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Cam Phaser Issues

Ducati1098

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I was referring to Bronco Raptor specific cam phaser issue. I clarified with my service that statement was Bronco Raptor specific.
I just mean that the 2.7/3.0 are practically identical. They use the exact same phasers, so they will all have the same issues.
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FLSTFI Dave

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This has been an issue with Ford V6 eco boost motors for quite a while. 2.7, 3.5 and now 3.0
 

AK SNO RIDER

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Break-in has nothing to do with this, you're good. This is an issue that has been plaguing ford for 10+ YEARS and they still can't fix the issue. Sad.
I believe this issue goes all the way back to '04ish. Almost 20 years and they haven't done a damn thing about it.
 

'18 M2

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I don’t know much, if anything, about car engines. Aside from a few seconds of the engine sounding like a tractor, is there any other issues this causes?
 

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rivasrubicon

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I was referring to Bronco Raptor specific cam phaser issue. I clarified with my service that statement was Bronco Raptor specific.
Would the cam phasers fall under a specific warranty? If so what’s the mileage/timeframe?
 

Ducati1098

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Ducati1098

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I don’t know much, if anything, about car engines. Aside from a few seconds of the engine sounding like a tractor, is there any other issues this causes?
loss/lack of power in certain cases.
 
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Tye

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The latest in this saga, vehicle is scheduled for repair, however here is the kicker. They do no not have a loaner vehicle for me for the 2 weeks they need, and thus im being told they do rental cars, however ford only covers $40 day through enterprise. Here in CA, that wont even cover a compact car which means i would have to pay considerably out of pocket for just a compact car. I also have to set the rental up myself, pay for it, then be reimbursed. Anyone know who i can escalate to? I should not have to pay anything for a vehicle while mine is being repaired.
 

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FLSTFI Dave

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Try calling Ford Customer service.
 
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Tye

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Try calling Ford Customer service.
They are a joke. They just sided with the dealership that I have to pay out of pocket anything above $40 per day. They have no interest in helping resolve the situation. So in theory, Im actually having to pay out of pocket to deal with a warranty issue.
 

FLSTFI Dave

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They are a joke. They just sided with the dealership that I have to pay out of pocket anything above $40 per day. They have no interest in helping resolve the situation. So in theory, Im actually having to pay out of pocket to deal with a warranty issue.
Wow, that is a pretty poor dealer if you bought it there. Really bad on ford customer service. When the rear axel failed on my F-150, 100 miles past the 60K warranty, dealer told me to call Ford and push it. It took a few calls and a manager, but Ford paid 80% of the cost.
 
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Tye

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just got my braptor back. here are the service notes, as you can see its quite extensive how much has to come off the vehicle to get the engine out:

FROM PREVIOUS INSPECTION AND FOLLOWING WSM SECTION 303-01B TO REMOVE AND REPLACE VCTS. EVACUATE COOLING SYSTEM AND A/C, HOISTED VEHICLE AND DEPRESSURIZE FUEL SYSTEM.

& L/H WHEELS & FENDER SPLASH SHIELD.

DISCONNECT BATTERY AND REMOVE R/H

REMOVE UNDERBODY SHIELDS SKID

PLATES, MARK HOOD FOR EASY REASSEMBLE, REMOVE HOOD DISCONNECT POM WIRING HARNESS CONNECTORS RELEASE RETAINER CLIPS AND PLACE HARNESS ASIDE, REMOVE R/H & L/H ACL OUTLET PIPES CAC TUBES INLET AND OUTLET TUBES, REMOVE GENERATOR STRETCH BELT & ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT, REMOVE GENERATOR AND PLACE ASIDE, DRAIN ENGINE OIL, DISCONNECT WIRING HARNESS FROM A/C COMPRESSOR AND PLASE COMPRESSOR ASIDE, REMOVE GROUND WIRE, REMOVE TRANSMISSION COOLER BRACKET BOLTS, REMOVE CRANKCASE TUBE & EVAP TUBE, DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES, REMOVE HEATER HOSES & BRACKETS, DISCONNECT HOSES FROM OIL COOLER, DETACHE TRANSMISSION WIRING HARNESS, REMOVE R/H & L/H ENGINE MOUNT BOLT, REMOVE SWAY BAR BOLTS AND LOWER SWAY BAR DISCONNECT, USING AN ADJUSTABLE STAND POSITION & REMOVE STARTER MOTOR, DISCONNECT R/H & L/H CATALYTIC CONVERTER, REMOVE TORQUE CONVERTER COVER AND REMOVE TORQUE CONVERTER NUTS, REMOVE TRANSMISSION TO ENGINE BOLTS REMOVE L/H ENGINE MOUNT BOLTS & R/H ENGINE MOUNT NUTS USING A FLOOR JACK AND WOOD BLOCK TO SUPPORT TRANSMISSION, INSTALL SPECIAL TOOL AND USING ENGINE HOIST REMOVE ENGINE.



WITH ENGINE OUT CONTINUED BY INSTALLING AN ENGINE STAND TO ROTATE ENGINE AND REMOVE OIL PAN, REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD,

NET

COVERS, WATER PUMP HOUSING, RATATE ENGINE & REMOVE ENGINE OIL PAN

R/H & L/H VALVE

REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY & FRONT COVER. INSPECTED ALL TIMING COMPONENTS, AND CONFIRM TIMING CHAIN AND TENSIONERS OK, FOUND L/H R/H TENSIONER,

INTAKE VT NOT LOCKING, INSTALL SPECIAL CAMSHAFT HOLDING TOOL, REMOVE L/H TENSIONER,

GUDES, TIMING CHAIN AND REMOVE INT & EXH VCTS, GUDES AND VCTS,

USE FASTENERS,

INSTALL NEW VCTs,

REMOVE

TORQUE TO SPECIFICATION.

REPLACE ALT ONE TIME

CLEAN ALL GASKET SEALER USING

ZC-30-A AND PM-4-A, APPLY ZC-20 AND WIPE OFF USING A CLEAN SHOP TOWEL, REPLACE FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL AND REPLACE ALL ONE TIME USE GASKETS, O-RINGS & SEALS, PREP SURFACE USING ZC-31-B AND APPLY NEW SEALER TA-357, INSTALL FRONT COVER,

ALL PARTS PREVIOUSLY REMOVE IN REVERSE ORDER,

TORQUE ALL/ BOLTS TO SPECIFICATION, INSTALL

INSTALL ENGINE IN

VEHICLE, INSTALL ALL PARTS PREVIOUSIX REMOVE IN REVERSE ORDER, VACUUM FILL COOLING SYSTEM, ADD FRESH OIL & NEW FILTER RUN ENGINE TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE,

INSPECT FOR IRAKSA NO EEAKS ROUND AT THIS TIME, INSTALL HOOD, PRESSURE WASH ENGINE AND UNDER BODY TO REMOVE COOLANT & OIL RESIDUE, TEST DRIVE VEHICLE AND CONFIRM REPAIR, HOISTED VEHICLE AND INSTALL ALL SKID PLATES
 

swamp2

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just got my braptor back. here are the service notes, as you can see its quite extensive how much has to come off the vehicle to get the engine out:
Wow, open heart surgery. Seems good that they actually documented it all. Hope if was a good mechanic. They probably put a lead of some sort on it.
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