2.7 Ecoboost engine details you should know

[jay-rod427]

Thoughts on a catch can? Is it really needed with dual injection?

Needed? No, but sure helps keep things cleaner over the long haul.

It's been repeatedly said no.

See above.

It's not even an absolute need on the 1st gen 3.5 EB depending on the operating conditions... However, it won't hurt anything either. It's just less opportunity to have shit stuck to the back of the valves. I am unsure under what conditions that they get caked so badly, but I have not seen those issues on my Ecoboost, however, why would you NOT want to have a catch can??? Just seems like cheap insurance.

This right here, cheap way to keep oil sludge out of the ENTIRE intake tract not just the back of the valves.

Because its another possible point of failure? My tuned 3.5L Ecoboost in my SHO ran fine to almost 100K before I sold it, outside of the timing chains being noisy when you first started it.

The dual fuel system should take care of any coking issues and particulate buildup (which was one of the reasons they did it)

How is a catch can a point of failure? Not much to go wrong there.


Somewhere along the B6G way the catch can debate turned into direct or dual injection. While dual injection helps keep the back of the intake valve itself cleaner a catch can greatly reduces the oil buildup going through the whole system including the throttle body. Has little to do with the intake valves. Direct injection only would get buildup on the back of the valves no matter if it had a catch can or the breathers not even connected. That buildup is not coking from oil, its carbon from the tiny pulse of exhaust gases that go up the valve ever so slightly when it first opens. Port injection cleans this off every time fuel and it's detergents pass over the back of the valve.

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[RagnarKon]

First, you shouldn't be changing the oil at 7500-10000. Second, the semi-synthetic is going to be 95% as good as ANY synthetic. So if you think that changing your oil at 7500-10000 with full synthetic is ok, then semi-synthetic would be fine to change at 7000-9500 miles. The real benefit of full synthetic is when everything else fails (extreme temperatures and loads) and not with regards to overall life. Overall life is more impacted by contamination than it is by the oil itself, and that is nearly independent, but not completely, of the ability of the oil to handle extremes.

True, and admittedly I exaggerated a bit… probably shouldn’t do that in this post.

The way it was explained to me is that full synthetic has a longer lifespan than synthetic blend in a controlled environment if you are just taking into account the normal heat cycles an engine goes through. Chemically full synthetic will last longer.

Obviously in the real world you aren’t in a controlled environment, and fuel isn’t flawless and air filters aren’t perfect. So you will have contaminants in the oil that need to be removed via oil change—probably well before the oil itself breaks down.

I guess the point is… if you are good about keeping up to date with your oil changes most people don’t really have anything to gain by going full synthetic.

 

[Sherminiator]

How is a catch can a point of failure? Not much to go wrong there.

It won't be catastrophic, but you could wind up with a leak in the system also

 

[johndeerefarmer]

It won't be catastrophic, but you could wind up with a leak in the system also

The dealer can also use the catch can as a reason to void the warranty since it's not OEM supplied

 

[RobCo]

They want you to use synthetic oil because of the turbos

 

[Sherminiator]

They want you to use synthetic oil because of the turbos

Ford calls out a Blend in the owners manual

Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
XO-5W30-Q1SP

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...d=7704&vFilteringEnabled=False&userMarket=USA

 

[Mustbeheresomewhere]

I'm curious too because I'm really happy with the 2.7/10R so far.

No, I'm still waiting, just not a fan of 10 speed automatics. Thanks for your feedback, glad to know that you like it.

 

[mpeugeot]

Ford calls out a Blend in the owners manual

Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
XO-5W30-Q1SP

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...d=7704&vFilteringEnabled=False&userMarket=USA

It's better to think of that as the minimum acceptable oil (not that it's bad oil), but that there are superior products on the market. Those products that exceed the specifications will only provide additional protection - not detract from it. The factory specifies because it meets their expectations for wear and protection and not because it's the only right answer.

