ok, first: amazing write up and sharing of your process. i followed your lead on front corners, center channel and read pods as phase 1; thinking about going with 6.5 JL component speakers for kick panels soon to round out the main sound stage.I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.
I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.
I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want
I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.
Parts
JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html
JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html
Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html
Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon
Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Total - $979.97
Dash Speakers
There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.
Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.
The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.
Kick Panel
I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.
Rear Pod Speakers
As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.
Sub/Amp
This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/
I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.
The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.
I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.
I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.
Rattle Battle
Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.
I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!
Panel clips and part #s
Wiring drawing
11/14/22 Edit to add modified drawing, showing wire changes color after the green connector
Shop Manuals for removing trim
now, for a question that i've been wrestling with:
i will likely continue on with the kicker sub and 500.1 amp, but i did read (with great interest) your comments about poly filling the B+O sub cabinet and seeing if that produced a suitable improvement. my question is as follows: if you were going to do this (retaining the factory sub for the moment, would you close the port on the enclosure or leave it open?
thanks again for a fantastic write up!
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