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KICKER KEY 200.4 VS OTHER AMPS . WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

plugnplaykits

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I want to explain the kicker key 200.4 amp in detail VS the musway amps to help members pick the right kit for their bronco . The kicker key is a 50 watt x 4 amp . on a bronco non b & o system . Your front 4 inch dash and 6 1/2 kick panel speakers are daisy chain together . So that means when using a key 200.4 the 50 watts running the front speakers gets split in half between the 4 inch and the 6 1/2 giving each speaker 25 watts each . the rear pods will get 50 watts each . this is a improvement over the stock acm output .and leaving the stock speakers in will sound better with the auto mic tune setup . This is what this amp and others like it we call (piggyback amps in the biz ) are made for adding a amp to factory or low power speakers . For this scenario a small budget the kicker key is a great choice Now if you upgraded your speakers we will use (kicker speakers for example ) the 4 inch require 60-70 watts continuous and the 6 1/2 require 100 watts . If you are using a kicker key 200.4 you are only giving the 4 inch 33% of the power it should have and 25% power to the 6 1/2 . so you spent the money on good speakers and your way under powering them . Your going backwards and the amp is your weak point .

For those that upgraded their 6 speakers the kit 34 musway four100 amp and harness is a way better option . $200 price difference from the kicker key . This amp has a continuous power of 120 watts a channel . So now when you divide 120 in half for the front speakers your still getting 60 watts to each speaker vs 25 from the kicker key 200.4 . This is most important to pepole who have upgraded to 6 1/2 pods in the rear as this will give them the required 100 watts to each rear speaker. For a noisy vehicle and convertible to sound good with the top off on the highway this amp has the power you should be using .

The right way to properly do a bronco for best possible sound is to use a 6 channel amp and separate the 4 inch speakers from the kick panel speakers so each speakers is on their own channel . by doing this you can set power and tuneability to each speaker . when speakers are still daisy chained together you can not properly adjust one without effecting the other . Separating the wiring is easy . when using the metra 6 1/2 speaker plugs the outer wires connect to the 6 1/2 speakers and also feed the inner pins that goes to the 4 inch dash speakers. so by cutting the loop going to the inner pins you will have your 4 inch speakers wires already at the kick panel. Now just add some speaker wire from each kick panel to connect your dash speakers to channels 1-2 on the amp . I can also do it for your when buying a kit from me .

Using kit 35 musway 6 channel amp you will have 110 watts continuous power x 6 . You will have the power you need and will sound amazing with or without the top on

i hope this helps to understand what you get with each kit . i am a car guy as well as the owner and i want pepole to pick the right kit the first time and not buy the wrong option and regret it a month later .and have to buy new equipment and rip there car apart again because they picked the wrong kit

Any questions its always preferred to call in 203-889-1843 . M-F 10-6 EST
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plugnplaykits

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Red circle wires are your 4 inch speaker wires just add speaker wire to white and black wires to connect your 4 inch speakers separately on a six channel amplifier

IMG_6684.jpeg
 

burgerking

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Could I use a 4 channel amp on the front speakers and use the rear head unit power on the stock rear pods and as inputs 3 and 4 to the amp? Or would it be better to eliminate the rear pods?
 
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I can make a custom Harness that will allow you to use a four channel just to run the front speakers and then still keep the rears off the factory Audiocontrol module
 

bbowisbald

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So which Musway amp are you refering to?
 

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FreddieLee

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I'm going to guess that the most attractive thing about the Key amplifiers is where they mount, so instead of trying to peddle Musway amps, why don't you offer these guys a harness that allows the Key to be run in bi-amp mode, which is where the Key absolutely shines.

How big is the Musway, about 12x6? Half the folks purchasing Keys are new to car audio, so unless they have a subwoofer mounted on the tailgate, where do you propose they hide something that large?

Some of the loudest, most dynamic systems I have heard had speakers that were rated to handle anywhere from 30-80 watts RMS, but I suppose 110 watts sounds amazing to a noob.
 
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I’m far from a noob been doing Car Audio since the 90s you have no idea what you’re talking about . The MusWay amplifier is not big at all. If you know anything about Car Audio all the class D amplifiers are very small nowadays easily fits under the driver passenger seat even my eight channel will fit under there. . And yes, there are high-quality speakers that only handle that kind of power but are also anywhere from $500-$900 for an active three-way set and more which the average person is not going to pay. I actually do make a buy Amp harness if people want it, but the average person is not using that Amp in bi amp mode . By the way, if you know anything about cars, any convertible that’s higher end come with thousand watt factory stereo systems so 200 W in a noisy bronco on the highway for total power is not that loud .
 

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I'm going to guess that the most attractive thing about the Key amplifiers is where they mount, so instead of trying to peddle Musway amps, why don't you offer these guys a harness that allows the Key to be run in bi-amp mode, which is where the Key absolutely shines.

How big is the Musway, about 12x6? Half the folks purchasing Keys are new to car audio, so unless they have a subwoofer mounted on the tailgate, where do you propose they hide something that large?

