DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector

[Panzer948]

Still unresolved. Would like for it to be on so long as the engine is on. Already cut the ac adapter off so I’m dedicated to hardwiring it at this point.

Ok, I will get back tomorrow to look at what other fuses I am using. But just so you know, I have a Oracle kit as well and it has a memory save function to make different colors, lighting patterns, etc. I originally had it hooked up to a fuse that is only on when engine on and it would always lose my saved presets requiring me to painfully reprogram it. (has no battery backup). I then moved it to a fuse that is switched on all the time to avoid that. This works as long as you can manually switch it on and off between the module and the light sources themselves. Just a thought. You may have a different system as they make a ton of them. Below is the DIY post I made about that setup:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...console-for-led-lights-and-power-steps.36706/

Update, I just reread the above to remind myself how I wired it. I am actually using the same fuse locations for my lighting kit as I am for my dashcam (#35 and #29). As long as the rated power (amps) do not exceed the rated fuse, you can split a wire off of those same locations and do the same. Let me know if you have other questions.

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[dsop]

I know this is an old post but I just installed my dashcam thanks to this thread! Great write-up

 

[Murph914]

I know this is an old post but I just installed my dashcam thanks to this thread! Great write-up

What fuse did you tap off of? I eventually went with #2. Supposed to be power windows, but they still worked with the fuse pulled.

also - with the 900x running off a B-124x battery I get 24 hours or so with no rear channel hooked up.

 

[dsop]

What fuse did you tap off of? I eventually went with #2. Supposed to be power windows, but they still worked with the fuse pulled.

also - with the 900x running off a B-124x battery I get 24 hours or so with no rear channel hooked up.

I used fuse #35 and am using a Garmin Mini 2, I opted to just have it on during ignition. That's a great battery life to get!

 

[Panzer948]

I know this is an old post but I just installed my dashcam thanks to this thread! Great write-up

Thanks, I appreciate the update. I took some time to put this together so glad it is still out there helping others. I have not been particularly happy with the Blackvue 900 as I have found the remote monitoring buggy. But yes this will work with any dash cam so that is good.

 

[orange_methodology]

Finally had the chance to install the Dashcam. Thought I would drop some pics to help others out. I did the best I could with the wiring to the back window. It definitely helps to have a fish rod. The cam wire is easily removed from the rear roof if I want to go topless. I used the Blendmount for the front cam but took the middle link out to get it higher.

Just installed my BlackVue DR900X-1CH PLUS. Thanks for this thread and all the helpful posts above.

I used the same ground point as shown in the quoted pic. I checked it with a circuit tester light, and it looks like a quality ground. However, when I start the engine, I'm hearing a faint noise over the speakers, like that of a ground "loop". If I disconnect that ground wire, the noise completely goes away (but the dashcam powers off, of course).

Has anyone else experienced this using that ground, and were you able to eliminate the noise?

My Bronco is a 2.7L w/ Lux.

 

[Stonetree]

Just installed my BlackVue DR900X-1CH PLUS. Thanks for this thread and all the helpful posts above.

I used the same ground point as shown in the quoted pic. I checked it with a circuit tester light, and it looks like a quality ground. However, when I start the engine, I'm hearing a faint noise over the speakers, like that of a ground "loop". If I disconnect that ground wire, the noise completely goes away (but the dashcam powers off, of course).

Has anyone else experienced this using that ground, and were you able to eliminate the noise?

My Bronco is a 2.7L w/ Lux.

Hmmm.... I haven't had that problem while using that ground point. Did you try another grounding point?

 

[orange_methodology]

Hmmm.... I haven't had that problem while using that ground point. Did you try another grounding point?

Thanks. I fixed it. The spade-like terminal on the ground wire was spread out, and it wasn't making a good connection. After bending it back closer together and reinstalling it to the same ground point, that noise is gone.

 

[Stonetree]

Good to hear!

 

[3_Dragons]

Yes great post and and details. I used it to install a VIOFO T130 three channel this weekend. While I have to clean up the rear camera wiring in the back it works great. I installed the rear in the rear roll bar and plan on removing the panels on the rear driver side to hide as much wiring as possible.

 

[Bad22]

Nice install! BTW, are.you using the app and if so which one for the Valentine. I have a Gen2 also, I used to put the display in the rear view mirror behind the glass but with the app its almost not necessary anymore.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Thought I would do a detailed write up of how a dual dashcam and radar detector install went over the past couple of days. I actually responded with some thoughts on similar posts, but thought to include my own experience with a few pics I took. I assume many are like me and haven't seen many vids or even pics of some of the dash panels being removed, so maybe this will help (if not too long...).

