Never thought I would be excited to see so many o-rings on something!Bought on Wednesday and delivered Friday. Very nicely made and no slop when turning it. There are no sharp edges and the o-ring on the cap is a nice touch.
@WLDTRK73
Next OC...about 4K from now. My last UOA at 3K was good from a viscosity retention and fuel dilution perspective so I am going to go to 5K.Never thought I would be excited to see so many o-rings on something!
Looks very well made, thank you for the pictures. Now the question is, when are you installing it?
Better pics than their website ..... but I thought you were getting the older style without the spring washer.Bought on Wednesday and delivered Friday. Very nicely made and no slop when turning it. There are no sharp edges and the o-ring on the cap is a nice touch.
@WLDTRK73
Decided against that. The metal locking tabs would wear the pan over time.Better pics than their website ..... but I thought you were getting the older style without the spring washer.
word to the wise, after all the oil is drained remove the Ronin plug too ... there is more than you think that's still left in there.Just did my oil change yesterday on my 2.7. fastest and cleanest oil change of any vehicle I've owned.
I had installed the Ronin on my 1st oil change so now even with my skids, I can still reach in and twist on the hose.
The "base" part of my Ronin never comes out...just unscrew the cap, insert in the nipple release and done.
I would not be surprised if there is a little bit but it can't be that much. I'm putting in at least 6+ qts afterwards to get my levels back up.word to the wise, after all the oil is drained remove the Ronin plug too ... there is more than you think that's still left in there.
Per recommendation from Ronin I tilt the car when doing the oil change and after I take out the whole plug I get a little under a cup and a half of extra oil out of there.I would not be surprised if there is a little bit but it can't be that much. I'm putting in at least 6+ qts afterwards to get my levels back up.
Also, I run extended oil (10k-15k) miles but change it every 5k so If there is a little bit left... I'm not worried.
The entire reason I went to a Ronin is so that I'm not wearing on those small plastic tabs in our plastic oil pans. The "base" snapped and locked into place when I first installed it..no leaks...done.
Good to know. I'll have to see how the UPR does since it should allow more to drain based upon its design.Per recommendation from Ronin I tilt the car when doing the oil change and after I take out the whole plug I get a little under a cup and a half of extra oil out of there.
Just mi dos centos.
Here’s a couple solutions, check them out:I did my second oil change recently
The thread title asks for tips so I will make the following comment of it can be a good idea to keep a spare oil filter housing on hand in case of any issues.
Reason being is I feel it can/could be pretty easy to cross thread the housing plastic oil filter housing cover when screwing it back on, especially if you have bad lighting or are maybe not on a step stool to see what you're doing easily (Especially if Sasquatch or running larger tires). Also could potentially crack the cover if it slips on you when trying to install the new o rings which is not super easy.
Thank you shout out to @Ducati0927 for posting the part # earlier in the thread
ft4z-6a832-c
Anyhow my 2 cents of long term I think these Housing covers are not going to be long lived.