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popo_patty

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Well we took apart a stock, 2.0 steering rack that was taken off a Sasquatch Bronco. Bronco was mostly stock except some storage mods and armor mods, had 16000 miles on it and had been wheeled hard! This Bronco has been around the country wheeling, has been in Utah, Arizona, CA, NV and many more places. It’s broken it’s CV axle and tie rod on the rubicon and it’s intermediate shaft on Prison Hill.

The owner (IG handle Broncodetours) installed a 3.0 rack from BB and graciously offered to let me dissect his rack. Now, on the rubicon while I was replacing his axle and tie rod, I had noticed extensive metal shavings coming from the rack. I spent the better part of five minutes cycling the screw cleaning it off.

Now, about 1000 miles later on the rack, I took it apart to inspect the damage. Feel free to watch the video (and subscribe;) or read through here. I’m not sponsored and I’m not getting paid (though at 1k subscribers I start to see some income on YT which I won’t complain about)

This is part of my steering series where I will be diving into the 2.0 and 3.0 racks. Installing a BB 3.0 and a 74weld stage 1 3.0. We will also take apart a BB 2.0 rack and inspect it after approx 10,000 miles of off-road abuse on 37’s and a lift.

We also have another 2.0 rack being dissected at a later time as well except it’s from a Badlands on 37’s and 2” lift. also wheeled hard with a few Rubicon trips under his belt, albeit he hasn’t broken anything yet.

Anyways, I know this topic has been beat to death by various companies but since I’m-not affiliated, I felt it would be refreshing for myself to see for myself. And then film along the way cause you know… views…

Starting on the driver side, the plastic ring was making contact on the steering screw teeth and had some signs of rubbing but not much. This isn’t surprising because the Bronco wasn’t lifted. All good.

Moving to the passenger side was a different story. There were metal shards galore (keep in mind it hasn’t been off-road since I discovered and cleaned a bunch of metal already).

The metal was mainly in the housing but also in the screw/belt area. There were chunks of bushing everywhere as well.

Looking at the housing, the bushing was tore up in a specific area and untouched everywhere else. The screw was already making contact with the housing and sawing through it.

I was honestly surprised at how bad it was for a stock Sasquatch… I do have to disclaim again though, he likes his throttle for getting over obstacles. This is why I also want to dissect my other friends 2.0 that’s getting the 74weld system for my comparison and seeing how his is. This other friend is more known for crawling obstacles and being gentle on the rig.

Anyways, here are some pics, enjoy.

The pics were meh but video shows it better. On the one pic of the belt, the dust fell in but in the dust you see metal glistening in the video. Didn’t show up on photo very well.




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Apollo

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Thanks for the video, it’s great to see the problems on a stock rack. Ford quality at it’s finest. I am saving my pennies for a 74Weld rack and based off the mileage of the rack you took apart, I need to feed the piggy bank a little faster.
 
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popo_patty

popo_patty

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For all you stock SAS-Broncos take warning! Rough country bushings are the best $50 you can spend.
I’m eager to dissect a Rough Country bushing rack with some off-roading miles on it one day
 

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telenerd

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Good information, thanks for posting.

One thing that grinds my gears. 😂, is that the 74weld rack is using Ford internals. It looks like a mixture of plastic and rubber that could fail under extreme load. So after years of wheeling you may end up replacing the internals in your 74weld rack anyways. So I am not sure what’s the point of the Beefy housing? Besides not shattering like the stock one.

Excuse my ignorance on this topic if I offended anyone with the 74weld rack.
 
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popo_patty

popo_patty

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Good information, thanks for posting.

One thing that grinds my gears. 😂, is that the 74weld rack is using Ford internals. It looks like a mixture of plastic and rubber that could fail under extreme load. So after years of wheeling you may end up replacing the internals in your 74weld rack anyways. So I am not sure what’s the point of the Beefy housing? Besides not shattering like the stock one.

Excuse my ignorance on this topic if I offended anyone with the 74weld rack.
If it’s any consolation, I have 37,000 miles on my rack. Approx. 10,000 of which are lifted with 37’s. I’ve been on the rubicon, Moab twice, jumped dozens of times, dozens of trails local to on a weekly basis and no issues with stock internals yet. I know they will fail eventually and I know 37,000 miles isn’t a lot in the grand scheme of things. But so far so good. I’ll be dissecting my rack soon and will report back with how the gears are all doing
 

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Thanks for all the time and effort your putting in to this issue it is something we are all worried about concerning the 2.0 rack . I had a reservation for a base model then an order for a black diamond and traded it for a wildtrak all 2 door so I have a stock base 7 speed and a maxed out wildtrak and want to upgrade the base to look and perform like the wildtrak so thanks
 

da_jokker

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So did his rack fail or was it just replaced because you guys found metal shavings? For something "stock" that got abused, if the factory rack didn't give out...that would be a good thing.
 

Forditude

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For all you stock SAS-Broncos take warning! Rough country bushings are the best $50 you can spend.
So…I’m one of those Stock-SAS guys and a once in a while weekend off-road warrior. In your opinion, is the bushing upgrade enough to prevent a steering rack failure for the occasional off-roader? Was thinking about adding the RC tie-rods as well since I will be pulling them out anyway to do the bushings. I know BB has a kit too and a machined housing for the passenger side. Just trying to figure out how far I need to go with the steering upgrades. Not budgeted right now for HOSS 3.0 or 74 Weld.
Thanks!
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