Lets talk Load Range and comfort...

[kodiakisland]

What is the benefit of a load E tire or F? Y’all are putting 1 ton truck tires on a little SUV (12 ply tires). Why? If you don’t have a good enough reason than put the manufacturer spec tire on it. This horse has been beat to death in the Jeep world for sometime. I just went through this with my old wrangler. There are fewer and fewer load range C tires in 15” for my Jeep. A lot of people have tried load range E and regret it on the Jeeps. I stuck with a C tire and I’m glad I did, rides good and airs down nicely (gives a nice footprint). At some point I might have to switch to a 17” wheel on my Jeep to get enough selection to find a C tire, 15’s are just slowly going away. I’ve read that many E tires won’t even begin to bulge the sidewall until they get down to less than 10 PSI (with a Wrangler sized vehicle). Everyone who is buying F tires isn’t buying them for function but rather for form. You are correct, to each their own. Here is a picture of my tires with 12 PSI, ended up going to 8 later and they were perfect in the dunes. Our Bronco was at 12 PSI with C tires and did fantastic, probably should have went lower with them also. C range is fantastic on and off-road and matched to the weight of our Bronco’s (and Jeeps).

Again, again, etc., run what you like and what works for you. I don't think you genuinely want to know why anyone runs anything other than what you do. The places I go and the things I do, I want thicker, heavier construction. At proper PSI, they work great on and off road. If you only want C, great. Really. Stick to what you know.

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[BroncoBarn]

Again, again, etc., run what you like and what works for you. I don't think you genuinely want to know why anyone runs anything other than what you do. The places I go and the things I do, I want thicker, heavier construction. At proper PSI, they work great on and off road. If you only want C, great. Really. Stick to what you know.

I’m not being a smarty pants, but where do you go that a 12 ply tire works better or is needed. I’m being serious, I want to be prepared.

 

[AZ_Liberty]

What is the benefit of a load E tire or F? Y’all are putting 1 ton truck tires on a little SUV (12 ply tires). Why? If you don’t have a good enough reason than put the manufacturer spec tire on it.

Because manufacturer tires are soft squishy garbage. They puncture the first time you drive over a twig or cactus spine. Absolute trash.

A truck should have truck tires. I've got E rated tires on my 2WD Expedition.

 

[Lucky13!]

My Bronco came pre-modified from the dealership to the specifications of the original reservation holder when they ordered. It is a 2 door Badlands with Sasquatch, 2.3/auto, lux, and leather. Per the customer request they added a 1” leveling kit, Ford Performance hood scoop and fender flares, and most importantly for this discussion, 35/12.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler (load range E) on 20x10 Fuel Blitz wheels. That customer backed out before delivery and I picked up my Bronco from the dealership back in March.

I put 5000 miles on it since I got it. Fuel mileage was good -19.8 lifetime, acceleration and braking were fine, road noise was good, and the whole package made my Bronco unique. The ride however was really stiff, the wheels/tires really heavy (115 pounds per,) and the position of the spare on the gate (pretty far out with the wheel offset) combined with the weight caused me some concern. Despite lowering the pressures down to 32 per tire I still couldn’t take the edge off due to the 10 ply construction and low sidewall. I used extreme caution off road as well as it seemed jarring enough I was concerned for longevity of components.

For these reasons over the weekend I changed wheels and tires from those described above to the 17x9 Fuel Blitz (because I really liked that wheel on the Bronco when I bought it) and a 315/70x17 BFG KO2 (load range C)

I’ve had the KO2 on 3 different Raptors in this size and 2 different Jeeps in a 285 series and they’ve always done extremely well. They’ve worn well, last long (40,000+ on all vehicles,) gotten me through all on/off road situations I’ve encountered, and rode beautifully. Words could not describe the difference they made to the Bronco. The 10/12 ply range E/F on a small, light weight vehicle are overkill in my opinion. But as others have said, go with what’s right for you.

If you decide you want to try the E, let me know. I’ve got a great set for sale now!

Great info, thanks for the reply.

 

[kodiakisland]

I’m not being a smarty pants, but where do you go that a 12 ply tire works better or is needed. I’m being serious, I want to be prepared.

