Thoughts on Body Lifts with the broncos IFS

[NJNMDoc]

I think the photo with the non-modular bumper looks weird because that bumper is not flat across the top like the modular and most aftermarkets are. We'll see how they look with a JCR front bumper and a Winch soon enough. The only problem with relocating the bumpers in my case is the ACC is not compatible in it's current location. I tried one of the relocation brackets behind the grill and it wasn't good.

Like I said, I can always revert back to 0.5" if I'm not happy with it.

Yup. The ACC is THE big issue with the bumper relocation. If I didn’t have it it would have been a no-brainer.

I also agree that the gap filler will look much better with a modular or aftermarket steel bumper.

I actually like the 3” filler better visually and I also like the lighted option. They look very good.

Hence I’m anxiously awaiting your field report! If it looks good with a steel bumper I think it would be a strong option because it keeps the HOSS 3.0 intact.

I would also really like to here from anyone else that’s RPG’d a HOSS 3.0.

One poster seems to have said that the 3”/2.25” collars did not impact their ride quality. I would like to hear others chime in on that that have done it. As well as if the 2.25/1.5” collars are sufficient to wheel moderate + with 37s.

I’ll start a new post to ask that and see if anyone responds.

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[V1Rotate]

Yup. The ACC is THE big issue with the bumper relocation. If I didn’t have it it would have been a no-brainer.

I also agree that the gap filler will look much better with a modular or aftermarket steel bumper.

I actually like the 3” filler better visually and I also like the lighted option. They look very good.

Hence I’m anxiously awaiting your field report! If it looks good with a steel bumper I think it would be a strong option because it keeps the HOSS 3.0 intact.

I would also really like to here from anyone else that’s RPG’d a HOSS 3.0.

One poster seems to have said that the 3”/2.25” collars did not impact their ride quality. I would like to hear others chime in on that that have done it. As well as if the 2.25/1.5” collars are sufficient to wheel moderate + with 37s.

I’ll start a new post to ask that and see if anyone responds.

I always forget not everyone has the poor man’s mid package like mine and has to deal with ACC, etc. That would be a pain when dealing with stuff like this (and plenty of other mods).. glad I don’t have it!

I can’t speak from direct experience as I don’t have 3” perch collars on HOSS 3.0 but anyone who says it doesn’t have any impact on ride quality is either lying or is so oblivious to the way things feel that they don’t know the difference.
I’ve got a zone 2” on my HOSS 2.0 (combo perch collar + spacer) plus the 3/4” body lift and I can tell you I COULD jam 37’s in there if I wanted (did a TON of measuring and poking around in various situations w/ articulation) but there’s no chance you’re gonna be rub free without some serious action from a Sawzall and angle grinder If you do any actual off-road. The two biggest wolves at the door are the rearmost crash-bar stub in the front wheel well as well as the giant hunk of plastic that the felt liner clips to in the rear of the front wheel as well.
We wheel ours a lot so I’m totally content with full articulation with a true 35 vs. a 37. To do 37’s correctly we’re looking at significantly more than a perch collar or spacer lift. Juice just isn’t worth the squeeze at the present for me as that’ll be $$$.
Assuming it’s a very similar fit w/ HOSS 3.0 as not much else in the grand design changed.

 

[NJNMDoc]

I always forget not everyone has the poor man’s mid package like mine and has to deal with ACC, etc. That would be a pain when dealing with stuff like this (and plenty of other mods).. glad I don’t have it!

I can’t speak from direct experience as I don’t have 3” perch collars on HOSS 3.0 but anyone who says it doesn’t have any impact on ride quality is either lying or is so oblivious to the way things feel that they don’t know the difference.
I’ve got a zone 2” on my HOSS 2.0 (combo perch collar + spacer) plus the 3/4” body lift and I can tell you I COULD jam 37’s in there if I wanted (did a TON of measuring and poking around in various situations w/ articulation) but there’s no chance you’re gonna be rub free without some serious action from a Sawzall and angle grinder If you do any actual off-road. The two biggest wolves at the door are the rearmost crash-bar stub in the front wheel well as well as the giant hunk of plastic that the felt liner clips to in the rear of the front wheel as well.
We wheel ours a lot so I’m totally content with full articulation with a true 35 vs. a 37. To do 37’s correctly we’re looking at significantly more than a perch collar or spacer lift. Juice just isn’t worth the squeeze at the present for me as that’ll be $$$.
Assuming it’s a very similar fit w/ HOSS 3.0 as not much else in the grand design changed.

