B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[kpecks]

Anyone have an extra 4" speaker from a B&O upgrade?? I need one 4" for the center channel, preferably a JL C1 or better!

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[JDerenzo]

late to the game. Question for the individuals that have used the kicker 500 and used the b&o subwoofer wires as high level outputs. how did you exactly wire it? It seems that the factory subwoofer is DVC, did you just use one pair?

 

[CatMonkey]

I spoke to Kicker - They told me to set the high pass to 25 or 30 and the low pass to 100 or more. I think these settings are best tuned by your ear…..

Here is a link to the sub harness select round sub and speaker wires.
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...r-amplifier-to-factory?variant=42875319714004

here are some pics of my sub

This is exactly what I was hoping to find. I have not popped a panel off the rear passenger cargo area, so I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how the rear sub is wired. The harness you got from SGS goes from the OEM wiring harness to your amp inputs, right? Where did the wires that came from the harness that's being replace go to, as wired from the factory? The DSP? Anything you or @Ksjrb03 can clarify will be greatly appreciated.

I've done all the speaker and rear pod upgrades without amplification, but the sub needs a little help. I got PNP's ACM-300.1 setup and harness, but this SGS harness looks like an easier tap point for the amp inputs. Just trying to get what I need, or think I need before starting. I've also ordered SQR Custom's sub box as opposed to modifying the stock sub box. Not sure the turn around time for it. Cargo area is precious to me, so I'm trying to prevent expanding the sound system footprint beyond the factory configuration.

Great write-up. Takes a long time to go through.

 

[Edsasso]

This is exactly what I was hoping to find. I have not popped a panel off the rear passenger cargo area, so I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how the rear sub is wired. The harness you got from SGS goes from the OEM wiring harness to your amp inputs, right? Where did the wires that came from the harness that's being replace go to, as wired from the factory? The DSP? Anything you or @Ksjrb03 can clarify will be greatly appreciated.

I've done all the speaker and rear pod upgrades without amplification, but the sub needs a little help. I got PNP's ACM-300.1 setup and harness, but this SGS harness looks like an easier tap point for the amp inputs. Just trying to get what I need, or think I need before starting. I've also ordered SQR Custom's sub box as opposed to modifying the stock sub box. Not sure the turn around time for it. Cargo area is precious to me, so I'm trying to prevent expanding the sound system footprint beyond the factory configuration.

Great write-up. Takes a long time to go through.

When you take it all apart, you will see. There is a rubber grommet with wires cast into the rubber pressed into the sub enclosure... Pull it apart and connect the harness. and run the new wires through the hole. SEAL THE HOLE. I taped up the hole and used some quick set epoxy to seal it, made a mess, but worked well.

 

[CatMonkey]

When you take it all apart, you will see. There is a rubber grommet with wires cast into the rubber pressed into the sub enclosure... Pull it apart and connect the harness. and run the new wires through the hole. SEAL THE HOLE. I taped up the hole and used some quick set epoxy to seal it, made a mess, but worked well.

I don't think we're on the same page, or I'm not understanding what that harness does. What and where are the OEM wires are you sending to your amp for the subwoofer signal?

 

[Edsasso]

I don't think we're on the same page, or I'm not understanding what that harness does. What and where are the OEM wires are you sending to your amp for the subwoofer signal?

The wires going to the sub effectively become your inputs for the amp. The harness I used took care of this. You wire the sub from the output on the amp.....

 

[CatMonkey]

The wires going to the sub effectively become your inputs for the amp. The harness I used took care of this. You wire the sub from the output on the amp.....

Let me break it down further, because I'm still not getting it. I may be confusing the matter with the SGS harness, because I'm beginning to think it's not what I thought it is. I'm trying to determine exactly, like the location, where the speaker level wires are coming out of the factory wiring harness that goes into the cargo area, and ultimately being routed into the amplifier input. Any wiring from the amp speaker output to the subwoofer is of no concern to me, because I won't be using the OEM sub box. Sounds to me that is the SGS harness' purpose. There is a large connector that plugs into the factory DSP. Is this where the speaker level inputs are coming from that go to the amplifier inputs, or is there another source that y'all are tapping the signal from? I'm assuming the factory DSP is discarded in this process. My goal is to do this install and not cut any OEM wiring if I can avoid it. I appreciate your patience.

 

[Ksjrb03]

late to the game. Question for the individuals that have used the kicker 500 and used the b&o subwoofer wires as high level outputs. how did you exactly wire it? It seems that the factory subwoofer is DVC, did you just use one pair?

Yes, the factory sub is dual voice coil. The kicker 500 amp has two inputs. You will use both sets of factory sub input speaker wires as inputs to the kicker amp. 4 wires total.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Let me break it down further, because I'm still not getting it. I may be confusing the matter with the SGS harness, because I'm beginning to think it's not what I thought it is. I'm trying to determine exactly, like the location, where the speaker level wires are coming out of the factory wiring harness that goes into the cargo area, and ultimately being routed into the amplifier input. Any wiring from the amp speaker output to the subwoofer is of no concern to me, because I won't be using the OEM sub box. Sounds to me that is the SGS harness' purpose. There is a large connector that plugs into the factory DSP. Is this where the speaker level inputs are coming from that go to the amplifier inputs, or is there another source that y'all are tapping the signal from? I'm assuming the factory DSP is discarded in this process. My goal is to do this install and not cut any OEM wiring if I can avoid it. I appreciate your patience.

Sorry, I didn’t use any aftermarket harness so I’m a little lost on your question. I just cut the 4 wires feeding the factory sub at the grommet on back of enclosure, and fed those to the input on my amp.

As @Edsasso said, it should make a lot more sense to you if you pull the panel and take a look at it all.

