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Anthraces

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If you can guess my build by now:

Standard 4-door Badlands. I value creature comforts, features, and style BUT DEMAND the BEST fundamental hardware. I'm a 4-door because I'm a family man ;) I do not care for 35s because I know I don't need them - for now. The rest of Squatch is nearly worthless to me.
thatā€™s probably my build for the same reason. What transmission/engine are you planning or do you recommend?

I am seriously debating if I donā€™t add squatch to the BL to go MT/2.3....but then I tell myself, no you like to drive fast lol
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Gr8Hortoni

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thatā€™s probably my build for the same reason. What transmission/engine are you planning or do you recommend?

I am seriously debating if I donā€™t add squatch to the BL to go MT/2.3....but then I tell myself, no you like to drive fast lol
The 2.3/7mt isnā€™t going to be a slouch. Not as much tunability due to tq constraints, but I donā€™t think itā€™s going to be a turd. Lol
 

dejones64

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After 6 months on this forum I can see that there are lots of potentially new off-road enthusiasts looking to get into Broncos! This is exciting and itā€™ll be great to see the 4x4 community grow in general.

I also see lots of ā€œwhatā€™s this doā€, ā€œdo I need this or thatā€ type questions, so I thought I would lend my 2 cents on my general philosophy after having been heavy into off-roading the last ~15 years or so. With my below suggestions, I will assume that you may someday want to do some serious trails - not just gravel roads and an occasional mud rut.
  1. The number one thing I want to tell you is that I believe it as FAR more advantageous to pony up as much money as possible to purchase the stoutest factory driveline that you can get in your rig - if you even remotely think you may wheel aggressively. Iā€™m talking about making sure you spend your money on things that ARENā€™T easy to change or add on in the aftermarket / used market world.
    • The prime example of this would be axles. If you think you will someday want to run 35ā€+ tires, do everything within your power to get the M210 axles. An example of this in the Jeep world would be the Dana 35 axles - which are a serious drawback when one wants to get serious about wheeling. Especially with lockers.
  2. Which brings me to my next point - lockers! The #1 single biggest improvement I made to my ā€˜79 Bronco was adding a rear Detroit-style locker. Itā€™s simply AMAZING what happens when you get all tires turning in all conditions. Therefore - I HIGHLY recommend putting down the cash for lockers. Lockers are both difficult and expensive to add aftermarket. Adding a front locker also takes you to a whole other level.
  3. Sway-bar disconnect. You NEED a sway-bar disconnect. You do NOT need the fancy-pants electronic disconnect Bronco offers as there will be aftermarket versions available cheap, but you cannot underestimate the value of this extra articulation. Adding an aftermarket version will likely be a nice intro to DIY vehicle modifications. Disconnects I think will be even more important with the Bronco due to the already lesser articulation compared to a solid front axle.
  4. MINIMIZE any lift that you add. Itā€™s amazing how much fun you can have on a small lift and 35ā€ tires. You likely do not need >2in of lift in this Bronco to keep you happy and entertained for a LONG time. Honestly, I would recommend stock Badlands height and no lift for as long as possible. The primary reason for this is keeping your center of gravity as low as possible. High CGs equate to bad off-road handling. Good driving skills overcome lack of lift in many situations.
  5. You do NOT NEED BEADLOCKS! I regularly run 12psi in the rear, and 15psi in the front. This is plenty low to get adequate deformation of the tire (see above picture). I have only had 1 problem with unseating a bead, which was due to winch operator error (I winched myself sideways when it wasn't necessary). Until you're doing expert level stuff, save your money for those lockers ;)
In summary - Iā€™m part of a Jeep Club and I CONSTANTLY see people buying expensive D44 crate axles, paying for lockers with install labor, etc., and generally speaking they always wish they would have just bought a Rubicon to begin with. It can eliminate a lot of headache if youā€™re think you might get serious. Starting with the best available hardware to begin with has a lot of advantages.

IMPORTANT CONTRIBUTIONS FROM OTHER MEMBERS (Paraphrased)
  1. Trail Etiquette @Ramble_Offroad
    1. Never go wheeling alone
    2. Stay on designated routes
    3. Always pick up your trash
    4. Tread lightly
    5. Don't be an asshole
    6. Pay it forward
    7. Leave it better than you found it
    8. https://staythetrail.org/
  2. Wheeling Advice @Ramble_Offroad
    1. Too much throttle + hopping = broken shit
  3. Gear advice @Ramble_Offroad @Gr8Hortoni
    • Tire puncture repair kit & air compressor = gold
      • Great way to pick up 4x4 chicks err I mean friends
    • LOCKERS BEFORE LIGHTBARS!!!
      • When the rubber meats the road, ONLY functionality matters.