Some of the loudest, most dynamic systems I have heard had speakers that were rated to handle anywhere from 30-80 watts RMS, but I suppose 110 watts sounds amazing to a noob.
I have the 4.100 Musway mounted under the driver seat. It's 6x9 and fits with room to spare. It's a damn good amp too. It's running Kicker KS series in the dash, kick panel and SVS pods in the rear+a 10" kicker powered sub. I had no issues installing with the PNP harness--was literally the same process as installing the Key.
 

FreddieLee

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I’m far from a noob been doing Car Audio since the 90s you have no idea what you’re talking about . The MusWay amplifier is not big at all. If you know anything about Car Audio all the class D amplifiers are very small nowadays easily fits under the driver passenger seat even my eight channel will fit under there. . And yes, there are high-quality speakers that only handle that kind of power but are also anywhere from $500-$900 for an active three-way set and more which the average person is not going to pay. I actually do make a buy Amp harness if people want it, but the average person is not using that Amp in bi amp mode . By the way, if you know anything about cars, any convertible that’s higher end come with thousand watt factory stereo systems so 200 W in a noisy bronco on the highway for total power is not that loud .
Rephrasing; 110 watts sounds amazing to the noobs you're trying to market to.

You don't advertise a bi-amp harness. Instead, you admittedly sell a harness that splits the wattage up front, and does absolutely nothing for the rear. The forum is plagued with those threads.

You're missing the point. For a lot of folks, the absolute draw to Key amplifiers is where they can be mounted, and hidden away, but here you are proposing that they purchase a larger amplifier, increasing cost, and adding another level of complexity to the installation.

The best bang for your buck for anyone that wants a bump up from the factory is a Key amplifier that can run in bi-amp mode, period.

For the record, I have Focal 3-way components, and run an active, 8-channel, DSP system in my Bronco. Integration, installation, and DSP tuning all done by yours truly, Bud.
 

FreddieLee

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I have the 4.100 Musway mounted under the driver seat. It's 6x9 and fits with room to spare. It's a damn good amp too. It's running Kicker KS series in the dash, kick panel and SVS pods in the rear+a 10" kicker powered sub. I had no issues installing with the PNP harness--was literally the same process as installing the Key.
I have an amp under both driver and passenger seats (for now). Integration with the factory head unit is the same, but installing a Key under the steering column compared to what's involved in installing an amplifier under a seat is apples and oranges.

I think I'm being misunderstood. The point I'm trying to make is the Key amplifier and the wattage it delivers is not the problem. How he configures the harness that he sells is the problem, and this is the same guy, with his 30 years of experience, that was originally selling the harness without a power source because he thought it could be powered by the factory head unit.

If he actually advertised and sold a bi-amp harness, this thread probably wouldn't exist because customers would probably be stoked with a full, rich and dynamic front stage.

If you're selling a harness than you know for a fact does not a single thing for the rear channels, and splits the wattage to the front channels, why not offer a bi-amp configuration? Boggles my mind...
 

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frdfan

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I have an amp under both driver and passenger seats (for now). Integration with the factory head unit is the same, but installing a Key under the steering column compared to what's involved in installing an amplifier under a seat is apples and oranges.

I think I'm being misunderstood. The point I'm trying to make is the Key amplifier and the wattage it delivers is not the problem. How he configures the harness that he sells is the problem, and this is the same guy, with his 30 years of experience, that was originally selling the harness without a power source because he thought it could be powered by the factory head unit.

If he actually advertised and sold a bi-amp harness, this thread probably wouldn't exist because customers would probably be stoked with a full, rich and dynamic front stage.

If you're selling a harness than you know for a fact does not a single thing for the rear channels, and splits the wattage to the front channels, why not offer a bi-amp configuration? Boggles my mind...
Considering the number of people on this forum that have purchased his kits, and benefitted from the after the sale customer service he provides, it seems that you are trying to make something out of nothing. Let him sell his products--if people buy them and they like what they get, great--they're helping out a small business. If they don't want to buy them, great as well..they'll find something that works for them--just as you did. Happy wheeling..
 

JimCA

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Thank you Joe for taking the time to write this up! After procrastinating and scratching my head for a year and a half, had decided a 6 channel Musway from you would suit my needs best. The write up confirmed my thoughts and the info on easily separating the front speakers sealed the deal. Will sort the rest of the system and will give you a call in the next few weeks!
 
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For those that want dsp amps the 4 channel m4+ and m6 6 channel are also an option And the DSP is also controllable from your phone With the best tech support by Musway that will help you properly tune, the amplifiers
 

Karl_in_Chicago

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For those that want dsp amps the 4 channel m4+ and m6 6 channel are also an option And the DSP is also controllable from your phone With the best tech support by Musway that will help you properly tune, the amplifiers
I like the M6 but don't need the speakers as I've already invested in those. I'm assuming you can custom package solutions with some of the components (your wiring harnesses, amp/dsp, etc.) vs the whole package? Thanks
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