All great advice.After 6 months on this forum I can see that there are lots of potentially new off-road enthusiasts looking to get into Broncos! This is exciting and itāll be great to see the 4x4 community grow in general.
I also see lots of āwhatās this doā, ādo I need this or thatā type questions, so I thought I would lend my 2 cents on my general philosophy after having been heavy into off-roading the last ~15 years or so. With my below suggestions, I will assume that you may someday want to do some serious trails - not just gravel roads and an occasional mud rut.
In summary - Iām part of a Jeep Club and I CONSTANTLY see people buying expensive D44 crate axles, paying for lockers with install labor, etc., and generally speaking they always wish they would have just bought a Rubicon to begin with. It can eliminate a lot of headache if youāre think you might get serious. Starting with the best available hardware to begin with has a lot of advantages.
- The number one thing I want to tell you is that I believe it as FAR more advantageous to pony up as much money as possible to purchase the stoutest factory driveline that you can get in your rig - if you even remotely think you may wheel aggressively. Iām talking about making sure you spend your money on things that ARENāT easy to change or add on in the aftermarket / used market world.
- The prime example of this would be axles. If you think you will someday want to run 35ā+ tires, do everything within your power to get the M210 axles. An example of this in the Jeep world would be the Dana 35 axles - which are a serious drawback when one wants to get serious about wheeling. Especially with lockers.
- Which brings me to my next point - lockers! The #1 single biggest improvement I made to my ā79 Bronco was adding a rear Detroit-style locker. Itās simply AMAZING what happens when you get all tires turning in all conditions. Therefore - I HIGHLY recommend putting down the cash for lockers. Lockers are both difficult and expensive to add aftermarket. Adding a front locker also takes you to a whole other level.
- Sway-bar disconnect. You NEED a sway-bar disconnect. You do NOT need the fancy-pants electronic disconnect Bronco offers as there will be aftermarket versions available cheap, but you cannot underestimate the value of this extra articulation. Adding an aftermarket version will likely be a nice intro to DIY vehicle modifications. Disconnects I think will be even more important with the Bronco due to the already lesser articulation compared to a solid front axle.
- MINIMIZE any lift that you add. Itās amazing how much fun you can have on a small lift and 35ā tires. You likely do not need >2in of lift in this Bronco to keep you happy and entertained for a LONG time. Honestly, I would recommend stock Badlands height and no lift for as long as possible. The primary reason for this is keeping your center of gravity as low as possible. High CGs equate to bad off-road handling. Good driving skills overcome lack of lift in many situations.
- You do NOT NEED BEADLOCKS! I regularly run 12psi in the rear, and 15psi in the front. This is plenty low to get adequate deformation of the tire (see above picture). I have only had 1 problem with unseating a bead, which was due to winch operator error (I winched myself sideways when it wasn't necessary). Until you're doing expert level stuff, save your money for those lockers
IMPORTANT CONTRIBUTIONS FROM OTHER MEMBERS (Paraphrased)
MIOBI (Make It Or Break It) - Knoxville, IA (private owned park)
- Trail Etiquette @Ramble_Offroad
- Never go wheeling alone
- Stay on designated routes
- Always pick up your trash
- Tread lightly
- Don't be an asshole
- Pay it forward
- Leave it better than you found it
- https://staythetrail.org/
- Wheeling Advice @Ramble_Offroad @Bronco @WillisCāonnors @BLTN
- Understand and stay within the limits of your equipment and skillset
- Be realistic
- Don't let anyone (especially cute girls/guys) talk you into exceeding your limits
- Too much throttle + hopping = broken shit
- Join a local club. They will have access to private wheeling ground you won't. Also a great deal of experienced people.
- Anticipate the effects of poor weather. A moderate trail can become nearly impassable after just a few minutes of rain/snow
- Gear advice @Ramble_Offroad @Gr8Hortoni @Blksn955.o
- You NEED a first aid kit. It can be simple.
