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KompressorV12

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As promised here is a quick write up of my B&O sub removal and replacement.

I’ve had various high-end audio systems in German automobiles and most recently the 19 speaker Harmon Hardon system in a 2019 grand Cherokee (which I thought was underwhelming). I happen to think the B&O speakers are very good. Mind you I haven’t rolled with the top or doors completely off yet I’m happy with the clarity and loudness considering the removable door constraints. The only thing I would change is the sound stage, but as we all know that’s adding unnecessary complexity if you want to remove the doors. But that sub HAD TO GO. It was absolutely worthless. Turn it up and all you hear are rattles and the bass that comes from rattles. My first thought was going to be fab up some fiberglass and put it in a shallow mount W3 by building out the passenger side cargo area wall, but I already had a W7 and amp laying around and decided the best and cheapest route would be removing the factory B&O sub and sub enclosure and mounting my Alpine amp + active line output converter in its place. They are mounted using a fabbed ABS bracket on the factory enclosure holes. Everything is mounted up high for possible water intrusion and concealed so when the sub is quick disconnected nothing but a small unidentifiable wire is showing. Game changer!

Sub: JL 12W7AE
Enclosure: Custom sealed box
Amp: Alpine PDX M12 (1200RMS @ 2ohms)
LOC: Pac LPA 2.2
Wiring: KnuKonceptz 0 gauge OFC with 150amp fuse

Ford Bronco B&O sub removal and replacement with a JL W7 quick disconnect 0FDA2E13-B3F7-4FDA-9875-004C6431F72A


Ford Bronco B&O sub removal and replacement with a JL W7 quick disconnect 180EFF10-7E87-48E9-B08E-A80466C78F05


Ford Bronco B&O sub removal and replacement with a JL W7 quick disconnect 35B33C92-57CE-4D25-BA3F-0BEAF44634A0


Ford Bronco B&O sub removal and replacement with a JL W7 quick disconnect 74FFDA78-550F-4E18-B7C6-B7BC54F1348C
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edernest

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KompressorV12

KompressorV12

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Monster1926

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It’s gonna get snatched pretty quick. Could it be retrofitted to where the old sub was to conceal it?
 

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KompressorV12

KompressorV12

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It’s gonna get snatched pretty quick. Could it be retrofitted to where the old sub was to conceal it?
Definitely not able to retrofit lol

Ford Bronco B&O sub removal and replacement with a JL W7 quick disconnect 0D4807C7-BEAC-46F5-A9F7-878D7A106CD0
 

Ksjrb03

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The B&O speakers are garbage. Changing them out makes as big a difference as the sub.
 

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cbrum23

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Hard to beat the JL w7 series. I had a 10w7 in a custom built enclosure powered by just a 500w1 Amp in my 2003 ram 1500 and it beat down. I think I paid like $450 back then and searched recently and they were twice that now. That 10w7 could've used a 1000w Amp easy. I was in college and some chick riding in the back seat thought it would be cool to put her car keys on the sub to watch em bounce...cracked the cone.... man I was pissed.
 

newclubfront

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I'm not familiar with quick disconnect. Can you take pictures of the back of the sub with the wires plugged in? Trying to envision how you have power, ground, and high input/rca going into the sub.
 

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As promised here is a quick write up of my B&O sub removal and replacement.

I’ve had various high-end audio systems in German automobiles and most recently the 19 speaker Harmon Hardon system in a 2019 grand Cherokee (which I thought was underwhelming). I happen to think the B&O speakers are very good. Mind you I haven’t rolled with the top or doors completely off yet I’m happy with the clarity and loudness considering the removable door constraints. The only thing I would change is the sound stage, but as we all know that’s adding unnecessary complexity if you want to remove the doors. But that sub HAD TO GO. It was absolutely worthless. Turn it up and all you hear are rattles and the bass that comes from rattles. My first thought was going to be fab up some fiberglass and put it in a shallow mount W3 by building out the passenger side cargo area wall, but I already had a W7 and amp laying around and decided the best and cheapest route would be removing the factory B&O sub and sub enclosure and mounting my Alpine amp + active line output converter in its place. They are mounted using a fabbed ABS bracket on the factory enclosure holes. Everything is mounted up high for possible water intrusion and concealed so when the sub is quick disconnected nothing but a small unidentifiable wire is showing. Game changer!

Sub: JL 12W7AE
Enclosure: Custom sealed box
Amp: Alpine PDX M12 (1200RMS @ 2ohms)
LOC: Pac LPA 2.2
Wiring: KnuKonceptz 0 gauge OFC with 150amp fuse

0FDA2E13-B3F7-4FDA-9875-004C6431F72A.webp


180EFF10-7E87-48E9-B08E-A80466C78F05.webp


35B33C92-57CE-4D25-BA3F-0BEAF44634A0.webp


74FFDA78-550F-4E18-B7C6-B7BC54F1348C.webp
I'm expecting a rattle from the B&O sub. It's likely that the issue is inadequate venting thru the panel. It's very common on many OEM "Premium" systems, and I'm expecting with this as well.
 
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KompressorV12

KompressorV12

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I'm expecting a rattle from the B&O sub. It's likely that the issue is inadequate venting thru the panel. It's very common on many aftermarket systems, and I'm expecting with this as well.
It was almost more rattle than bass to be honest. On the flip side, I've had a W7 in 4 different vehicles. This is the first vehicle ever with the W7 where there is zero rattle inside or out without any sound deadening or remediation. The soft top I'm sure plays a big part.
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