Base audio system line level interface possible | mObridge

[mObridge]

Hi all,


So we have recently figured out a way to do a plug and play upgrade kit for the base model audio system, it would mean that the system is converted to A2B and then any of our A2B range would work, so you would be able to drop our amp in or pre-amp range and get a dead flat signal out.

The total install is probably an hour or two Job and no wires cut. After, you have a choice of using our pre-amp (or anyone else's for that matter) or our amp and you will have a raw signal from the headunit to work with, no de-eqing needed.

Issue being is that we would have to include a few expensive parts that we can only source from Ford themselves.

The kit would be roughly an additional $1500 on top of any pre-amp/amp. Basically the entire cost here is in parts from Ford.

We are just trying to gauge interest at this price point. Unfortunately There is no other way to properly interface with the base system.

How desperate are you base audio system owners for real audio upgrade?

Comment if interested!

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[Karl_in_Chicago]

Well kudos to you guys for figuring it out, first of all, well done! $1,500 before I've even gotten amp(s) and speakers would definitely be too rich for my blood. Line level out is obviously the best solution but sometimes "good enough" is just that. Shame that Ford keeps making it so hard to get a decent frickin' stereo here - they don't sell one and they sure as hell make it hard to fix the ones they do sell.

 

[mObridge]

Well kudos to you guys for figuring it out, first of all, well done! $1,500 before I've even gotten amp(s) and speakers would definitely be too rich for my blood. Line level out is obviously the best solution but sometimes "good enough" is just that. Shame that Ford keeps making it so hard to get a decent frickin' stereo here - they don't sell one and they sure as hell make it hard to fix the ones they do sell.

Thank you!
Yep we were a bit shocked when we got the quote back from Ford for the A2B module needed, thats for sure.

Agreed $1500 to start the show is expensive for sure. That being said, if you drop our amp in you're in about 3k and then all you need is speakers. Sounds a little better but still a lot to swallow.

I guess the main take away for new buyers is your $3kish for the B&O option can better spent!

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Thank you!
Yep we were a bit shocked when we got the quote back from Ford for the A2B module needed, thats for sure.

Agreed $1500 to start the show is expensive for sure. That being said, if you drop our amp in you're in about 3k and then all you need is speakers. Sounds a little better but still a lot to swallow.

I guess the main take away for new buyers is your $3kish for the B&O option can better spent!

Definitely! The *ONLY* reason I wanted the Lux pkg was for the stereo but the silver lining in the delay for my build was finding out in time to switch to High instead and save that $$ for improving the stock unit.

 

[John P.]

The only reason I wanted Lux was the heated steering wheel.

 

[BroncoJoe]

I am definitely interested in this. Switched from Lux to High and figured I would use the savings on a quality setup in the stock locations.

 

[Brnzbronc]

Just get yourself a dsp it’ll control everything you need and adjust frequency. I use a audio control DSP608

 

[BroncoJoe]

Just get yourself a dsp it’ll control everything you need and adjust frequency. I use a audio control DSP608

This does look nice. What did you do with the inputs? Did you sum them and go from there?

My only concern is that I want to keep the factory volume, etc. and also keep all of the audio chimes and navigation and things that might come with synch4.

 

[mObridge]

Just get yourself a dsp it’ll control everything you need and adjust frequency. I use a audio control DSP608

This is a fine solution if you aren't that phased by top end audio quality or low end bass reproduction.

Let me explain this issues with de-eqing:

By grabbing high level inputs off a speaker level out, you are grabbing a signal after its been processed, filtered and after it has been amplified.

There are many issues, ill list a few.

1. You are grabbing a signal after it has been amplifier by really cheap crap D class chips, the stock head unit uses some of the cheapest D class chips available with a very average noise floor and THD, you can't process out distorision or noise.

2. You have to try and sum multiple different signal sources together to try and get a full range signal. You will never get a signal back to how it was by doing this, you might get closeish but it will never sound quite right compared to the original signal.

3. There are some DSP techniques that you simply cannot de-process, such as dynamic range compression.

4. Because the factory stock system has a high pass on it to remove low frequencies due to rattles and the lack of a sub, you simply won't have these signals present so no amount of processing will restore these to their perfect former glory.


I'm not saying you can't make an improvement by using high-level inputs and reconstructing a signal. Im just saying if you think your system sounds good with this type of setup, thats just because you havent heard one that started with a raw untouched signal from A2B.

 

[Silence]

How about you use me for the guinea pig and we will find out..

 

[mObridge]

How about you use me for the guinea pig and we will find out..