- Tire puncture repair kit & air compressor = gold
- Great way to pick up 4x4 chicks err I mean friends
- LOCKERS BEFORE LIGHTBARS!!!
- When the rubber meats the road, ONLY functionality matters.
- A blanket - girls love them and so do you
- Roll of toilet paper. Definitely necessary - keep a full roll in a plastic bag. Leaves or a sacrificial sock are your alternative...
Strike Ravine - Moab, UT
Iron Range - Gilbert, MN (Public DNR run park)
Excellent thread .... i wish people like you had a HANG OUT Channel or something like that on this siteAfter 6 months on this forum I can see that there are lots of potentially new off-road enthusiasts looking to get into Broncos! This is exciting and itāll be great to see the 4x4 community grow in general.
I also see lots of āwhatās this doā, ādo I need this or thatā type questions, so I thought I would lend my 2 cents on my general philosophy after having been heavy into off-roading the last ~15 years or so. With my below suggestions, I will assume that you may someday want to do some serious trails - not just gravel roads and an occasional mud rut.
In summary - Iām part of a Jeep Club and I CONSTANTLY see people buying expensive D44 crate axles, paying for lockers with install labor, etc., and generally speaking they always wish they would have just bought a Rubicon to begin with. It can eliminate a lot of headache if youāre think you might get serious. Starting with the best available hardware to begin with has a lot of advantages.
- The number one thing I want to tell you is that I believe it as FAR more advantageous to pony up as much money as possible to purchase the stoutest factory driveline that you can get in your rig - if you even remotely think you may wheel aggressively. Iām talking about making sure you spend your money on things that ARENāT easy to change or add on in the aftermarket / used market world.
- The prime example of this would be axles. If you think you will someday want to run 35ā+ tires, do everything within your power to get the M210 axles. An example of this in the Jeep world would be the Dana 35 axles - which are a serious drawback when one wants to get serious about wheeling. Especially with lockers.
- Which brings me to my next point - lockers! The #1 single biggest improvement I made to my ā79 Bronco was adding a rear Detroit-style locker. Itās simply AMAZING what happens when you get all tires turning in all conditions. Therefore - I HIGHLY recommend putting down the cash for lockers. Lockers are both difficult and expensive to add aftermarket. Adding a front locker also takes you to a whole other level.
- Sway-bar disconnect. You NEED a sway-bar disconnect. You do NOT need the fancy-pants electronic disconnect Bronco offers as there will be aftermarket versions available cheap, but you cannot underestimate the value of this extra articulation. Adding an aftermarket version will likely be a nice intro to DIY vehicle modifications. Disconnects I think will be even more important with the Bronco due to the already lesser articulation compared to a solid front axle.
- MINIMIZE any lift that you add. Itās amazing how much fun you can have on a small lift and 35ā tires. You likely do not need >2in of lift in this Bronco to keep you happy and entertained for a LONG time. Honestly, I would recommend stock Badlands height and no lift for as long as possible. The primary reason for this is keeping your center of gravity as low as possible. High CGs equate to bad off-road handling. Good driving skills overcome lack of lift in many situations.
- You do NOT NEED BEADLOCKS! I regularly run 12psi in the rear, and 15psi in the front. This is plenty low to get adequate deformation of the tire (see above picture). I have only had 1 problem with unseating a bead, which was due to winch operator error (I winched myself sideways when it wasn't necessary). Until you're doing expert level stuff, save your money for those lockers
IMPORTANT CONTRIBUTIONS FROM OTHER MEMBERS (Paraphrased)
MIOBI (Make It Or Break It) - Knoxville, IA (private owned park)
- Trail Etiquette @Ramble_Offroad
- Never go wheeling alone
- Stay on designated routes
- Always pick up your trash
- Tread lightly
- Don't be an asshole
- Pay it forward
- Leave it better than you found it
- https://staythetrail.org/
- Wheeling Advice @Ramble_Offroad @Bronco @WillisCāonnors @BLTN
- Understand and stay within the limits of your equipment and skillset
- Be realistic
- Don't let anyone (especially cute girls/guys) talk you into exceeding your limits
- Too much throttle + hopping = broken shit
- Join a local club. They will have access to private wheeling ground you won't. Also a great deal of experienced people.
