Aluminum body confirmed?

[OX1]

Just thinking if I waited to buy a light wreck at some point. Has it been confirmed most of body is definitely alum?
I started MiIG'ing alum recently with a spool, but it's a PIA compared to steel.

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[TeocaliMG]

Just thinking if I waited to buy a light wreck at some point. Has it been confirmed most of body is definitely alum?
I started MiIG'ing alum recently with a spool, but it's a PIA compared to steel.

I don't actually no, my assumption is that the hinging members will at least be aluminum (and thus easily replaceable) but probably not the core body. Maybe quarter panels too. Regardless are you planning on doing significant body repair work with a welder? if yes, you sir are a wizard! I suppose it depends on the nature of the damage too. Seems like it would be easier to pick up panels and match paint.

 

[frinesi2]

Just emulate how these guys work on the aluminum body of the One-77 and you'll be fine:

 

[Nickp]

I will agree with Teocali, our current best guess is that everything that moves will be aluminum (Hood, doors, tailgate/swinggate) while the actual body panels will be steel.

 

[Jdc]

I will agree with Teocali, our current best guess is that everything that moves will be aluminum (Hood, doors, tailgate/swinggate) while the actual body panels will be steel.

But can it take a hit from a sledgehammer!?

 

[The Pope]

I started MiIG'ing alum recently with a spool, but it's a PIA compared to steel.

TIG Welding is what you're needing to learn.
Mig Spool welding of Aluminum is for much thicker aluminum.

 

[Jook13]

I cant imagine many people wanting to weld on the body, especially if it's aluminum. Not like there will be rust to fix. Hopefully the panels are easy to remove and replace...

 

[Jalisurr]

I hope there is as much aluminum as possible. Ideally the whole body, but at the very least hood/doors/roof/fenders/swinggate. We really have no idea though, other than that there will be stampings for the Bronco happening at Dearborn, where the aluminum bits are made for other Ford vehicles.

Weight is the enemy of fun to drive, and rust is just the enemy of cars in general. Ford's aluminum vehicles have saved a good amount of weight, I could see the base 2 door Bronco being right around or even under 4k lbs if it's an all aluminum body.

 

[indio22]

I hope there is as much aluminum as possible. Ideally the whole body, but at the very least hood/doors/roof/fenders/swinggate. We really have no idea though, other than that there will be stampings for the Bronco happening at Dearborn, where the aluminum bits are made for other Ford vehicles.

Weight is the enemy of fun to drive, and rust is just the enemy of cars in general. Ford's aluminum vehicles have saved a good amount of weight, I could see the base 2 door Bronco being right around or even under 4k lbs if it's an all aluminum body.

I would be in heaven if the new Bronco is all aluminum. My 1972 Series III Land Rover is all aluminum (besides the firewall) and galvanized steel bits. It's the bomb compared to my rusting Jeeps.

New buyers who unload vehicles early have a different set of requirements. But people hanging onto the new Bronco for a long time, or buyers down the road, will generally be very happy with AL. (Just keep an eye on any galvanic corrosion.)

 

[Paint]

I hope there is as much aluminum as possible. Ideally the whole body, but at the very least hood/doors/roof/fenders/swinggate. We really have no idea though, other than that there will be stampings for the Bronco happening at Dearborn, where the aluminum bits are made for other Ford vehicles.

Weight is the enemy of fun to drive, and rust is just the enemy of cars in general. Ford's aluminum vehicles have saved a good amount of weight, I could see the base 2 door Bronco being right around or even under 4k lbs if it's an all aluminum body.

Under 4k lbs would be surprising.

 

[Stampede.Offroad]

I cant imagine many people wanting to weld on the body, especially if it's aluminum. ...

Welding thin sheet metal like most panels will be a PIA and require TIG most of the time no mater what it's made of.

I still expect moving panels and fenders to be Al, with structural components being some alloy steel.

 

[Jalisurr]

I would be in heaven if the new Bronco is all aluminum. My 1972 Series III Land Rover is all aluminum (besides the firewall) and galvanized steel bits. It's the bomb compared to my rusting Jeeps.

New buyers who unload vehicles early have a different set of requirements. But people hanging onto the new Bronco for a long time, or buyers down the road, will generally be very happy with AL. (Just keep an eye on any galvanic corrosion.)

Yeah, that's one of my favorite things for piece of mind with my C6 Z06, there's basically no steel on the car. Aluminum frame, suspension, and engine, magnesium subframe, CFRP body. There's nothing to rust on our salty Canadian roads!

 

[Jalisurr]

Under 4k lbs would be surprising.

A little surprising but far from impossible (remember I'm talking 2 door base model)

A 2 door wrangler sport is 3,970lb, and they aren't all aluminum (about 75% supposedly). A base new Explorer is 4,345 lbs, and that's a much larger vehicle than a 2 door Bronco will be.

 

[CJay]

But can it take a hit from a sledgehammer!?

Yes!
Disclaimer: Your results may vary.

 

[OX1]

I don't actually no, my assumption is that the hinging members will at least be aluminum (and thus easily replaceable) but probably not the core body. Maybe quarter panels too. Regardless are you planning on doing significant body repair work with a welder? if yes, you sir are a wizard! I suppose it depends on the nature of the damage too. Seems like it would be easier to pick up panels and match paint.

I've done it with steel (this was my 79 after Tellico)

I narrowed both ends, particularly proud of my narrowed front end

Miss my old mud truck on the left, Sniff Sniff.........

BUT alum will be much harder. Unless you really preheat, first part of bead is "cold", then
you get some heat and get a nice bead for a bit, then 2 inches or so from there (sometimes less),
you are melting through the plate and it is dribbling. I have a TIG, which is what you really need
so you can vary power through foot pedal. Really need decent coordination for that, never had the
time to get good at it.

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