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HOSS 3.0 vs HOSS 1.0 vs BroncBuster - driver side steering bushing comparison & discussion
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I have not torn it down completely yet, still wait to see if down the road I can get some replacement part to make it operational again.
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We have the replacement parts, ford just glued them in the housing.
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Right, the 3.0 racks right now are hard to get, will keep it for parts for now.
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So the Hoss bushing has that slot..is that for diameter adjustability or a drain?
Wonder if BB bushing had a slot that faced downward, if it would allow "drainage" and address the longevity.
Also, depending how you feel about 74welds claims, although the HOSS 3 rack is beefier, it is still not flexible due to its composite and so still susceptible to force fractures.
It will be interesting to see if/when HOSS 3 breaks.
Wonder if BB bushing had a slot that faced downward, if it would allow "drainage" and address the longevity.
Also, depending how you feel about 74welds claims, although the HOSS 3 rack is beefier, it is still not flexible due to its composite and so still susceptible to force fractures.
It will be interesting to see if/when HOSS 3 breaks.
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be very careful in disassembled the motor from rack....damage can occur because the glue don't release....I don't recommend removing it.
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My thought on the Hoss bushing is that the slot is for assembly just to get it into its location then the housing is slide down the shaft. I tried to remove the bushing by compressing the slot together no go tight fit.
This just my thinking but I do not think it a drain with the boots sealed with grease water is not some thing that should be getting inside, not to say it might.
I agree we will see how the Hoss 3.0 holds up over time.
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The rack is belt driven. Wut.
Good info, thanks for sharing. I installed the BB bushing for cheap insurance. Not beating up my rig, so I dont anticipate serious wear, but ya never know. We'll see how Moab treats her a coupke months.
Good info, thanks for sharing. I installed the BB bushing for cheap insurance. Not beating up my rig, so I dont anticipate serious wear, but ya never know. We'll see how Moab treats her a coupke months.
it's crazy to me to see how many people think those braces are a solution. I have the BB bushing, still on stock tie-rods and 35's but on a lift with proper geometry... and I definitely wheel my bronco. Biggest solution is don't wheel like a caveman... which seems to be very hard for some.
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On the middle connector we tried to move the pins that were bent over not even connecting inside the plug, at least four of the pins were bent this is after try. No go.@Ford Performance shipped him a damaged rack, wish Ford Performance would stand up and fix the issue. Pins are to bent and damn near impossible to straighten out.
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I did work on this for 30 minutes today, trying to get the glue/silicone to release.
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@NORCALGXP what do you say we just stick the motor from my rack into yours and see what happens?
So my experience is that the motor will remove with the three bolts and not do any damage. However if you try and separate the square portion of the electric motor you will pull apart the internals
The pins that are glue welded through the inside circuit board need to be pryed out from the BOTTOM, YOU ONLY GET 1/8" OF PLAY TO SLIDE IN A PRY in B4 YOU DESTROY IT.
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Very cool info thanks that is where we were at a few days ago and stopped.The pins that are glue welded through the inside circuit board need to be pryed out from the BOTTOM, YOU ONLY GET 1/8" OF PLAY TO SLIDE IN A PRY in B4 YOU DESTROY IT.
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