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Definitive does ForScan unlock the output on rear speakers?

WuNgUn

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Could be, for whatever reason, Ford put a bigger capacitor on the rear speakers compared to the front. If so, I'll just replace the rears with my fronts (should plug right in) when my Polks arrive.

Has anyone who has replaced the fronts tried swapping them like this?
 

TahoeTexan

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Once I get my OB (hopefully in March), I'll most likely go with a JL Audio Fix-86. I have in my Ridgeline now and it made a world of difference. The Ridgeline is much more complicated audio wise than a Bronco, ANC, multiple speakers, fully integrated infotainment system, etc. The Fix is super configurable. The Fix takes all the outputs from the HU and sums them, then splits the outputs however you want.

That said, it's probably overkill if you're just trying to get full signal to the rears.

Fix 86
 

da_jokker

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Okay, tomorrow I'm going into the rear pods and straight-up removing the caps....
It's not going to help. Folks have established that the head unit has been programmed to not send the full signal to the back. Whether your pods have base blockers or not makes no difference. As others have said, it was probably just simpler to keep the same part number for both front dash and rear pods.

Until someone figures out a way to tweak the head unit without having to have the JBL soundbar connected, The only choice we have is to tap off the signal for the front speakers, specifically before the kickers.

Of course if you find out something different, then please share. But the blockers are soldered onto the speaker board. So I'm not sure how you're planning on removing them without replacing the entire speaker.
 
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WuNgUn

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The blockers are


It's not going to help. Folks have established that the head unit has been programmed to not send the full signal to the back. Whether your pods have base blockers or not makes no difference. As others have said, it was probably just simpler to keep the same part number for both front dash and rear pods.

Until someone figures out a way to tweak the head unit without having to have the JBL soundbar connected, The only choice we have is to tap off the signal for the front speakers, specifically before the kickers.

Of course if you find out something different, then please share. But the blockers are soldered onto the speaker board. So I'm not sure how you're planning on removing them without replacing the entire speaker.
😫
 

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Someone said that the JBL sound bar is required because the head unit has to "talk" to it during the Forscan programming process..i dunno.

But as it stands, the only way to boost the rear is to tap into the front kick panels and of course this will cause you to loose your front/rear fad.
So, then you just adjust amp gain as fader for front to rear and leave it? Who is constantly adjusting the fade? just thinking out loud :D
 

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So, then you just adjust amp gain as fader for front to rear and leave it? Who is constantly adjusting the fade? just thinking out loud :D
Correct.. But some people like the rear to have a little more volume than the front. Just wish there was a way that we could volume up the back without having to do such a hack job.

Now when it comes to a subwoofer, it doesn't really matter front versus rear.

I mean what would be awesome is to disconnect the plug from the back of the head unit, plug in some sort of small amp in between that would boost all six speakers.

With a stupid head unit programmed AND no preamp outlets, it is a no go.
 

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I mean what would be awesome is to disconnect the plug from the back of the head unit, plug in some sort of small amp in between that would boost all six speakers.
Agreed!
 
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I'm still holding out that there is a ForScan code we haven't found yet that truly unlocks the rear.
 

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It's not going to help. Folks have established that the head unit has been programmed to not send the full signal to the back. Whether your pods have base blockers or not makes no difference. As others have said, it was probably just simpler to keep the same part number for both front dash and rear pods.

Until someone figures out a way to tweak the head unit without having to have the JBL soundbar connected, The only choice we have is to tap off the signal for the front speakers, specifically before the kickers.

Of course if you find out something different, then please share. But the blockers are soldered onto the speaker board. So I'm not sure how you're planning on removing them without replacing the entire speaker.
I think that it's different on the B&O system, because my rear speakers sounded much better once I replaced them. I haven't verified the frequency range, but maybe that's something that I can do later today, however, it appears like frequency response across the spectrum improved with the rear speakers.

I have an idea which I can hopefully test in about an hour.
 

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Anybody figured out how to get the full frequency on the REAR SPEAKERS yet?
I tested the rear pods, the "cut" with the B&O system was right at 150 Hz, so unless you have a need for your pod speakers to go lower than that, it's not an issue. I suspect that if we compare the B&O to the base system, we might find a possible difference between the two... Which would get you most of the way there.
 

ColeTrain84

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Does anyone know the ohm's of the stock B&O speakers? My badlands will have the B&O system but i'm guessing i'll need to upgrade speakers if i want to avoid the distortion at higher volumes...
 

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I think that it's different on the B&O system, because my rear speakers sounded much better once I replaced them. I haven't verified the frequency range, but maybe that's something that I can do later today, however, it appears like frequency response across the spectrum improved with the rear speakers.

I have an idea which I can hopefully test in about an hour.
I was wondering about B&O upgrades. Seems everyone is doing the base system but I’m curious how much speakers help on the upgraded system. What did you do? I’m a car audio noob so amps and wiring is a little more than I want to do but I can handle swapping speakers.
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