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StrikeRavine3.jpg

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Nice writeup, thanks, very helpful.

Where'd you go wheelin in these pics?
 

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Blksn955.o

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Awesome thread.

My contribution would be the below.

Always have a bag that contains gloves, tow rope (in college we bought used ocean going docking and tow ropes super cheap on ebay...you will rip a frame in half before they break), a strap for going around trees, and at least a manual come along.

A first aid kit...nothing fancy.

A blanket...girls love them and so do you.

Toilet paper...for real keep at least one full rollin a plastic bag.
 

Pepperenavich

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I agree, I have brought this up recently in a different thread. Doesn't make sense to me to get a standard optioned WT when you can put the same options on a BB for almost 2K less.
 
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vrewald14

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thatā€™s probably my build for the same reason. What transmission/engine are you planning or do you recommend?

I am seriously debating if I donā€™t add squatch to the BL to go MT/2.3....but then I tell myself, no you like to drive fast lol
I'm planning on the MT/2.3 - because "we are a manual family". I don't know how else to describe it. Just love the row your own. I don't need to do burnouts in my Bronco. In fact - the 2.3l will have SIGNIFICANTLY more power than my built '79 V8 Bronco. Also, why not save several thousand dollars and apply it to the Lux package? For example.

My wife had a manual Camry in college, we have a manual Camry now, and my kids will drive manuals. Or they won't drive lol :ROFLMAO:

A point about manual transmissions being used in off-road vehicles. People will scoff and say "why would you do that? Automatics are so much easier!" I don't disagree - but I also say if it were easy, everyone would do it. Also, the crawler gear addition in the 7MT will really alleviate a lot of the difficulty. Sometimes people just prefer to do things different from everyone else, and that is a good thing, even when it's the "hard way".
 
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vrewald14

vrewald14

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The 2.3/7mt isnā€™t going to be a slouch. Not as much tunability due to tq constraints, but I donā€™t think itā€™s going to be a turd. Lol
I have driven the 2.3/10sp Ranger. Definitely NOT a turd. Plenty get-up and go.
 
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vrewald14

vrewald14

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Nice writeup, thanks, very helpful.

Where'd you go wheelin in these pics?
I went back and added notes to the pics - should have done that! Thanks!

MIOBI (Make It Or Break It) - Knoxville, IA (Privately owned park)
Strike Ravine - Moab, UT
Iron Range - Gilbert, MN (Public DNR run park)
 

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My constant qoute here is always( if you're new to offroading)....you'd be amazed how far 33's and open diffs can take you.

A Badlands on 33's would be probably the consumate "work and play" rig. The driveline is fantastic, but I have issues with the rest of the amenities vs price. My favorite rig right now ....FOR ME .... is the BaseSquatch. The value is awesome for what you're getting.
If it could only tow...
 

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dejones64

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I went back and added notes to the pics - should have done that! Thanks!

MIOBI (Make It Or Break It) - Knoxville, IA (Privately owned park)
Strike Ravine - Moab, UT
Iron Range - Gilbert, MN (Public DNR run park)
Cool thanks! I wondered if any of those were in IA. I've been to the Knoxville Nationals sprint races.

Plan on checking out the park in Gilbert, but I'll stick with the easy trails as I am a beginner.

Thanks.
 

IDyeti

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More emphasis on ethics, keep things open as I never want to pay to go wheeling unless I am at KOH.

From Tread Lightly.