First off, ply ratings are not actual plies, so no one is really driving around on 12 plies anymore. Tire construction in the heavier load rating is usually stronger in most areas, but not necessarily noticeable when you dissect the tire. Some Toyos only differ by 1-3 lbs from C to E rating, but are constructed differently to add strength in certain areas.

So where do I go? Just about everywhere. Usually solo. Usually in remote areas. Usually on unimproved trails. Many old logging skidder trails and decommissioned forest service roads. most full of all kinds of trash that loves to poke holes or slice sidewalls. I've gotten multiple flats at once in remote areas. I don't like walking. Load E tires work when you get the right tire for the application, but isn't that the point? Get what works for YOU.

In May I was in Idaho solo for a week. I saw one other person in a week. Next month I will be in Montana solo for a week and hope to not see anyone while there as well. Almost every other week I'm on trails here solo in areas with no cell coverage.

I use what works for me. I've tried a lot of stuff myself and determined what I do and do not want and what fits my use. I encourage people to use what works for them.

 

[BroncoBarn]

First off, ply ratings are not actual plies, so no one is really driving around on 12 plies anymore. Tire construction in the heavier load rating is usually stronger in most areas, but not necessarily noticeable when you dissect the tire. Some Toyos only differ by 1-3 lbs from C to E rating, but are constructed differently to add strength in certain areas.

So where do I go? Just about everywhere. Usually solo. Usually in remote areas. Usually on unimproved trails. Many old logging skidder trails and decommissioned forest service roads. most full of all kinds of trash that loves to poke holes or slice sidewalls. I've gotten multiple flats at once in remote areas. I don't like walking. Load E tires work when you get the right tire for the application, but isn't that the point? Get what works for YOU.

In May I was in Idaho solo for a week. I saw one other person in a week. Next month I will be in Montana solo for a week and hope to not see anyone while there as well. Almost every other week I'm on trails here solo in areas with no cell coverage.

I use what works for me. I've tried a lot of stuff myself and determined what I do and do not want and what fits my use. I encourage people to use what works for them.

Cool!

 

[BroncoBarn]

Because manufacturer tires are soft squishy garbage. They puncture the first time you drive over a twig or cactus spine. Absolute trash.

A truck should have truck tires. I've got E rated tires on my 2WD Expedition.

Which tires are soft squishy garbage? BFG KO2’s?

 

[Tricky Dick]

Which tires are soft squishy garbage? BFG KO2’s?

The Territories. Too light, quite a few have been punctured already.

 

[AZ_Liberty]

Which tires are soft squishy garbage? BFG KO2’s?

Anything with a P instead of LT rating.

 

[JediMcMuffin]

The Territories. Too light, quite a few have been punctured already.

I did puncture my MTs on my very first gravel truck trail. Certainly didn't expect to need to airdown on a trail like that one. I've since dropped road pressure down to 36ish, and am much happier there. I've dropped them down to 18 or so to cruise through the sand wash and do some rock crawling without issue. I will run them until they're fried, then probably go to K02.

 

[ctandc]

My Bronco came pre-modified from the dealership to the specifications of the original reservation holder when they ordered. It is a 2 door Badlands with Sasquatch, 2.3/auto, lux, and leather. Per the customer request they added a 1” leveling kit, Ford Performance hood scoop and fender flares, and most importantly for this discussion, 35/12.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler (load range E) on 20x10 Fuel Blitz wheels. That customer backed out before delivery and I picked up my Bronco from the dealership back in March.

I put 5000 miles on it since I got it. Fuel mileage was good -19.8 lifetime, acceleration and braking were fine, road noise was good, and the whole package made my Bronco unique. The ride however was really stiff, the wheels/tires really heavy (115 pounds per,) and the position of the spare on the gate (pretty far out with the wheel offset) combined with the weight caused me some concern. Despite lowering the pressures down to 32 per tire I still couldn’t take the edge off due to the 10 ply construction and low sidewall. I used extreme caution off road as well as it seemed jarring enough I was concerned for longevity of components.

