2023MY Standard Audio (6-speaker) Subwoofer Delete Mandatory and Functional Amps Removed

[Alex Sector]

For anyone wondering. CCPK1 was nice enough to sell me his old OEM sub unit. I replaced my dummy unit with a working one. Did the ForScan change and it works super well. It actually adds quite a bit to the OEM stereo.

So now that we know for sure the ForScan settings gets signal to that harness, you can use it to feed a LOC or speaker level in on a subwoofer amp or get the ford fusion amp and add a working speaker (what I was planning to do before I got the OEM unit)

Do you know if it was the B&O or stock OEM unit? Does it matter? I have a take-off B&O unit I purchased from a member here before the stock sub was announced.

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[Pressurized]

It varies depending on source and genre. And th bass slider doesn't have much impact.

Might not be the answer you're after... But I suspect the plugnplay kit 11 version with the Key 200.4 for powering the "rest" of the system would give you level control on everything else allowing you to match the rest of the system to the sub output. Plus the tuning on the Key 200.4 is supposed to really balance the system out. Just a thought... As many of us will likely be on a similar path.

 

[OKST Bronco]

Huge thank you to @supernoles28 for hooking me up with his enclosure after I messed mine up cutting the 8” sub hole. End result turned out so much better than I expected.

View attachment 493325
This little 8” sub produces the perfect amount of bass and not a single rattle. Went a little crazy with the sound deadening but I think it made a noticeable difference…that is until you get to 50mph and the wind noise takes over.

Stoked to keep the oem look from the outside and no space lost.

also have a pioneer mini sub under the driver seat that I put in before this thread really took off. I can’t express how well the pioneer TS-WX010A absolutely nails string/cord instruments. Alternative/Folk/Country it knocks out of the park. The 8” sub picks up with Rap/Electronic/Drum Beats. The 8” sub and the hideaway pioneer sub both complement each other so well it’s awesome.

 

[gaaangs]

Huge thank you to @supernoles28 for hooking me up with his enclosure after I messed mine up cutting the 8” sub hole. End result turned out so much better than I expected.

View attachment 493325
This little 8” sub produces the perfect amount of bass and not a single rattle. Went a little crazy with the sound deadening but I think it made a noticeable difference…that is until you get to 50mph and the wind noise takes over.

Stoked to keep the oem look from the outside and no space lost.

also have a pioneer mini sub under the driver seat that I put in before this thread really took off. I can’t express how well the pioneer TS-WX010A absolutely nails string/cord instruments. Alternative/Folk/Country it knocks out of the park. The 8” sub picks up with Rap/Electronic/Drum Beats. The 8” sub and the hideaway pioneer sub both complement each other so well it’s awesome.

Looks good man - did you put sound deadning in the enclosure right behind the actual sub?

 

[Tony Badlands]

Huge thank you to @supernoles28 for hooking me up with his enclosure after I messed mine up cutting the 8” sub hole. End result turned out so much better than I expected.

View attachment 493325
This little 8” sub produces the perfect amount of bass and not a single rattle. Went a little crazy with the sound deadening but I think it made a noticeable difference…that is until you get to 50mph and the wind noise takes over.

Stoked to keep the oem look from the outside and no space lost.

also have a pioneer mini sub under the driver seat that I put in before this thread really took off. I can’t express how well the pioneer TS-WX010A absolutely nails string/cord instruments. Alternative/Folk/Country it knocks out of the park. The 8” sub picks up with Rap/Electronic/Drum Beats. The 8” sub and the hideaway pioneer sub both complement each other so well it’s awesome.

What thickness of sound deadening did you use and did you have any re-assembly issues?

 

[OKST Bronco]

What thickness of sound deadening did you use and did you have any re-assembly issues?

I used some left over dynamat ultra light first and thought it made an ok difference but then added some siless hybrid 3in1 200 mil all over. Definitely made it a tighter fit but the tighter fit helped knock out any rattles and road noise. The trunk floor has such a solid feel/sound to it now. I also added SOOMJI 20mm foam deadener to the inside of the sub enclosure and around the edges where the plastic walls might touch the box.

Everything fit back to normal just a little more snug in a good way. Nothing had to be forced back into place.
Also taped al the little plastic clips to negate potential rattles. Hope that helps!

 

[OKST Bronco]

Looks good man - did you put sound deadning in the enclosure right behind the actual sub?

Yes I put SOOMJI 20mm foam sound deadener all inside and the Siless 3in1 on a good portion of the outside of the box. Also put robber washers under any bolts.