Super helpful man... I appreciate your response!

The alternative might be the 2.25/1.5 collars for minimum impact and a true 35".

The minimum I would think would be the RC 1" level kit with the under shock spacers and the very thin top spacers. That's a reasonable option probably with the 35s.

 

[Njchris1968]

Decided to do a 2” body lift I orders the Ranger bolts got a deal at 11 a piece and was able to pick up at a dealer so no shipping. I removed the washer from both just used vise grips and impact. I had some 3” plastic nylon rod that I had from making boat rollers. I cut them on my chop saw and then drilled 14mm hole in center jacked up stuck them in and lowered and torque to 75ft lbs. not to bad took about 2 hours total and they was digging out tools And such. I still have a good 20” left is I decide I want to go taller or lower. Definitely would not go over 2-3/4 but you could get 3” if you do take the washer off the new bolts. With the bolts I got I don’t think you be able to do 1 inch unless u added a spacer below the washer and that’s my plan for a friends 1” lift I’m going to do.

 

[murphtron]

Great thread. One question though: is there a post or video that shows how to do a Bronco body lift?

I’m not gonna do this now (I’m still waiting, build date is April 17). But if I do decide I want more this has been a great discussion in body vs suspension lifts. Honestly I’m gonna initially stick with my 4dr BL with 33s and figure out if I develop the skill and desire to go bigger.

 

[Bird Dog Off Road]

Great thread. One question though: is there a post or video that shows how to do a Bronco body lift?

I’m not gonna do this now (I’m still waiting, build date is April 17). But if I do decide I want more this has been a great discussion in body vs suspension lifts. Honestly I’m gonna initially stick with my 4dr BL with 33s and figure out if I develop the skill and desire to go bigger.

I've got one that is more of an overview, but I have links in the description to a couple others I used for reference as well.

 

[Njchris1968]

Adding some before and after pics.

Before the lift.

After the lift before raising the bumper

Raised the rear bumper 2 inches I did leave the front bumper alone.For now. Over all was very easy and probably the cheapest quickest most worthy mod so far.

Decided to do a 2” body lift I orders the Ranger bolts got a deal at 11 a piece and was able to pick up at a dealer so no shipping. I removed the washer from both just used vise grips and impact. I had some 3” plastic nylon rod that I had from making boat rollers. I cut them on my chop saw and then drilled 14mm hole in center jacked up stuck them in and lowered and torque to 75ft lbs. not to bad took about 2 hours total and they was digging out tools And such. I still have a good 20” left is I decide I want to go taller or lower. Definitely would not go over 2-3/4 but you could get 3” if you do take the washer off the new bolts. With the bolts I got I don’t think you be able to do 1 inch unless u added a spacer below the washer and that’s my plan for a friends 1” lift I’m going to do.

 

[Cgybronc]

I just did a 3/4” body lift to compliment my 2” Zone lift and used Mikellisbodylifts.com for the pucks. 3” diameter by 3/4” (or whatever height you want) and a 1/2” hole. They fit perfectly. I ordered replacement front bolts 150mm M12x1.75 from fastenal and picked up locally for $4.97 (the warehouse guy gave me their cost when I picked them up), all 6 rear bolts are plenty long to add up to an inch at least. Pucks cost me $35 shipped And got here in about a week. The stock front bolts IMO aren’t long enough to add any sort of lift to.. just won’t get a ton of thread engagement and they’re too cheap to mess with not doing it. One more tip would be to use a bottle or scissor jack that lifts the body straight up off the frame as when using a floor jack it pulls the body ever so slightly out of alignment as it rises and makes it hard to get the bolts started. The whole thing took me about an hour and $39. Here’s the link to the front bolts https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/0122038

So your positive the 6 rear bolts are long enough to go up to 1" of lift? By that adage the 192mm bolts from the Ranger should work with a 3" body lift?

Stock bolts 134mm (-1" for spacer or 25.4mm) leaves 108.6mm of "unused" bolt including engaged thread.
Ranger bolts 192mm (-3" for spacer or 76.2mm) leaves 115.8mm of "unused" bolt including engaged thread.
Even if 3/4" was the safe limit on stock bolts (or 19.05mm) that still leaves 114.95mm of "unused" bolt including engaged thread. In both cases the 192mm bolt should have more engagement.

