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- Apr 30, 2021
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- Location
- Portland, Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- 19' Jeep Grand Cherokee High Altitude
- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
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- #1
As promised here is a quick write up of my B&O sub removal and replacement.
I’ve had various high-end audio systems in German automobiles and most recently the 19 speaker Harmon Hardon system in a 2019 grand Cherokee (which I thought was underwhelming). I happen to think the B&O speakers are very good. Mind you I haven’t rolled with the top or doors completely off yet I’m happy with the clarity and loudness considering the removable door constraints. The only thing I would change is the sound stage, but as we all know that’s adding unnecessary complexity if you want to remove the doors. But that sub HAD TO GO. It was absolutely worthless. Turn it up and all you hear are rattles and the bass that comes from rattles. My first thought was going to be fab up some fiberglass and put it in a shallow mount W3 by building out the passenger side cargo area wall, but I already had a W7 and amp laying around and decided the best and cheapest route would be removing the factory B&O sub and sub enclosure and mounting my Alpine amp + active line output converter in its place. They are mounted using a fabbed ABS bracket on the factory enclosure holes. Everything is mounted up high for possible water intrusion and concealed so when the sub is quick disconnected nothing but a small unidentifiable wire is showing. Game changer!
Sub: JL 12W7AE
Enclosure: Custom sealed box
Amp: Alpine PDX M12 (1200RMS @ 2ohms)
LOC: Pac LPA 2.2
Wiring: KnuKonceptz 0 gauge OFC with 150amp fuse
I’ve had various high-end audio systems in German automobiles and most recently the 19 speaker Harmon Hardon system in a 2019 grand Cherokee (which I thought was underwhelming). I happen to think the B&O speakers are very good. Mind you I haven’t rolled with the top or doors completely off yet I’m happy with the clarity and loudness considering the removable door constraints. The only thing I would change is the sound stage, but as we all know that’s adding unnecessary complexity if you want to remove the doors. But that sub HAD TO GO. It was absolutely worthless. Turn it up and all you hear are rattles and the bass that comes from rattles. My first thought was going to be fab up some fiberglass and put it in a shallow mount W3 by building out the passenger side cargo area wall, but I already had a W7 and amp laying around and decided the best and cheapest route would be removing the factory B&O sub and sub enclosure and mounting my Alpine amp + active line output converter in its place. They are mounted using a fabbed ABS bracket on the factory enclosure holes. Everything is mounted up high for possible water intrusion and concealed so when the sub is quick disconnected nothing but a small unidentifiable wire is showing. Game changer!
Sub: JL 12W7AE
Enclosure: Custom sealed box
Amp: Alpine PDX M12 (1200RMS @ 2ohms)
LOC: Pac LPA 2.2
Wiring: KnuKonceptz 0 gauge OFC with 150amp fuse
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