 

[pilot_ims]

For anyone wondering. CCPK1 was nice enough to sell me his old OEM sub unit. I replaced my dummy unit with a working one. Did the ForScan change and it works super well. It actually adds quite a bit to the OEM stereo.

So now that we know for sure the ForScan settings gets signal to that harness, you can use it to feed a LOC or speaker level in on a subwoofer amp or get the ford fusion amp and add a working speaker (what I was planning to do before I got the OEM unit)

I apologize, this may be a dumb question. Complete noob when it comes to car audio. Is that amp next to the sub for the entire sound system or just to the sub itself? Was the wiring for the amp already there?

 

[OKST Bronco]

I apologize, this may be a dumb question. Complete noob when it comes to car audio. Is that amp next to the sub for the entire sound system or just to the sub itself? Was the wiring for the amp already there?

So the amp is from a 2017 tourus I think….It’s somewhere in this thread but it only powers that subwoofer. All wiring came with the bronco already installed. Since my bronco is a 23’ built on Dec 23rd it had everything wired back there but a dummy amp and dummy sub installed.

 

[pilot_ims]

So the amp is from a 2017 tourus I think….It’s somewhere in this thread but it only powers that subwoofer. All wiring came with the bronco already installed. Since my bronco is a 23’ built on Dec 23rd it had everything wired back there but a dummy amp and dummy sub installed.

Gotcha, I put an order in on 3/27 for a Wildtrak which comes with the mandatory speaker delete so I'm trying to figure it out ahead of time Thank you!

 

[OKST Bronco]

Gotcha, I put an order in on 3/27 for a Wildtrak which comes with the mandatory speaker delete so I'm trying to figure it out ahead of time Thank you!

Easiest would be order the ~ $60 amp and a 6 3/4” kicker sub if you don’t want to do too much cutting on the sub box. If you want the 8”, about 10-15 mins of work with a dremel tool is about all it takes. Overall a really easy mod if you take your time.

hopefully yours will come with the box and wire/harnesses. Hard to tell how many they will keep putting the subwoofer enclosures and dummy amp/sub in.

 

[gaaangs]

So I started this project and have a couple questions...

I got the Kicker 6.5 inch sub. Did you guys just screw it in to the original plastic housing? Did you use any kind of brackets or anything? Also, the harness when it goes into that channel doesn't seem to fit flush with the sub. Does that matter?

Also, the original Ford harness has those metal tips on the ends. Do I just strip those off, strip the wire down a bit, and insert the raw wire into the kicker sub? Sorry I'm a huge n00b. Just trying to do this right...

 

[SGXIX]

Ok. So I have succeeded using a Ford amp, an aftermarket sub, and FORScan. Please refer to my prior posts in this thread for additional detail. This post is specifically for those with a 2023 Bronco non-B&O sound system with a nonfunctional amp and sub.

My Bronco is a 4 door 2023 Badlands with a mid package and a non-functional amp and sub. As most have noted, the six-speaker sound system is horrible. My goal was to do the minimal amount possible and keep the factory look and feel. I didn't want to run extra wires, splice wires, etc., only using what was there and adding minimal effort to get a functioning amp and sub in the back to improve sound quality. I was not going after having the loudest or best-sounding system out there.

Tools Used:

• Plastic Trim Removal Tool Set
• Philips screwdriver (remove the nonfunctional amp from the stock sub enclosure
• Torx t20 (remove the sub from the enclosure)
• Router, and template to modify the sub enclosure (depending on speaker chosen, this may not be required)

Purchased Products:

• Dynamat Xtreme - Sound Dampening
• Dymamat Dynaliner - More sound dampening for the ambient noise with the cabinet
• A functioning non-B&O Ford Bronco sub amp from some upgrading on this forum (which at this point is very limited), or purchase this Ford Fusion amp -https://teamequip.com/fomoco-fp5t-1...und-system-amplifier-for-ford-fusion-t163700/. Both will work equally as well from my testing.
• Sub: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8; but if I were to redo this I would choose the Kicker 48CWRT672 - I'll explain further below; I know there are other subs other there that will work too; just watch the minimum watch, ohms (2ohm x 2ohm), and dual voice coil.

