2023MY Standard Audio (6-speaker) Subwoofer Delete Mandatory and Functional Amps Removed

[Madeitthisfar]

Where can I find one of these amps? (I barely know anything about audio)

Thanks in advance!

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[ILoveToDrive]

The Fusion amp:
https://teamequip.com/fomoco-fp5t-1...und-system-amplifier-for-ford-fusion-t163700/

 

[gaaangs]

Is the fusion amp/Kickr 6.75 an improvement over the stock 7 speaker option? I have an opportunity to buy an available OEM sub/amp, but want the better of the 2 solutions

The Kicker sub is by far better than the stock sub option. The fusion amp is basically the same as the OEM amp.

I'd keep the OEM amp and just swap out the sub.

 

[Szarko]

Thanks to @JimV for being the guinea pig and laying the groundwork.
Today I took my time and replaced the dummy items with the Ford Fusion Amp and the Kicker CompRT 6 3/4 subwoofer.
I wanted to try and utilize the old ring and gasket so I cut the old speaker apart which allowed me to use the gasket ring. After it was mounted I was able to put 4 screws on the sub ring through the metal ring of the old speaker then into the sub enclosure. It is beyond tight with no rattles. I did have to extend 2 of the 4 speaker wires.
I also replaced the factory pods with the SSV pods & 6 1/2 Kicker CS series Coaxial Speakers.
After the install I used Forscan to change it to the 7 speaker system and send full power to the upgraded pods.
Thanks to this thread I felt comfortable attempting this. It sounds like a different system, money and time well spent.

 

[gaaangs]

Solid write up ^

I finished up mine last night too - shout out @JimV for all the help and everyones input in this thread.

I did the Kicker RT67 as well. The process wasn't too bad and it fits really well.

The added Kicker sub definetly helps and my system sounds pretty damn good now...but I will say, I wish I had more bass. I get its only a 6 inch sub, but I feel myself wanting more. Getting a bigger sub and replacing the amp could be a project for later down the road.

All of this car audio stuff is completely new to me so I feel pretty proud of myself adding all new speakers, Kicker Key amp, and the additional sub and amp in the rear. As well as using forescan for the first time. It was pretty damn fun, too. Again, thanks everyone for the help!

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Solid write up ^

I finished up mine last night too - shout out @JimV for all the help and everyones input in this thread.

I did the Kicker RT67 as well. The process wasn't too bad and it fits really well.

The added Kicker sub definetly helps and my system sounds pretty damn good now...but I will say, I wish I had more bass. I get its only a 6 inch sub, but I feel myself wanting more. Getting a bigger sub and replacing the amp could be a project for later down the road.

All of this car audio stuff is completely new to me so I feel pretty proud of myself adding all new speakers, Kicker Key amp, and the additional sub and amp in the rear. As well as using forescan for the first time. It was pretty damn fun, too. Again, thanks everyone for the help!

Congrats! I imagine the hardest part of the sub install is pulling out the side and floor cargo panels. Any things to look out for in terms of possibly breaking tabs? Also, would you suggest using rubber washers when securing the sub to the enclosure to eliminate possible rattles?
How did you address the Forscan piece? I'm debating whether to tacle this myself (sub only-fusion amp and kicker 6.75) or hand it over to an installer.

 

[gaaangs]

Congrats! I imagine the hardest part of the sub install is pulling out the side and floor cargo panels. Any things to look out for in terms of possibly breaking tabs? Also, would you suggest using rubber washers when securing the sub to the enclosure to eliminate possible rattles?
How did you address the Forscan piece? I'm debating whether to tacle this myself (sub only-fusion amp and kicker 6.75) or hand it over to an installer.

If I can do it, so can you.

Removing the trim and reinstalling it was probably the hardest part, honestly...but even that wasn't terrible. Below is a great video on how to remove the trim in the back:

BRONCO BADLANDS GETS INTERIOR REMOVED IN THE NAME OF SCIENCE & DYNAMAT - YouTube

I did not use rubber washers, but I bought some boom mat and lined a ring around where I was going to screw and screwed through the boom mat. Basically did the same thing rubber washers would have done - created a nice anti vibration seal. No rattles.

Forescan was a little intimidating at first, but I watched another good video on it linked below and it was pretty simple. I bought this cable from Amazon and it worked out great:

Amazon.com: OHP ELMconfig FORS+can OBD2 USB Cable | Full ELM327 Diagnostic Programming Tool | Ford Mazda since 1996 | Windows Only : Automotive

How To Use FORScan (Instructional) - YouTube

Any other questions let me know.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

I haven't been able to find a video walking through the panel removal requirements specific to doing the sub/amp swap. Should I just follow this one, or is there anything better?

 

[ILoveToDrive]

I haven't been able to find a video walking through the panel removal requirements specific to doing the sub/amp swap. Should I just follow this one, or is there anything better?

Also, does the floor panel have to come out to remove the right side rear panel?

 

[gaaangs]

Also, does the floor panel have to come out to remove the right side rear panel?

Yes but the floor panel is really simple to remove. The side panel is the one that can be a bit of a fuss.

 

[Szarko]

Also, does the floor panel have to come out to remove the right side rear panel?

This is the video that I used from “Overlanding 4 fun”



This is how I tackled it.

•Yes, the floor comes out first. The 4 caps/covers then the 8 bolts.
•The rear door sill plate.
•Fold the seat’s forward and remove the trim piece between the seats and the rear floor. Then you can start on the side panel.

While in Forscan I took advantage of the opportunity and removed the double horn honk and made the remote panic switch activation require two pushes instead of one.

 

[Leatherman]

After the install I used Forscan to change it to the 7 speaker system and send full power to the upgraded pods.

Did you also do the same Forscan changes as JimV, to power the sub and get more power to the pods or did you make other changes too?
727-01-01: xxxx-x6xx-xxxx

I wonder if you could also change to
727-01-01: xx00-x6xx-xxxx
to boost the over all output as other threads have mentioned.

 

[gaaangs]

Did you also do the same Forscan changes as JimV, to power the sub and get more power to the pods or did you make other changes too?
727-01-01: xxxx-x6xx-xxxx

I wonder if you could also change to
727-01-01: xx00-x6xx-xxxx
to boost the over all output as other threads have mentioned.

This is a good question. Does JimVs forescan change mentioned above increase power to the pods as well? Or does it just "activate" power to the sub? I haven't noticed aditional power to my pods or full range, but I havent really been paying attention to them...

 

[Szarko]

This is a good question. Does JimVs forescan change mentioned above increase power to the pods as well? Or does it just "activate" power to the sub? I haven't noticed aditional power to my pods or full range, but I havent really been paying attention to them...

Since I upgraded the rear pods I sent full power to them. I would not recommend doing that to stock pods.

On the chart anything listed as 7 speaker sends power to the sub so pick your configuration

This is the list and value I used for that. Then I put the Equalizer to flat on line 727-01-02

Values posted to the Forscan document by Ragnarkon

 

[gaaangs]

Since I upgraded the rear pods I sent full power to them. I would not recommend doing that to stock pods.

This is the list and value I used for that. Then I put the Equalizer to flat on line 727-01-02

I upgraded the pod speakers to 4 inch Kicker KS. Would you recommend sending full power to them and using a bass blocker? Or just leave it as is and it wouldnt be much different as it is now?

What does putting the equalizer flat do?

So, if I did want to send full power to the pods and have the sub activated, the final line for the 727-01-01 line would be 382B 1602 009A - correct?

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