First of all I need to describe what I am installing since it will impact what panels one will need to tear into (J/K). For the dashcam, I opted for a BlackVue DR900X-2CH Plus with the CM100LTE module. The camera is 4K front/1080 Rear and was recently re-released with better image quality. However, the biggest factor in getting this model is the CM100LTE module that works with this unit. TheCM100LTE takes a SIM card, similar to what you would buy for a tablet data plan only. I went with TMobile since I already have an account with them for our phones and their plan is better than the competitor (AT&T). Basically free data for $10/month. With this setup, not only do I have full time driving coverage, front and rear, but also 24 hour parking mode surveillance where it monitors impacts and even movement and will send you real time alerts with the option to view in real time, similar to the Nest/Ring camera setups for homes. Might be a little overkill but I have owned a soft-top Jeep for years and have had plenty of things stolen from it. With this setup, not only will I likely record who did it, but possibly catch them before to late.

As I posted in another thread, I am not adding a separate battery bank since this model has voltage protection built in. This means that it monitors the battery voltage during parking mode and will cut off if the car voltage drops below an assigned number. I think most recommend 11.8 volts. I have been using a similar system in another car and have never had an issue as most will run for a day or more before dropping to that level. You can also have it turn off after a set amount of time (I selected off at 11.9 volts or 48 hours, whichever is first). A battery bank is a good idea if your leaving your Bronco alone for several days, but I will have it back in a garage each night and should not be unattended for more than a day.

I am mounting a Valentine 1 Gen 2 Radar Detector, which I already own for another car. I plan to swap them between both vehicles so wanted a more permanent mount that is still easy to disconnect. I opted for a "BlendMount" which attaches to your mirror. Radar Detector Power will be thru a mirror tap while the dash cam will require both a 12 volt constant source (for parking mode) and Acc on wire for regular driving mode (allows dashcam to also know what mode to operate in). The CME100 Module is to be installed to the top corner of the windshield and is powered by the dash cam. Not a big fan of it going there but that is what they recommend.

Mirrortap stuff first. For the dimming powered mirror, you can tap into both the ACC positive on (with ignition) and ground wire using one of the following: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Det...ics&sprefix=mirror+tap,electronics,201&sr=1-9

This comes with 3 different sizes, with the other end being a RJ11 plug that connects to most radar detectors. The smaller of the three works best. You now have two spares for your other car (or future car The electrical connector plug in back of the mirror is easily pulled loose by pushing on the bottom tab and pulling toward the windshield. From there you should be able to push the thinner mirror tap leads, with + going to the white wire hole and the ground going to the black/blue stripe wire hole (see close up below). I would use a 12 volt test gauge to be sure since it could vary by model.

Finally, the pic on far right is the mount itself, which could vary by radar detector. Very nice professional mount that isn't going anywhere when hitting the trails (unlike your standard suction cup mount). They also make an accessory to mount the dash cam but I decided to mount it closer to top. https://blendmount.com/aluminum-rad...tine-one-gen1-gen2-standard-series-bv1-2001r/

Next up is running all the wiring connections to the front dash cam. To get 12 volts full time and 12 volts only with ignition, I did like a few others and tapped into the fuse box below the steering wheel where you will find a column of Micro2 fuses on the left. You can pick-up a very affordable set from Amazon for around $7. I used the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZV4LY54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I

I selected Fuse #29 for Full time power and Fuse #35 for ignition only. According to the manual, they are both spares, so even better. Below is a pic after I tapped into #29. #35 is near the bottom on the same left row. I added a bullet type connector for the connecting green wire using heat shrink (did this for all connections so will not repeat). Now time to run both wires to the top windshield, which I found easier than I thought.

I knew the A Pillar would be a breeze as you can easily push it back between the glass and plastic with very little prying. However, I wanted to get it up to the A pillar site unseen. I decided to remove the Bronco Grab handle to get access to the area just above the fuse box (see pic below).

From there, it was easy to push a wire up through one of the openings to the bottom edge of the A pillar along the dash and then toward the windshield. A plastic dash pry tool comes in handy here.

From there it was up the backside of the A-pillar (closest to windshield) to the top of the windshield where it meets the plastic headliner. Believe it or not, this step was rather aggravating. The wires were to lose along most of the top, but near the sun visor mount, it was to tight which means they kept falling down. Pic below shows a tab you pull down on the sun visor holder. Underneath that is a torx screw that easily comes out. After I removed that, the wires you see below can be tucked in. Upon tightening it, they stay in place and are no longer visible.

