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Bill K

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Incidentally, I’m watching Matt’s Recovery on YT right now and they are pulling a Tacoma from the front. They chose NOT to use the Tacoma’s front shackles.

on the bronco with the steel bumper, are the shackle mounts connected to the bumper or to the frame?
When I pulled my bumper off and redid these for flat towing, they were connected to the frame...
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UncleBuck

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Did you have you rope folded in half? Use the full length of rope to get the most stretch and mechanical advantage of the "rubber band" effect. I'd also ease into it a little more instead or slamming it. Also as others have said, hook up to your rear to pull. Pulling backwards is harder on your transmission.

I keep a Yankum tow point in my rig that I can put on someone else's rig or on my own rig for a nicely centered and secure pulling location if needed so I don't rip off a ball hitch and kill anyone.

Glad you were able to help out a fellow off road enthusiast out in the wild.
 

RobWTX

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So here is a question that I may have missed an answer too.
Would a tow strap vs a kinetic rope/strap be safer (not using the strap as a kinetic rope, get it tight, then pull the other vehicle out). Less of a sudden force on the anchor points that could break and fly towards either vehicle?
 
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Here is a pull I did for some Jeep that went off trail. I used my rear toe hook, soft shackles, kentic rope. Barely pulled and it came off the rock. Thinking back I should have told the kids in the Jeep to get out in case something broke or flew. Everyone around the scene was also very far away in case something snapped. Very easy pull, not the hardest one I’ve done. Looking forward to this upcoming wheeling season!

very nice. Slow and smooth. How the heck did they get over those rocks in the first place?
 

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CrystalRedTintCoat

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Did you have you rope folded in half? Use the full length of rope to get the most stretch and mechanical advantage of the "rubber band" effect. I'd also ease into it a little more instead or slamming it. Also as others have said, hook up to your rear to pull. Pulling backwards is harder on your transmission.
FOLDED - If I'm honest, we did try it folded however, in the video posted above, it was not folded.

SLAMMING - thank you for the 'easing into it tip'. I was clearly slamming and a bit concerned that wasn't just right. I like the 5MPH suggestions I've seen here. To that end, should we have some slack in the kinetic rope /before/ pulling? I

I keep a Yankum tow point in my rig that I can put on someone else's rig or on my own rig for a nicely centered and secure pulling location if needed so I don't rip off a ball hitch and kill anyone.
I have this, but didn't use it. :-O
https://customsplice.com/products/2-hitch-receiver-shackle-adapter?_pos=3&_psq=2"&_ss=e&_v=1.0
 

userdude

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So here is a question that I may have missed an answer too.
Would a tow strap vs a kinetic rope/strap be safer (not using the strap as a kinetic rope, get it tight, then pull the other vehicle out). Less of a sudden force on the anchor points that could break and fly towards either vehicle?
I too have this question. Above in all the recovery videos I posted, some say go right to the kinetic pull. But others say kinetic recovery is your last resort.

Equally important, I think, is to maximize your system to the lowest weighted vehicle. CLEARLY with my 19,000 pound bubba rope it was NOT designed to pull at 7500 pickup truck. Math: 19,000 / 3.5 = 5,429 and 19,000 / 4.0 = 4,750. But, if I used a heavier rope, the 'light' Bronco (what is it, 4,000 pounds?) wouldn't be able to get enough stretch to pull the truck. I think the next biggest kinetic rope that Bubba makes is something like 28,600 pounds. I've seen some folks on the internets suggest Jeeps carry a kinetic rope rated to that weight, 28,600. HOWEVER, Bubba offers a "recovery kit" which comes with a 19,000 pound kinetic rope in their "Jeep" recovery kit.
 

BadlandsA51

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seen..
Yes gears are weakest in reverse. They basically try to separate themselves.
Actually the gears are as strong in reverse as in low gear in any transmission I’ve ever seen. They don’t have any forces acting on them that are unique to forward gears. On most transmissions however, reverse isn’t as low of a ratio as low gear so you will have more pulling power in low.
 

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GI_Jo_Nathan

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Actually the gears are as strong in reverse as in low gear in any transmission I’ve ever seen. They don’t have any forces acting on them that are unique to forward gears. On most transmissions however, reverse isn’t as low of a ratio as low gear so you will have more pulling power in low.
Sorry I was actually referring to the differential gears.
 

UncleBuck

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FOLDED - If I'm honest, we did try it folded however, in the video posted above, it was not folded.

SLAMMING - thank you for the 'easing into it tip'. I was clearly slamming and a bit concerned that wasn't just right. I like the 5MPH suggestions I've seen here. To that end, should we have some slack in the kinetic rope /before/ pulling? I



I have this, but didn't use it. :-O
https://customsplice.com/products/2-hitch-receiver-shackle-adapter?_pos=3&_psq=2"&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Sorry for my typo even though you got what I was saying (instead OF slamming...lol). I believe the best case scenario and some manufacturer recommendations is about 6 feet of slack to start. Check out this video with Factor55 for great information on recovery using a kinetic rope and soft shackles. This is from a different youtuber's channel but it's got really great information.
 

kodiakisland

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OK, so the not pulling in reverse is because the hypoid gears in a differential are cut specifically for one direction. Obviously they work in both directions, but are far stronger for the direction they are designed for. The front diff is opposite the rear. Both are cut for the vehicle moving forward. When you pull a vehicle in reverse, you put far more stress on the front diff than what it may be designed for.

It has nothing to do with transmission gears.

On a recovery vehicle that is used more for recovery than recreational 4WD use, they will use gears cut for a rear diff in the front differential. This makes the front diff stronger in reverse, which meets the designed use of the vehicle. That way they can pull from either direction without adding undue stress to the diffs.

In short, pull going forward if at all possible. If not you may regret it.

As far as the technique with the rope, I would not be yanking anyone with my vehicle and I don't want mine yanked either. The point is recovery and not more broken stuff.
 
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Sorry for my typo even though you got what I was saying (instead OF slamming...lol). I believe the best case scenario and some manufacturer recommendations is about 6 feet of slack to start. Check out this video with Factor55 for great information on recovery using a kinetic rope and soft shackles. This is from a different youtuber's channel but it's got really great information.
That video is spectacular. THANK YOU!!! 🙏
 

kodiakisland

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Another tip is to carry a real shovel. Two if you know there's plenty of snow. Some people only have small digging tools which work OK at times, but that truck could have dug his way out easy enough with a good shovel.
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