 

[teevan]

Anyone have an extra 4" speaker from a B&O upgrade?? I need one 4" for the center channel, preferably a JL C1 or better!

I have a kicker CSC4...not better than the JL C1, but I like them...

 

[BenBronco]

Sorry, I didn’t use any aftermarket harness so I’m a little lost on your question. I just cut the 4 wires feeding the factory sub at the grommet on back of enclosure, and fed those to the input on my amp.

As @Edsasso said, it should make a lot more sense to you if you pull the panel and take a look at it all.

Sorry, I didn’t use any aftermarket harness so I’m a little lost on your question. I just cut the 4 wires feeding the factory sub at the grommet on back of enclosure, and fed those to the input on my amp.

As @Edsasso said, it should make a lot more sense to you if you pull the panel and take a look at it all.

Do you think anyone makes an aftermarket adapter that will plug into the factory harness that goes from the OEM amp to the OEM sub? I'm going with an aftermarket enclosure and it would be easy to remove the OEM amp and plug an adapter into the factory amp that would then supply the wires to run to the Kicker amp. That way I wouldn't need to cut the factory plug. Do you know of anyone that has a picture of the factory connection between the OEM amp and sub? I could then use that to search for an adapter.

 

[derichio02]

Do you think anyone makes an aftermarket adapter that will plug into the factory harness that goes from the OEM amp to the OEM sub? I'm going with an aftermarket enclosure and it would be easy to remove the OEM amp and plug an adapter into the factory amp that would then supply the wires to run to the Kicker amp. That way I wouldn't need to cut the factory plug. Do you know of anyone that has a picture of the factory connection between the OEM amp and sub? I could then use that to search for an adapter.

I used this with the speaker wire breakout instead of the RCA since I used a previous Key 500.1 I had. Works well - https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...r-amplifier-to-factory?variant=42875319714004

 

[T|K]

Reading all this is there a easy cliff notes on what is best to do for the B&O without breaking the bank? Really would like to replace the sub and amp, and replace a few of the main speakers but it is really hard to tell reading all this the best options to go with. Seems like on all the various posts now people have done different setups to get the most out of it without a crazy amount of work.

Sounds like at least for the sub
Kicker Key 500.1 amp with a 48cWR84 is the way to go for that

For speakers though, what's the best ones to focus on first? And recommendations? I think its the front dash ones and the rear pods maybe it sounds like? Thinking about leaving the center for right now and just doing the 2 pairs of 4" speakers?

 

[jeffac]

Hi,



Just wanted to contact you and let you know how much I appreciate all the work you did with the speaker/amp choices, wiring diagrams, etc..

I know you went through a lot of trial and error to get to this point and you made a lot of lives easy with this changeout. And it sounds so

much better!! Would be embarrassed if I was Ford with especially the piece of crap subwoofer that they put in the upgraded B&O System.

Just wanted to share a couple of things that helped me.

• The poly fill does help with a sharper bass, but I used spray foam to fill the port on the box and the sound is way, way better.
• The 3’ extension elbow didn’t work in the amp for the bass control knob. It didn’t go in deep enough, but it worked well with the supplied cable coming straight out.
• On the subwoofer I felt a bit nervous about relying on the glue to retain the woofer, but I was able to use a band saw and peanut grinder to make the plastic ring smaller.
• Those white plastic grommeted clips are $10.00 each and I found a bag of 25 on Amazon for $7.99, and they work awesome.

Amazon.com: OAUTOO 25PCS Door Trim Panel Retainer with Sealer Replacement for Ford W713297-S300 & Tesla Model S 1025401-00-A : Automotive





Again really, really appreciate your work and generosity!



Jeff

 

[Ksjrb03]

Reading all this is there a easy cliff notes on what is best to do for the B&O without breaking the bank? Really would like to replace the sub and amp, and replace a few of the main speakers but it is really hard to tell reading all this the best options to go with. Seems like on all the various posts now people have done different setups to get the most out of it without a crazy amount of work.

Sounds like at least for the sub
Kicker Key 500.1 amp with a 48cWR84 is the way to go for that

For speakers though, what's the best ones to focus on first? And recommendations? I think its the front dash ones and the rear pods maybe it sounds like? Thinking about leaving the center for right now and just doing the 2 pairs of 4" speakers?

Honestly I think all of the speakers are important and in need of replacement, personally. If you want to attack it in stages I would think the dash would be the place to start, but all 3 don’t skip the center channel, especially if you use surround mode.

Hi,



Just wanted to contact you and let you know how much I appreciate all the work you did with the speaker/amp choices, wiring diagrams, etc..

I know you went through a lot of trial and error to get to this point and you made a lot of lives easy with this changeout. And it sounds so

much better!! Would be embarrassed if I was Ford with especially the piece of crap subwoofer that they put in the upgraded B&O System.

Just wanted to share a couple of things that helped me.

• The poly fill does help with a sharper bass, but I used spray foam to fill the port on the box and the sound is way, way better.
• The 3’ extension elbow didn’t work in the amp for the bass control knob. It didn’t go in deep enough, but it worked well with the supplied cable coming straight out.
• On the subwoofer I felt a bit nervous about relying on the glue to retain the woofer, but I was able to use a band saw and peanut grinder to make the plastic ring smaller.
• Those white plastic grommeted clips are $10.00 each and I found a bag of 25 on Amazon for $7.99, and they work awesome.

Amazon.com: OAUTOO 25PCS Door Trim Panel Retainer with Sealer Replacement for Ford W713297-S300 & Tesla Model S 1025401-00-A : Automotive





Again really, really appreciate your work and generosity!



Jeff

Awesome, nice to hear your happy with the project results!

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