 

[Sherminiator]

It's better to think of that as the minimum acceptable oil (not that it's bad oil), but that there are superior products on the market. Those products that exceed the specifications will only provide additional protection - not detract from it. The factory specifies because it meets their expectations for wear and protection and not because it's the only right answer.

Yeah I agree with you on that, its the baseline to work from.

 

[Biz]

Great video. I have the 2.7 in my Edge ST and it's fun to drive. With a tune (livernois) it's surprisingly quick.

 

[Alienpilot]

I've been running synthetic oil in my 2.0T Jeep. Even at 5,000 mile interval changes, it appears that's too much.

Most importantly, 99% of drivers do this. Start up and go. It pays to wait it out for a few minutes for the engine to warm up.

On recip aircraft engines, we have to wait for the oil to rise above 40 degrees C before adding power. On jet engine aircraft, we have to wait three minutes before adding power or at lower thrust settings before shutdown. There's a reason for the madness.

 

[Sherminiator]

Most importantly, 99% of drivers do this. Start up and go. It pays to wait it out for a few minutes for the engine to warm up.

On recip aircraft engines, we have to wait for the oil to rise above 40 degrees C before adding power. On jet engine aircraft, we have to wait three minutes before adding power or at lower thrust settings before shutdown. There's a reason for the madness.

according to most articles-idling car engines isn't good and several states have laws against it.

Most modern gas engines warm up to operating temp in a car after a minute or two, depending on how cold it is. I run my car about 5 minutes just to get it to temp so its pump out warm air if its cold out though.

Diesels require a high idle to prevent blow by with the piston rings to fully seat or you can push oil out of the engine (see this all the time on military vehicles)

 

[Alienpilot]

We all love horsepower and the numbers game, however after reading all the replies there isn't much mentioned about maintenance.
Twin turbo's are cool. I've been driving supercharged and turbo cars/Jeeps for over twenty years.

Now back to reality...Try changing one of these turbo's or any maintenance for that matter. Under the hood looks like a nightmare. I'm not sure about you, but I won't even let a dealer mechanic change my oil. Not now or ever!

What happens when you ford water and your turbo's are subjected to extreme temperature changes? I don't know the measurements, I'm sure someone is soon to correct me, however I don't believe both turbo's are above the fording capabilities of the Bronco.

Also, twin turbo's mean double trouble. $$$$$$$$

Short term ownership or lease is fine. If you plan to keep this Bronco 2.7 long term. Get ready to empty your pocket book. Especially if you are going to wheel it.

Nothing different with the 2.3. Same turbo situation and I think quite adequate for the Bronco 2DR.
Back in 1998 a LS1 Camaro just barely made 300hp and it rocked. That little 2.3 has impressive torque numbers as well. That's all due to cylinder pressure!
My 2.0T Jeep Rubicon out ran a Subaru WRX.
Did anyone see the TFL youtube video of the 2.3 Ranger with a tune. It ran 8.8 eight mile, that's what we used to run with a 69 Mach 1 Mustang 351 cammed, heads, and 4.11 cogs.

Anyways, my build is a 2.7 before I drop my 5.0 in it. I'm a gluten for horsepower as well, but think about engine choices wisely.
I'm also a manual dude, so who knows (or cares).

 

[markregel]

Quick Recap:
1. Nano
2.Dual Injection
3.Do not drive like grandma going to church on Sunday
4.Use Synthetic oil often and
5. Premium Gas

Don't be fooled into thinking, great I can floor it every time and my engine will last longer. It makes sense the wastegate can become frozen if dormant, but occasional use is all it takes. High boost puts stress on everything else. I'm not saying it can't handle it, but higher forces cause more wear, not less.

 

[Gamecock2010]

Quick Recap:
1. Nano
2.Dual Injection
3.Do not drive like grandma going to church on Sunday
4.Use Synthetic oil often and
5. Premium Gas

But officer, Im just trying to keep my engine healthy!

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