Are you in SoCal?

We are always interested in guinea pigs.

 

[Silence]

Yes. San Diego. Currently running key 200 and key 500 setup with Blam components in front, Blam coaxial in rear, and tailgate box and sub.

 

[Brnzbronc]

This does look nice. What did you do with the inputs? Did you sum them and go from there?

My only concern is that I want to keep the factory volume, etc. and also keep all of the audio chimes and navigation and things that might come with synch4.

If you have the base system you’ll retain the chimes and turn signal. You’ll need a T harness which routes speaker wire inputs into the dsp. There’s other systems that use DSP even the kicker

This is a fine solution if you aren't that phased by top end audio quality or low end bass reproduction.

Let me explain this issues with de-eqing:

By grabbing high level inputs off a speaker level out, you are grabbing a signal after its been processed, filtered and after it has been amplified.

There are many issues, ill list a few.

1. You are grabbing a signal after it has been amplifier by really cheap crap D class chips, the stock head unit uses some of the cheapest D class chips available with a very average noise floor and THD, you can't process out distorision or noise.

2. You have to try and sum multiple different signal sources together to try and get a full range signal. You will never get a signal back to how it was by doing this, you might get closeish but it will never sound quite right compared to the original signal.

3. There are some DSP techniques that you simply cannot de-process, such as dynamic range compression.

4. Because the factory stock system has a high pass on it to remove low frequencies due to rattles and the lack of a sub, you simply won't have these signals present so no amount of processing will restore these to their perfect former glory.


I'm not saying you can't make an improvement by using high-level inputs and reconstructing a signal. Im just saying if you think your system sounds good with this type of setup, thats just because you havent heard one that started with a raw untouched signal from A2B.

How do you propose your equipment will change the output if the output is already filtered from low frequencies? I suspect that you’ll use the front channel signals which are already full range and sum the signals without using forscan to change syncs eq settings to flat?

 

[Brnzbronc]

This does look nice. What did you do with the inputs? Did you sum them and go from there?

My only concern is that I want to keep the factory volume, etc. and also keep all of the audio chimes and navigation and things that might come with synch4.

So here’s the 3 questions you should ask yourself..
1- what’s your budget
2- what outcome are you looking for
3- are you willing to give up space

If your budget is tight, you’ll want to stick with a plug n play type of kit and purchase a set of quality 4” leave the kick panel they do well with mid range. It will improve sound and volume but marginal.
If your budget is endless go ham on it, you or a reputable shop can install a full system. There are companies that sell DSP integrated amps, like Audison, JL Audio, audio control that will do it all. With the base system you just need a T harness and loop back harness. If you wanted to upgrade the B&O system it’s more to it then just a simple wire harness. As for sound quality it’s not going to matter if you use the factory head head unit or aftermarket. It all depends on your source of music. If you use your phone to stream music from It’s not going to matter due to how music is compressed and how each artist had recorded their music and it will become more noticeable with higher end equipment.

 

[BroncoJoe]

So here’s the 3 questions you should ask yourself..
1- what’s your budget
2- what outcome are you looking for
3- are you willing to give up space

If your budget is tight, you’ll want to stick with a plug n play type of kit and purchase a set of quality 4” leave the kick panel they do well with mid range. It will improve sound and volume but marginal.
If your budget is endless go ham on it, you or a reputable shop can install a full system. There are companies that sell DSP integrated amps, like Audison, JL Audio, audio control that will do it all. With the base system you just need a T harness and loop back harness. If you wanted to upgrade the B&O system it’s more to it then just a simple wire harness. As for sound quality it’s not going to matter if you use the factory head head unit or aftermarket. It all depends on your source of music. If you use your phone to stream music from It’s not going to matter due to how music is compressed and how each artist had recorded their music and it will become more noticeable with higher end equipment.

Those are all very good points. Budget doesn't matter but I do need to be honest in that I will probably be using Spotify to stream 99% of the time.

I don't want to give up space either. I have the base system with space for a sub.
I would love to fit a focal utopia m 10in sub in a custom enclosure that fits in the stock location.
Utopia all around would be sweet but I think unnecessary since I'll be streaming and I don't think it's worth the cost in this situation.
I will do all the work myself because I like doing that sort of thing.

So yeah will probably run a T harness and throw in new speakers and dsp amps.

This guy has a nice build and I like the custom mounting solution for the dash.
I dont need or want the giant bass in the though and I would need to find amps small enough to power all the components and still be able to hide them.



I haven't worked with newer vehicles so I was just concerned about seamlessly tieing all this in to sync4

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