Software and OBD:

• Forscan version v2.3.51 https://forscan.org/download.html (got a trial license for two months)
• Windows 11 laptop to run ForScan with USB port for the Adapter
• OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter

Steps taken to get the Sub Installed and working:

1. Removed all back panels (floor, driver side, passenger side - where the sub is).
2. Sound Dampening - Installed Dynamat and Dynaliner in key areas to remove rattles, vibrations and such. I didnt wall paper it all over the back, but added just enough to help.
3. Removed the sub enclosure; Disconnecting the stock wiring harness from the non funcational amp and sub.
4. Removed the non functional amp and sub from the Bronco
5. Retrofit the sub enclosure cut-over diameter to fit the the 8" sub purchased (This is why I recommend the six inch Kicker, I do not believe any modification will be needed - so no cutting).
6. Installed installation tape on the sub enclousre to seal the 8" sub
7. Modified the stock sub speaker harness (not the stock amp harness); removing the sub terminal connecters. Then connected the sub to the modified sub harness.
8. Mounted the sub back into the enclosure ensuring it was sealed and wires were connected
9. Installed a functional Ford amp on the enclosure - no modding necessary
10. Reinstalled the sub enclosure in the cabin; connecting the existing / stock wiring harness.
11. Reinstalled all the panels.
12. **** Tested to ensure the Bronco was still happy **** Turned the car on ensured the sound system worked and no issues.
13. Took out the windows 11 laptop with FORScan installed and plugged in the OBX adapter. (keep in mind I had already requested a temporary license key for FORScan).
14. Connected the the OBX adapter to the Bronco, already having FORScan up and running on the latptop.
15. **** Connected to the Bronco and made a backup of the vehicle setting with FORScan *****
16. Loaded the ACM Module to modify 727-01-01:
17. Modified my as built from "382B 14F1 0098" changing only one character "4" to a "6"; I paused for a moment and noticed one other character changed as well automatically. I suspect this was the result of a checksum performed. The end result was my 727-01-01 line: "382B 16F1 009A"; Realize I only made the one character change "4 to 6" (14F1), but the "8" (0098)was changed automatically to "A".
18. I wrote the change via FORScan to the vehicle; then restarted the vehicle. ***Again I would brush up on how to use FORScan before attempting this. Its not hard, just precise - so take your time.
19. When I restarted the car, I noticed my stereo was now on AM. Also, all my settings for bass, mid and treble were set flat again. I believe this is part of the restart process.
20. I tested the sytems now, and the sub was completely functional. I played it for about 15 minutes, changing different sound settings. The bass was overwhelming so I had to turn that down.

Thats it! Ive tested it a few times now; turning the vehicle on and off, turning it up to the volume up to 25, and it works great! Actually its too loud now. Im leaving the Ford Fusion amp in and returned the other Bronco amp to the person that let me borrow it.

Lessoned Learned:

• Understand what FORScan does and how it works. I did not have any issues, but I can see how you can really cause issues rushing and not following steps. Don't just make changes and hope for the best. its precise.
• I would recommend the six inch kicker sub for the stock non-B&O enclosure as I expect you wont have to modify the sub existing enclosure much, its cheaper, and I alot of air movement from the 8" sub I installed in the stock enclosure (I didnt close the port). Finally (and this is a personal preference), The 8" inch sub is too much bass for me. I had to turn the bass way down.
• I still would upgrade the dash speakers to the Hertz 100.3. The kick panel and the rears, maybe. Currently, this project turned out better than expected.

Please see the pics below for my settings after the change.

Anyone can confirm if this works on standard package 2023 Basesquatch?

 

[ILoveToDrive]

I don’t see anything about the timing of this. I have a 2023 bronco base built (as of 12/6 according to tracker), and I’m wondering if mine will be one of the few to get the subwoofer before this mandatory delete is implemented.

I just got a ‘23 Badlands SAS with the High package…no subwoofer. The sticker gave a $250 credit. The build was March 3 2023.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Ok. So I have succeeded using a Ford amp, an aftermarket sub, and FORScan. Please refer to my prior posts in this thread for additional detail. This post is specifically for those with a 2023 Bronco non-B&O sound system with a nonfunctional amp and sub.

My Bronco is a 4 door 2023 Badlands with a mid package and a non-functional amp and sub. As most have noted, the six-speaker sound system is horrible. My goal was to do the minimal amount possible and keep the factory look and feel. I didn't want to run extra wires, splice wires, etc., only using what was there and adding minimal effort to get a functioning amp and sub in the back to improve sound quality. I was not going after having the loudest or best-sounding system out there.