- Anticipate the effects of poor weather. A moderate trail can become nearly impassable after just a few minutes of rain/snow
- Gear advice @Ramble_Offroad @Gr8Hortoni @Blksn955.o
- You NEED a first aid kit. It can be simple.
- Tire puncture repair kit & air compressor = gold
- Great way to pick up 4x4 chicks err I mean friends
- LOCKERS BEFORE LIGHTBARS!!!
- When the rubber meats the road, ONLY functionality matters.
- A blanket - girls love them and so do you
- Roll of toilet paper. Definitely necessary - keep a full roll in a plastic bag. Leaves or a sacrificial sock are your alternative...
Strike Ravine - Moab, UT
Iron Range - Gilbert, MN (Public DNR run park)
I believe that similar models (Ranger) has a welded front gear (vs. bolted) that makes gearing or front locker changes somewhat more difficult/expensive. It is a dilemma, because I definitely want the HD axle, but I am sort of on the fence about the front locker or sway-bar disconnect. At the end of the day, its a pretty good deal to get it from the factory, as aftermarket axles, gears, lockers are generally a more expensive upgrade down the line. Things like bumpers, skid plates and even leveling kits or replacement shocks/struts are more affordable and accessible for those of us with basic mechanical skills.
1. Know where you are and file a trip plan with someone that knows where you are going, when you are expected back and how to contact you. Have the appropriate clothes/shoes to walk out. Dress for the worst possible outcome. Bring enough water for a full day being stuck. Even though it adds risk, I have often gone off road alone, including motorcycles and mountain bikes. I have a few personal horror stories of others who had really bad experiences and almost lost their lives riding alone, so I am aware of the risks and try to minimize them.
1) Let someone know where you're going marked on a map, a ton of self-recovery gear, food, water, clothes, first aid kit that doesn't suck, a sat tracker like a Spot or something. Plan for the worst. Are you familiar with job hazard assessments? Doing something similar before you head out is wise.
Ditto! As a Lady going solo on a lot of my trips I have to double up on all these things. I have a BOB that modifies for each excursion And some time all that preparing things still can go sideways! Such good information sharing here. Being prepared and knowing limits is great start.
Thanks for the original advice and this update. Confirms my choice of model and options.A stock 2-door Badlands does not need 35s. It is WAY capable the way it is. You will be AMAZED what you can do with it if you've never wheeled before. Once you wear out / outgrow the 33s, easy pain-free upgrade to 35s is likely.
I would take the Badlands discussion 1 step further with a discussion on the value of this trim. I view this from 2 different perspectives:
- Wheeler who values style and creature comforts = YOU NEED A BADLANDS!
- PERFECT rig. BEST hardware. BEST interior & exterior feature availability
- Wheeler who doesn't care so much about style and features = FORGET Badlands
- OVER RATED - you can get approximately equivalent hardware on the BaseSquatch/BlackSquatch for less
- IMO - a standard Badlands and a BaseSquatch have almost identical offroad capability. You will be able to go almost exactly the same places. The real world advantages of 35" tires and slight lift with Squatch will be nearly negligible on an identical trail with an experienced driver.
If you can guess my build by now:
Standard 4-door Badlands. I value creature comforts, features, and style BUT DEMAND the BEST fundamental hardware. I'm a 4-door because I'm a family manI do not care for 35s because I know I don't need them - for now. The rest of Squatch is nearly worthless to me.
I know more and more CBās are falling by the wayside in favor of GMRS/FRS radios, much better sound quality and range for an affordable price. It never hurts to have a cb as additional comma, but I would invest in a good GMRS unit.
I AGREE......IS THAT TIRE SIZE 34S????
