Very basic sub install for B&O/Lux pack

[ncarter124]

I'll second on the SSV's. Just did the pods with the kicker speakers. Made a big enough difference that I just ordered the front kicker replacements from Trailseven. Those haven't come in yet, but at the moment, I am looking to get the best sound from basic plug and play stuff. Once I get the front 5 kicker speakers in, I will look into the sub. Was hoping I could do a kicker 8" RT in the stock spot and get enough out of that to suffice for a while, but it seems like you will not get much improvement there without going the amp/sub combo route for ~$2000..... Just my initial thoughts from a little bit of research on my end. I know nothing about wiring amps and whatnot, so that is why I am hesitant to go down that road...

You're in about the same boat as me. I just refuse to gut a $62k vehicle with 1000 miles on it so I am looking for 100% plug-and-play without spending stupid amounts of money. The mObridge is just a joke in my opinion. Nice, sure, but $1600 for an amp is lunacy. I may look into the Kicker replacements and see if that helps. The one advantage I have (I thought) is that I have a 2dr and I dont have kids, or a wife/gf and I also have a Maverick, so this sub and amp can take up literally 100% of my cargo space and I won't care at all. I have zero need to utilize the factory location, I am good with a huge-ass box in the back like I had in my early-20's, but just getting it wired in is too much of a struggle with the stupid B&O. Thanks for the feedback, gonna check out Trailseven and see what I can figure out there.

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[ncarter124]

I can respect that. The B&O is more expensive to upgrade because of that DSP/Amp.

You ~could~ just throw a Kicker 500.1 on the sub and a 8” kicker in the box, but you have to get creative with amp mounting since that B&O is in the way.

I guess I need to research these even more and this is kind of what started me down the rabbit hole is I don't understand how doing this with a kicker 500.1 works but other ways dont, I guess because its a "bass processor". So maybe that is my answer. Thanks!

 

[ncarter124]

there are no forscan adjustments with the b&o setup.

the Mobridge amp has a decent config out of the box but music tuning is extremely subjective. The software isn’t hard to understand and the support is really good.

I saw at least one that has to do with some sort of adjustment where you have to change a D value to a C value in order to avoid excessive static or some noise in the system... so I'll see when I get there. I work in IT so this isnt foreign to me as Forscan seems to be basically a hex editor but I just have never touched car audio in my life so.... lots to learn

 

[Mjasi3]

in forscan I did remove the fake engine noise and its a big difference. the fake engine noise is pumped through the sub, so it can affect the sound.

783-01-01 in the ACM module on Forscan.
783-01-01 *xxx xx-- C=ANC Disabled D=ANC Enabled

 

[foreWard]

in forscan I did remove the fake engine noise and its a big difference. the fake engine noise is pumped through the sub, so it can affect the sound.

783-01-01 in the ACM module on Forscan.
783-01-01 *xxx xx-- C=ANC Disabled D=ANC Enabled

Interesting, first I am hearing of the fake engine noise. I have an exhaust, so I don't need any more fake engine noise..... have to look into this now!

 

[RagnarKon]

Alright here's the fun:

• The base audio system is a very basic 5-channel system: 4-speaker channels and a subwoofer channel with no digital signal processing.
• The B&O system is an 8-channel system with an A2B digital signal processor (DSP).

More channels and more features means it'll simply be more expensive to upgrade. Really no way around it. Someone with the base audio system can probably spend around $1000 - $1500 to do a complete system upgrade with all new speakers, amps, etc. Someone with the B&O system will probably be closer to $2500 - $2900 once you include the speakers and the miscellaneous bits and pieces you need.

You can of course do it for cheaper if you are okay with not doing a complete upgrade. If you only want to upgrade the subwoofer you can add a new single-channel amp like the Kicker 500.1 and a new subwoofer for $500 or so. Or if you don't care about the full DSP functionality you can use a PAC AmpPro AP4-FD31, and a separate amplifier. That'll save you probably around $600-$800 or so depending on what amp you pick.

But if you want the full-blown upgrade, it's gonna be pricey unfortunately.

I work in IT so this isnt foreign to me as Forscan seems to be basically a hex editor

You are correct, it's just a hex editor that's flipping bits to turn on/off settings on a microcontroller.

 

[Mjasi3]

Interesting, first I am hearing of the fake engine noise. I have an exhaust, so I don't need any more fake engine noise..... have to look into this now!

Absolutely! If you put an aftermarket exhaust on, you, definitely need to get rid of the fake noise.

 

[Madeinoregon08]

Okay, I'll take one for the team and be gullible.... The fake engine noise is a joke, right?

 

[Mjasi3]

Okay, I'll take one for the team and be gullible.... The fake engine noise is a joke, right?

OK, to clarify... fake "EXHAUST" noise...
It absolutely exists on the BnO systems! My wildtrak 2.7 sounded like a V8, when I'm removed the fake EXHAUST noise, there was barely any exhaust sound... I later wanna upgrade to a Corsa exhaust, and subwoofer, so this was on the list of things to do. Why listen to fake stuff when you have the real thing.

 

[Brian_B]

Okay, I'll take one for the team and be gullible.... The fake engine noise is a joke, right?

It is a joke, but unfortunately it's by Ford on all of us. It's a real thing - on B&O systems only prior to MY24 I think, and was made standard on all models in MY24.

 

[ABorges]

I just found a video of someone overhauling the entire system and I've decided that I am just going to hire someone, not going to deal with all of the work required to improve it.

Thanks, I just found a video of a guy doing the entire system and that was enough to force me to just hire some place to gut it all and put in all new. I was hoping it wouldn't be an insane process as I had feared but it turns out it is, so that's what I am going to do. Sucks but I just don't have it in me to tackle this.

I agree with you, if you have never installed an audio system basically from scratch like you're talking about doing, hire a pro for sure.

 

[Madeinoregon08]

OK, to clarify... fake "EXHAUST" noise...
It absolutely exists on the BnO systems! My wildtrak 2.7 sounded like a V8, when I'm removed the fake EXHAUST noise, there was barely any exhaust sound... I later wanna upgrade to a Corsa exhaust, and subwoofer, so this was on the list of things to do. Why listen to fake stuff when you have the real thing.

That's crazy, I don't know why ford would do that. Maybe on an EV I could see it. I have a 24' Badlands with the BnO system and haven't noticed it. I did the Corsa cat-back exhaust and I can tell you to GET IT, you'll love it. I was very happy with it. And also put in a Hertz 12" sub too. Now I wonder if it's going to sound different if I go in and make those forscan changes?

 

[Mjasi3]

That's crazy, I don't know why ford would do that. Maybe on an EV I could see it. I have a 24' Badlands with the BnO system and haven't noticed it. I did the Corsa cat-back exhaust and I can tell you to GET IT, you'll love it. I was very happy with it. And also put in a Hertz 12" sub too. Now I wonder if it's going to sound different if I go in and make those forscan changes?

You WILL notice a difference. Will not sound like a v8 and you’ll hear the corsca

 

[Hemisfear]

The only thing I would add is if you are getting anywhere close to spending $2K, STOP and purchase the MoBridge Amp, it's plug and play and has enough umph to satisfy any style of music.
I did mine last fall, super easy and the sound is AWESOME!

 

[Madeinoregon08]

You WILL notice a difference. Will not sound like a v8 and you’ll hear the corsca

Definitely gonna do it, thanks!

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