Tools Used:

• Plastic Trim Removal Tool Set
• Philips screwdriver (remove the nonfunctional amp from the stock sub enclosure
• Torx t20 (remove the sub from the enclosure)
• Router, and template to modify the sub enclosure (depending on speaker chosen, this may not be required)

Purchased Products:

• Dynamat Xtreme - Sound Dampening
• Dymamat Dynaliner - More sound dampening for the ambient noise with the cabinet
• A functioning non-B&O Ford Bronco sub amp from some upgrading on this forum (which at this point is very limited), or purchase this Ford Fusion amp -https://teamequip.com/fomoco-fp5t-1...und-system-amplifier-for-ford-fusion-t163700/. Both will work equally as well from my testing.
• Sub: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8; but if I were to redo this I would choose the Kicker 48CWRT672 - I'll explain further below; I know there are other subs other there that will work too; just watch the minimum watch, ohms (2ohm x 2ohm), and dual voice coil.

Software and OBD:

• Forscan version v2.3.51 https://forscan.org/download.html (got a trial license for two months)
• Windows 11 laptop to run ForScan with USB port for the Adapter
• OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter

Steps taken to get the Sub Installed and working:

1. Removed all back panels (floor, driver side, passenger side - where the sub is).
2. Sound Dampening - Installed Dynamat and Dynaliner in key areas to remove rattles, vibrations and such. I didnt wall paper it all over the back, but added just enough to help.
3. Removed the sub enclosure; Disconnecting the stock wiring harness from the non funcational amp and sub.
4. Removed the non functional amp and sub from the Bronco
5. Retrofit the sub enclosure cut-over diameter to fit the the 8" sub purchased (This is why I recommend the six inch Kicker, I do not believe any modification will be needed - so no cutting).
6. Installed installation tape on the sub enclousre to seal the 8" sub
7. Modified the stock sub speaker harness (not the stock amp harness); removing the sub terminal connecters. Then connected the sub to the modified sub harness.
8. Mounted the sub back into the enclosure ensuring it was sealed and wires were connected
9. Installed a functional Ford amp on the enclosure - no modding necessary
10. Reinstalled the sub enclosure in the cabin; connecting the existing / stock wiring harness.
11. Reinstalled all the panels.
12. **** Tested to ensure the Bronco was still happy **** Turned the car on ensured the sound system worked and no issues.
13. Took out the windows 11 laptop with FORScan installed and plugged in the OBX adapter. (keep in mind I had already requested a temporary license key for FORScan).
14. Connected the the OBX adapter to the Bronco, already having FORScan up and running on the latptop.
15. **** Connected to the Bronco and made a backup of the vehicle setting with FORScan *****
16. Loaded the ACM Module to modify 727-01-01:
17. Modified my as built from "382B 14F1 0098" changing only one character "4" to a "6"; I paused for a moment and noticed one other character changed as well automatically. I suspect this was the result of a checksum performed. The end result was my 727-01-01 line: "382B 16F1 009A"; Realize I only made the one character change "4 to 6" (14F1), but the "8" (0098)was changed automatically to "A".
18. I wrote the change via FORScan to the vehicle; then restarted the vehicle. ***Again I would brush up on how to use FORScan before attempting this. Its not hard, just precise - so take your time.
19. When I restarted the car, I noticed my stereo was now on AM. Also, all my settings for bass, mid and treble were set flat again. I believe this is part of the restart process.
20. I tested the sytems now, and the sub was completely functional. I played it for about 15 minutes, changing different sound settings. The bass was overwhelming so I had to turn that down.

Thats it! Ive tested it a few times now; turning the vehicle on and off, turning it up to the volume up to 25, and it works great! Actually its too loud now. Im leaving the Ford Fusion amp in and returned the other Bronco amp to the person that let me borrow it.

Lessoned Learned:

• Understand what FORScan does and how it works. I did not have any issues, but I can see how you can really cause issues rushing and not following steps. Don't just make changes and hope for the best. its precise.
• I would recommend the six inch kicker sub for the stock non-B&O enclosure as I expect you wont have to modify the sub existing enclosure much, its cheaper, and I alot of air movement from the 8" sub I installed in the stock enclosure (I didnt close the port). Finally (and this is a personal preference), The 8" inch sub is too much bass for me. I had to turn the bass way down.
• I still would upgrade the dash speakers to the Hertz 100.3. The kick panel and the rears, maybe. Currently, this project turned out better than expected.

Please see the pics below for my settings after the change.

So what subwoofer choice will fit into the existing speaker box with ZERO modification that will work with the Fusion amp and the Forscan reprogramming? I’m looking for the answer to be based on the experience of an installation that has been completed. I’d like to avoid the “buy-return-buy” process. TIA for the help.

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