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KICKER KEY 200.4 IN STOCK .

Medicin3man

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Yes, it’s a small amplifier to amplify your interior speakers, but if you did a 12 inch subwoofer with 1000 W kicker amp, the kicker key is too small of an amplifier to drive your interior speakers with that much bass you need to use my musway four channel amplifier to balance out that system
In addition to the already installed 1000W amp?
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CFALevelFore

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So are the new kicker key 200.4’s different in the fact that running power from the head unit is no longer an option? Or has nothing materially changed and running power from the battery is just a way to prevent clipping?
 

dms-loudounva

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Kicker key 200.4’s are now in stock . pre-orders started shipping today.. kicker key 200.4 are now coming with a power kit that includes 12 gauge power wire fuse in fuse holder, and the amp must be connected to the battery and no longer off the radio’s power .
Hi. For people that have the factory wiring for a subwoofer (the 2023 models that in the end came with dummy parts but wiring in place), does the 11-1 pnp kit affect anything?

Having taken the trouble to do the Fusion amp + Kicker 4 ohm subwoofer install in the factory location using the factory wiring, I want to make sure I'm not going to disable the subwoofer if I do the Key 200.4 install with your 11-1 kit.
 

Altitude

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I have the plugnplay kit with the AudioControl ACM 4.300 and have been happy with it once I narrowed down an issue to a pin that wasn't full seated and was causing audio to cut in and out. I know that the Kicker 200 is a popular choice in this application, but please be aware that Kicker advertises the amp to a minimum impedance of 4 ohms and running 4 ohm speakers in the dash and kick panel using factory wiring will impose a 2 ohm load at the amp. The AudioControl ACM 4.300 is stable to 2 ohms and should be an option to consider as well.
 

mike8675309

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So are the new kicker key 200.4’s different in the fact that running power from the head unit is no longer an option? Or has nothing materially changed and running power from the battery is just a way to prevent clipping?
What's been found is that with some systems it is possible for the amp to not have enough power for what it's being asked to do. The type of amp this is causes it to be very dependent on the amperage of the energy available. You see this in small audio amps for your stereo or headphones. They come with a power supply that is only 1.5 amps and that limits the performance of the amp. Get a power supply that supplies 5 amps and it can do amazing things.

This is the same thing with this amp. Running of the radio wire it can't pull enough amps to drive the amount of speakers people connect at the energy volume they ask for.
Giving the amp more power makes it possible for it to then achieve that need.

This is related to how electrical devices like the AMPS work. They only take as much as they can get. so they don't blow fuses, they just clip. Give it more power (current) and it'll use it.
 

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dms-loudounva

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I have the plugnplay kit with the AudioControl ACM 4.300 and have been happy with it once I narrowed down an issue to a pin that wasn't full seated and was causing audio to cut in and out. I know that the Kicker 200 is a popular choice in this application, but please be aware that Kicker advertises the amp to a minimum impedance of 4 ohms and running 4 ohm speakers in the dash and kick panel using factory wiring will impose a 2 ohm load at the amp. The AudioControl ACM 4.300 is stable to 2 ohms and should be an option to consider as well.
Uh oh I hadn't thought of that. Hmm. Though I'm guessing most people are doing exactly that (why Ford chose to do the front wiring this way is a mystery). I suppose you could bi-amp the front speakers but then no amp or DSP to the rear pods. And the DSP is a selling point for me as the Bronco interior isn't exactly made for audio quality.

The plot thickens...
 

Bronkers

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Kicker key 200.4’s are now in stock . pre-orders started shipping today.. kicker key 200.4 are now coming with a power kit that includes 12 gauge power wire fuse in fuse holder, and the amp must be connected to the battery and no longer off the radio’s power .
Can you send link to this (assuming there's a version for non-B&O)? Or is it out of stock again? Going thru vehicle config yields no results that appear compatible with non-B&O Bronco. All I see is bronco sport, Ranger, explorer, general B&O items...
 

Altitude

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etmccaus86

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I have the plugnplay kit with the AudioControl ACM 4.300 and have been happy with it once I narrowed down an issue to a pin that wasn't full seated and was causing audio to cut in and out. I know that the Kicker 200 is a popular choice in this application, but please be aware that Kicker advertises the amp to a minimum impedance of 4 ohms and running 4 ohm speakers in the dash and kick panel using factory wiring will impose a 2 ohm load at the amp. The AudioControl ACM 4.300 is stable to 2 ohms and should be an option to consider as well.
Which kit did you purchase? Looks like I can snag the 4.300 at a decent price locally, so would want to just buy the necessary harness to install it.
 

Altitude

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Which kit did you purchase? Looks like I can snag the 4.300 at a decent price locally, so would want to just buy the necessary harness to install it.
I called and just had him make me one that met my specific needs. I had a 3 or 4 foot harness with the ACM amp and then an additional 17 feet of high level speaker wire to hook up the amp that I have in the back for the sub. The amp easily fit under the dash, above the glovebox on a scrap acrylic sheet plate and some CCF glued to it for cushion and zip tied.

363987478_10227453527337326_2619387097144721399_n.jpg
 

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6inthefamily

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Just received my Key 200.4 and harness in the mail today. Thanks PNPkits for making this an easy upgrade for us!

We don’t even have 1000 miles on my wife’s 2023 yet, but it only took about 5 min to realize this OEM high package audio was underpowered distortion filled crapola!
 

etmccaus86

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I called and just had him make me one that met my specific needs. I had a 3 or 4 foot harness with the ACM amp and then an additional 17 feet of high level speaker wire to hook up the amp that I have in the back for the sub. The amp easily fit under the dash, above the glovebox on a scrap acrylic sheet plate and some CCF glued to it for cushion and zip tied.

Ford Bronco KICKER KEY 200.4 IN STOCK . 363987478_10227453527337326_2619387097144721399_n
Thanks. Already have a mounting plate from Mountains2Metal that should work for tucking it away. Will give him a call.
 

ericwayne

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When not hooked up directly to the battery. The amp could clip at high volumes.
I'm confused as where to route the new harness....has anyone put together a video or cheatsheet? I am sure it's not that difficult, I just like to map things out before I begin.

Thanks!
 

Dadsquatch

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HotdogThud

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@HotdogThud did you get the straight battery harness hooked up? How’s it sounding?
PS - Think I just saw you drive through the intersection of 24th & Camelback around noon today.
Lol, yep that was me. Gotta get my Matt's big breakfast.

And yes, hooked up the new harness about a week ago and it is a *phenomenal* difference. no more clipping at 18-19 volume, lows actually hit consistently, and the highs are a ton brighter now.
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