lift on 37 inch tires.thanks for the feed back.. my thinking is that if the price doesn't change I think im staying w the 4cyc.. that 2k is alot. my question is.. will that 4 cyc get me 10yr 100k w Changing oil every 5k miles... I have firestone do oil change...tire rotation.. tire balance & alignment...
Reliable daily driver? Whats your definition of reliable? Ultimate reliability? 2.3L 7spd manual. And reason I say this? ( hoping the 2.3 is as reliable as the 2.7 enginewise) Transmission. A manual is ALWAYS more reliable. Less moving parts the better. Slush box has only so many miles before rebuilt or replaced. A manual? Clutch and synchros. but you can replace them easier and cheaper and stay trucking.Is there one engine that is hands down the better buy for just being a reliable daily driver?
2.3 you have to add a catch can?
2.7 has a plastic oil pan?
will the 2.3 have turbo lag, or is that an issue of 15 urs ago?
Reliable like owning a Toyota, Honda, Mazda, Kia or Hyundai. 20,000+ miles a year, interstate commuting.Reliable daily driver? Whats your definition of reliable? Ultimate reliability? 2.3L 7spd manual. And reason I say this? ( hoping the 2.3 is as reliable as the 2.7 enginewise) Transmission. A manual is ALWAYS more reliable. Less moving parts the better. Slush box has only so many miles before rebuilt or replaced. A manual? Clutch and synchros. but you can replace them easier and cheaper and stay trucking.
Reliable like owning a Toyota, Honda, Mazda, Kia or Hyundai. 20,000+ miles a year, interstate commuting.
it would be nice if an”american” brand would offer such reliability.
another description of reliability is not being left stranded.