I actually ran on extra wire during this process in case the mirror tap idea for the radar detector didn't work out, thus I ended up with access wires to hide. The black box right of the mirror (holding the vehicles camera) makes a convenient place to tuck all these extra wires and was a final destination spot before I mounted the dashcam. You have to tug on it to pop it lose. You will also need to tuck the wires coming from the headline edge to around the edge of the upper console. This is tighter so that plastic pry tool comes in handy there.

The CME100 Module that now holds the new data sim card was mounted on the opposite side of the windshield (top right corner) so it can bug my passenger. It's wire travels back to the dash cam, thus I tucked it's wire the same way I did the power wires on the driver side. Any access wire is actually stored in the passenger side A-Pillar.

Now for the long wire that must go from the dash cam to the rear camera. I decided to mount the rear camera on the roll bar. What is nice about this model is that I can easily rotate the rear camera to face the rear window or the front passenger area. I may do the latter if parking around crowds with the top down. Anyway, this was actually my biggest unknown as I have not seen many pics or discussions on how others have gotten wires back there. For the most part it went well with the rear camera wire following the headliner and A Pillar path already described for the power wires. From there, I basically pulled back the door trim panel closest to the fuse box to push the wire thru to the floor trim panel (which is easily removed with no tools). The 1st pic below shows this door frame trim panel (apologize if not the proper name) only partially pulled back which allowed me to easily fish the wire down toward the center floor trim piece.

Similar to the front floor trim piece, the back seat floor trim piece is easily removed. I was able to fish the wire to the back without removing the middle B-Pillar trim panels (area directly left and beneath front seat) by going along the inner edge and pushing wire beneath the trim. The plastic trim between the fender and rear seat is also easily pulled back to tuck the wire. To go vertical up the next pillar toward the roll bar, you simply pull back the rubber weather stripping, as shown below, and push the wires out of site. Be sure and place weather strip back in origional place.

Now we reach the spot I am least happy with. There is an airbag between this vertical pillar and the rollbar. That piece is not easily removed, and for good reason since you would not want a wire interfeeing with deployment. Thus, this is the only place where the wire ends up being visible, although it fits nicely in between the two sections before easily entering the bottom plastic panel that covers the roll bar. I may still look for a different solution in the area when I have more time since it is exposed and to be honest, I would rather not have it so close to the airbag area.

There is a panel behind the rollbar (not shown in pics) that is very loose; thus you can easily get a wire in there and run it along the back side of the plastic trim to the rollbar. I opted to place my rear camera in that middle channel in the back of the roll bar so the wire would mostly be hidden to passengers.

Below are final pics after install. This was taken at night so harder to see details. Dashcam in upper left windshield, Radar Detector on mount connected to mirror, and finally SIM Card Module with data plan at far right corner.

Here is the app doing its thing while at work.... all in real time.

I thought I'd post what might be a helpful "hack" for those of us that have broken one of the nano prongs on the mirrortap that taps into the mirror wiring harness.

I simply cut off one of the prongs on a "U" wire connector, stripped the wire on the mirrortap, and crimped the connector to it. It fit like a charm.

 

[Min_Ahn]

Just sharing my experience.
- Thinkware X1000 with rear camera and a GPS module
- External battery to keep the dashcam running 24/7 without draining the 12v (charges when the car is on ignition
- 2x Fuse tappers (dunno what it's called, tapped the 10A Window fuse and 30A number 28 spare)
- A roll of fabric tape and a 3M VHB (originally had this dashcam in a different car, couldn't reuse the adhesive)

 

[rblock50]

I thought I'd post what might be a helpful "hack" for those of us that have broken one of the nano prongs on the mirrortap that taps into the mirror wiring harness.

I simply cut off one of the prongs on a "U" wire connector, stripped the wire on the mirrortap, and crimped the connector to it. It fit like a charm.

It sounds like you did the mirror tap for your power. Did you also run power to the fuse box? I don't plan on using the monitoring of the camera (when the car is off) so I was hoping that I could just tap into the mirror for the ACC power and Neg connections and call it a day. Can we do that with this camera, or do we always have to have the BATT power too?

 

[rblock50]

I see a lot of folks running the wires to the back by going down to the bottom of the car and then coming back up through the pillars. Why not just keep the wires up top and run the inside the plastic pieces along the top (left or right) side and back to the roll bar. I had to do something very similar when installing the mabbett rear cargo lights and it was a breeze. But I guess that would only work if you were attaching to the rollbar. If you are going to add it to the back glass, then it sounds like that method is needed.

Oh also for those of you who have attached their camera to the HT glass... What do you do when to take off the top? Did you add a quick disconnect somewhere in the wires so that you can decouple it?

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