QUICK TIPS FOR RESPONSIBLE FOUR WHEELING
Treads.png

Minimize your impact by traveling only in areas open to four-wheel drive vehicles. Learn more about our RIDE ON campaign.
Every true 4WD enthusiast should know the basics of minimizing impact in the great outdoors. Below are some great tips using the TREAD principles.
TRAVEL RESPONSIBLY
Travel responsibly on designated roads, trails or areas.
  • Travel only in areas open to four-wheel drive vehicles.
  • For your safety, travel straight up or down hills.
  • Drive over, not around obstacles to avoid widening the trail.
  • Straddle ruts, gullies and washouts even if they are wider than your vehicle.
  • Cross streams only at designated fording points, where the road crosses the stream.
  • When possible, avoid mud. In soft terrain, go easy on the gas to avoid wheel spin, which can cause rutting.
  • Donā€™t turn around on narrow roads, steep terrain or unstable ground. Back up until you find a safe place to turn around.
  • Stop frequently and scout ahead on foot. To help with traction, balance your load and lower tire pressure to where you see a bulge (typically not less than 20 pounds).
  • Know where the differential or the lowest point on your vehicle is. This will help in negotiating terrain and prevent vehicle damage resulting in oil and fluid spills on the trail.
  • Maintain a reasonable distance between vehicles.
  • Comply with all signs and respect barriers.
  • Travel with a group of two or more vehicles. Driving solo can leave you vulnerable if you have an accident or breakdown. Designate meeting areas in case of separation.
  • Choose the appropriate winch for your vehicle size.
  • Attach towing cable, tree strap, or chain as low as possible to the object being winched. Let the winch do the work; never drive the winch.
  • When winching always inspect your equipment, use the right winch for the situation, find a good secure anchor and never winch with less than five wraps of wire rope around the drum.
  • When using a tree as an anchor, use a wide tree strap to avoid damaging the trunk of the tree.
  • Donā€™t mix driving with alcohol or drugs.
RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF OTHERS
Respect the rights of others, including private property owners, all recreational trail users, campers and others so they can enjoy their recreational activities undisturbed.
  • Be considerate of others on the road or trail. Learn the basics of trail etiquette.
  • Leave gates as you find them. If crossing private property, be sure to ask permission from the landowner(s).
  • Yield the right of way to those passing you traveling uphill. Yield to mountain bikers, hikers and horses.
  • When encountering horses on the trail, move to the side of the trail, stop, turn off your engine, remove your helmet and speakā€”you want the horse to know you are human. Ask the rider the best way to proceed.
  • Proceed with caution around horses and pack animals. Sudden, unfamiliar activity may spook animalsā€”possibly causing injury to animals, handlers and others on the trail.
  • Do not idly ride around in camping, picnicking, trailhead or residential areas.
  • Keep speeds low around crowds and in camping areas.
  • Keep the noise and dust down.
EDUCATE YOURSELF
Educate yourself prior to your trip by obtaining travel maps and regulations from public agencies, planning for your trip, taking recreation skills classes and knowing how to operate your equipment safely.
  • Obtain a map, (motor vehicle use map where appropriate) of your destination and determine which areas are open to off-highway vehicles.
  • Make a realistic plan and stick to it. Always tell someone of your travel plans.
  • Contact the land manager for area restrictions, closures and permit requirements.
  • Check the weather forecast before you go. Prepare for the unexpected by packing necessary emergency items.
  • Buckle up! Seat belts are mandatory. Know your limitations. Watch your time, your fuel and your energy.
  • Take an off-highway drivers course to learn more about negotiating terrain in a four-wheel drive vehicle.
  • Make sure your vehicle is mechanically up to task. Be prepared with tools, supplies, spares and a spill kit for trailside repairs.
AVOID SENSITIVE AREAS
Avoid sensitive areas such as meadows, lake shores, wetlands and streams. Stay on designated routes.
  • Other sensitive habitats to avoid include living desert soils, tundra, and seasonal nesting or breeding areas.
  • Do not disturb historical, archeological or paleontological sites.
  • Avoid ā€œspookingā€ livestock and wildlife you encounter and keep your distance.
  • Motorized and mechanized vehicles are not allowed in designated Wilderness Areas. (What are Wilderness Areas?)
Pack out what you pack in and carry a trash bag on your vehicle to pick up litter left by others. Respected Access is Open Access
DO YOUR PART
Do your part by modeling appropriate behavior, leaving the area better than you found it, properly disposing of waste, minimizing the use of fire, avoiding the spread of invasive species and restoring degraded areas.
  • Carry a trash bag on your vehicle and pick up litter left by others.
  • Pack out what you pack in. Practice minimum impact camping by using established sites, camping 200 feet from water resources and trails.
  • Observe proper sanitary waste disposal or pack your waste out.
  • Protect the soundscape by preventing unnecessary noise created by a poorly tuned vehicle or revving your engine.
  • Before and after a ride, wash your vehicle to reduce the spread of invasive species.
  • Build a trail community. Get to know other types of recreationists that share your favorite trail.
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