For these reasons over the weekend I changed wheels and tires from those described above to the 17x9 Fuel Blitz (because I really liked that wheel on the Bronco when I bought it) and a 315/70x17 BFG KO2 (load range C)

I’ve had the KO2 on 3 different Raptors in this size and 2 different Jeeps in a 285 series and they’ve always done extremely well. They’ve worn well, last long (40,000+ on all vehicles,) gotten me through all on/off road situations I’ve encountered, and rode beautifully. Words could not describe the difference they made to the Bronco. The 10/12 ply range E/F on a small, light weight vehicle are overkill in my opinion. But as others have said, go with what’s right for you.

If you decide you want to try the E, let me know. I’ve got a great set for sale now!

The main difference in rice harshness you experienced was a 20” tire vs a 17” tire. Look at how much sidewall you have now vs the 20’s.

Increasing load range ( alone ) on a tire does not increase the harshness of the ride.
Tire construction varies per manufacturer and tire model etc.

I can tell you that MANY of the trucks, Jeeps and now Broncos you see riding around that have larger tires and wheels are likely riding around with load range D and E tires overinflated for the application.

I had preordered the tires for our 22 BB. The day we picked it up we were at Discount Tire getting the new wheels / tires mounted.
I requested they set pressure at 32psi. (E rated). The manager came out and spoke with me and relayed how many times they installed upgraded tire / wheels or addressed drive ability concerns with installs and many times the air pressure was way too high. He had a laminated chart with guidelines for Load Range vs GVW vs PSI because of this. He said people routinely ignored him and the chart, people who didn’t know what load range was, but were quoting a friend or something they read on the internet.

 

[equitasforall]

The main difference in rice harshness you experienced was a 20” tire vs a 17” tire. Look at how much sidewall you have now vs the 20’s.

I agree completely and had even mentioned that in my post where I referenced not being able to soften it up due to a combination of construction and low sidewall, which is one of the biggest reasons I changed them out. Was the right move for me, may not be the right one for others. For me I never would have started with a 20 on there but as the dealership had already installed them they weren’t going to swap them for another set. I gave them a shot and moved on.

 

[Mortonm]

I dont have my Bronco yet but have run 3 different sets of 235 85 R16 (load range E) on two Xterras, which are lighter than the bronco.

No issues at all with ride quality.

 

[‘21OBX]

What is the benefit of a load E tire or F? Y’all are putting 1 ton truck tires on a little SUV (12 ply tires). Why? If you don’t have a good enough reason than put the manufacturer spec tire on it. This horse has been beat to death in the Jeep world for sometime. I just went through this with my old wrangler. There are fewer and fewer load range C tires in 15” for my Jeep. A lot of people have tried load range E and regret it on the Jeeps. I stuck with a C tire and I’m glad I did, rides good and airs down nicely (gives a nice footprint). At some point I might have to switch to a 17” wheel on my Jeep to get enough selection to find a C tire, 15’s are just slowly going away. I’ve read that many E tires won’t even begin to bulge the sidewall until they get down to less than 10 PSI (with a Wrangler sized vehicle). Everyone who is buying F tires isn’t buying them for function but rather for form. You are correct, to each their own. Here is a picture of my tires with 12 PSI, ended up going to 8 later and they were perfect in the dunes. Our Bronco was at 12 PSI with C tires and did fantastic, probably should have went lower with them also. C range is fantastic on and off-road and matched to the weight of our Bronco’s (and Jeeps).

One reason it’s hard to find a load range C in certain sizes. Or the price is $100 more per tire. On the fuel tires (dealer choice not ours) they don’t seem like an F or even E they ride softer for sure. I’m also not running 80psi in them. And the sidewall seems pretty flexible. These are also an off road mud tire. Not an AT that might make some of the difference.

 

[Trino351c]

LOAD RANGE AND PLY RATING
Tire experts use a few different classifications to describe a tire’s ability to hold air pressure and carry weight. Load range is one of these and describes how much weight a tire can carry. It’s listed on the sidewall of your tire, represented by a letter.

This letter tire load rating gives you a comparative idea of the tire’s toughness; helping you understand how much air your tire can hold, how much weight it can carry and a relative measure of the tire’s durability. Tires with a higher load range can carry heavier loads.