Someone please tell me my math is correct so I can quit over thinking this and just buy the damn bolts already. Lol. I have most of the parts already so I'm getting down to the nitty gritty.

 

[V1Rotate]

So your positive the 6 rear bolts are long enough to go up to 1" of lift? By that adage the 192mm bolts from the Ranger should work with a 3" body lift?

Stock bolts 134mm (-1" for spacer or 25.4mm) leaves 108.6mm of "unused" bolt including engaged thread.
Ranger bolts 192mm (-3" for spacer or 76.2mm) leaves 115.8mm of "unused" bolt including engaged thread.
Even if 3/4" was the safe limit on stock bolts (or 19.05mm) that still leaves 114.95mm of "unused" bolt including engaged thread. In both cases the 192mm bolt should have more engagement.

Someone please tell me my math is correct so I can quit over thinking this and just buy the damn bolts already. Lol. I have most of the parts already so I'm getting down to the nitty gritty.

In my own personal experience the 6 rear bolts would absolutely be long enough to go another 1/4” over the 3/4” blocks I installed.
You could check by backing out one now and seeing how much bolt comes out and subtract an inch to see where it would be

 

[Cgybronc]

In my own personal experience the 6 rear bolts would absolutely be long enough to go another 1/4” over the 3/4” blocks I installed.
You could check by backing out one now and seeing how much bolt comes out and subtract an inch to see where it would be

Thanks for your input. Even at 3/4”, like you went, the ranger bolts should have more engagement at 3”. I think I’m going to go for it.

 

[V1Rotate]

Thanks for your input. Even at 3/4”, like you went, the ranger bolts should have more engagement at 3”. I think I’m going to go for it.

Longer is not necessarily better as the bolts are not threaded all the way to the head.. if you buy bolts that are TOO long you could end up bottoming out the threads before it gets tight

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

If ISUZU did 37 successfully back in 1999 why can't Ford get it right .

I owned one and put the first 36s on it...great trucks, way ahead of their time.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Here's my thoughts.

At least we're not seeing the majority slapping 3"+ body lifts on Broncos.

I WONT run a body lift PERIOD. Even with 40s.

The only advantage I've ever seen is by using a small 1" (or less) SOFT rubber spacer for the purpose of increasing frame flex.
This actually works well.

For anything else it is a mall crawler upgrade as far as I'm concerned.

 

[V1Rotate]

Here's my thoughts.

At least we're not seeing the majority slapping 3"+ body lifts on Broncos.

I WONT run a body lift PERIOD. Even with 40s.

The only advantage I've ever seen is by using a small 1" (or less) SOFT rubber spacer for the purpose of increasing frame flex.
This actually works well.

For anything else it is a mall crawler upgrade as far as I'm concerned.

pretty ignorant statement but what else is new! Haha the internet is full of it.
A small (3/4”) body lift combined with a small (2”) suspension lift is a great way to clear 37’s with full articulation off-road and maintain closer to stock geo. Guess I should get off the dirt/rocks and get back to the mall asap.. glad you talked some sense into me, I was lost

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

pretty ignorant statement but what else is new! Haha the internet is full of it.
A small (3/4”) body lift combined with a small (2”) suspension lift is a great way to clear 37’s with full articulation off-road and maintain closer to stock geo. Guess I should get off the dirt/rocks and get back to the mall asap.. glad you talked some sense into me, I was lost

sorry it reminds me of the idiots in HS with jumbo blocks stacked so they could run big tires. I guess there still around, but now their just older and more stubborn.

every decent 4X4 magazine article or "how to lift a 4x4 story" I've ever read or seen all came to the same conclusions....body lift are CHEAP and easy way to lift the body high enough for big tires. But the correct/superior way to achieve the same thing is with redesigned fenders, bigger flairs, opening the wheel wells, and suspension changes. This can cost alot more money...or look like shit with a drunken Sawzall operation.

Most hard-core 4x4 types would agree, body lifts suck.

Additionally, if there ever was a redneck lift kit, the body lift is IT!

it's OK you don't like my opinion. I'm answering the threads topics questions.

I just don't run body lifts on ANY truck I've owned.

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