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Definitive does ForScan unlock the output on rear speakers?

Roll Sound

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So all this about full range audio to the rear speakers, or not full range. I have seen it written many times on here that the rear speakers are crossed over from DSP or the head unit. Well I was watching the video on how to remove the front and rear 4" speakers, and I noticed the rear speakers have that same cap by the by the + and - tabs. So I'm guessing its full range and is crossed over just like the front. I can verify this in a couple of days when I put mine in and throw a meter on it. I watched it a couple times. The cap is there in the rears for sure.
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zombie

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So all this about full range audio to the rear speakers, or not full range. I have seen it written many times on here that the rear speakers are crossed over from DSP or the head unit. Well I was watching the video on how to remove the front and rear 4" speakers, and I noticed the rear speakers have that same cap by the by the + and - tabs. So I'm guessing its full range and is crossed over just like the front. I can verify this in a couple of days when I put mine in and throw a meter on it. I watched it a couple times. The cap is there in the rears for sure.
I believe the rears only have the capacitor/filter on them because it's cheaper to include a 5 cent cap and not need it than to have two different speakers.
 

DFNMAN

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Assuming of course, we can switch on full frequency to the rear speakers lines! Else, these would be pretty much useless
Using a line output converter with channel summing would take care of that.
 

talbot

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In for answers
 

Roll Sound

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I believe the rears only have the capacitor/filter on them because it's cheaper to include a 5 cent cap and not need it than to have two different speakers.
Then why would they roll it off from head unit at all if it's built into speaker? Even for Ford that doesn't make sense.
 

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Panzer948

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Watching to learn more as well. I have B&O but was assuming all the crossed over/filtering was going on at the factory amp in the back. Thus I was hoping simply replacing that with a more powerful regular amp and some new speakers in the pods to accept the new power would be all that is needed. Sounds like this is more complicated than I thought.

I am actually ok with the B&O system, that is until I take the top and/or doors off. It is about useless to get over highway speed noise (without distortion) so we will need something with a little more power to enjoy music this summer!
 

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I do not see any cap on the rear pods like are on the front. I have the pods off since i have the soundbar installed.
 

Bled656

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I just installed the jbl soundbar, it does block almost the whole rear view, it is hardwired not bluetooth, it needs to be reprogrammed and I don’t think it is possible with forscan,it sounds good but i wasn’t really impressed for the price
 

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I do not see any cap on the rear pods like are on the front. I have the pods off since i have the soundbar installed.
I didn't think mine had them, but I went out and looked at them and all 4" speakers from my Bronco have the caps on them.
 

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Tricky Nick

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I didn't think mine had them, but I went out and looked at them and all 4" speakers from my Bronco have the caps on them.
was the cap on your rear pods in the actual pod or further up the speaker wire. I did not see it in my pods, and now I wonder if the dealership put them on the JBL soundbar since it is connected to the same factory connectors. I will have to investigate further. Thanks.
 

Tricky Nick

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I didn't think mine had them, but I went out and looked at them and all 4" speakers from my Bronco have the caps on them.
nevermind, I see them now on my rear pods also.
 

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Damn.... But the rears sound SO much worse than the front. Or am I being tricked by the 6.5's up front too?
I might just yank the fucking caps of the rear and try it. Or maybe add a cap to bring in some 300Hz and above...
Or just blow the sluts and upgrade.
 
 


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