Load range is based on an older measurement called ply rating. All tires are constructed of rubber and cord layers referred to as "plies". Historically, more plies gave a tire a larger load carrying capacity, so manufacturers would count the plies and use this number to denote this measurement.

However, modern tire construction uses fewer, stronger plies. Therefore, load range simply defines the tire’s toughness and maximum allowable air pressure, as opposed to specific information about the actual plies being used. For example, a "C" load range indicates that a tire is equivalent to a 6-ply construction tire. This tire isn’t actually built with 6 plies, but rather one or two plies of equivalent strength.

The load range is indicated by a letter on your sidewall but it is also accompanied by a number to indicate the max air pressure the tire can take. Using the above "C" example, you may see a "C1" or "C2". "C1" and "C2" are both 6 ply rated, but C1 has a max air pressure of 50 PSI and C2 has a max air pressure of 35 PSI. This holds true for other ply ratings too.

It’s best to have a tire expert make sure your tires are properly rated to support the weight of your vehicle.

Check our load range chart, which notes the ply rating and the max load carrying air pressure.

Load Range and Ply Rating
Load Range	Ply Rating	Max Load Carrying Air Pressure
Standard Load (SL)	4	@ 36 PSI
Extra Load (XL)	4	@ 42 PSI
C1	6	@ 50 PSI
C2	6	@ 35 PSI
D1	8	@ 65 PSI
D2	8	@ 50 PSI
E1	10	@ 80 PSI
E2	10	@ 65 PSI
F1	12	@ 95 PSI
G	14	@ 110 PSI

LOAD INDEX AND LOAD CARRYING CAPACITY
Load index is another way to further describe a tire’s carrying capacity. The load index explicitly indicates the max load a tire can carry. To find your tire’s carrying capacity, look for the load index number on the sidewall. Load index is a more precise method of measurement than load range which focuses mostly on construction.

The load index number indicates a tire’s carrying capacity when inflated to maximum load sustaining pressure. It further explains the tire load range measurement by adding more specifics to the rating.

Find your tire’s load-bearing capacity by checking our load index chart below. Most cars and light trucks have load index values ranging from 70-124.

Load Index and Carrying Capacity
Load Index	Carrying Capacity (lbs)	Load Index	Carrying Capacity (lbs)	Load Index	Carrying Capacity (lbs)
0	99	50	419	100	1764
1	102	51	430	101	1819
2	105	52	441	102	1874
3	107	53	454	103	1929
4	110	54	467	104	1984
5	114	55	481	105	2039
6	117	56	494	106	2094
7	120	57	507	107	2149
8	123	58	520	108	2205
9	128	59	536	109	2271
10	132	60	551	110	2337
11	136	61	567	111	2403
12	139	62	584	112	2469
13	143	63	600	113	2535
14	148	64	617	114	2601
15	152	65	639	115	2679
16	157	66	639	116	2756
17	161	67	677	117	2833
18	165	68	694	118	2910
19	171	69	716	119	2998
20	176	70	739	120	3086
21	182	71	761	121	3197
22	187	72	783	122	3307
23	193	73	805	123	3417
24	198	74	827	124	3527
25	204	75	852	125	3638
26	209	76	882	126	3748
27	215	77	908	127	3858
28	220	78	937	128	3968
29	227	79	963	129	4079
30	234	80	992	130	4189
31	240	81	1019	131	4289
32	247	82	1047	132	4409
33	254	83	1074	133	4541
34	260	84	1102	134	4674
35	267	85	1135	135	4806
36	276	86	1168	136	4938
37	282	87	1201	137	5071
38	291	88	1235	138	5203
39	300	89	1279	139	5357
40	309	90	1323	140	5512
41	320	91	1356	141	5677
42	331	92	1389	142	5842
43	342	93	1433	143	6008
44	353	94	1477	144	6173
45	364	95	1521	145	6393
46	375	96	1565	146	6614
47	386	97	1609	147	6779
48	397	98	1653	148	6844
49	408	99	1709	149	7165
				150	7385

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