B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[49faith]

Just another appreciation post for @Ksjrb03 going through the trouble of documenting this whole thing. I completed all of the interior speakers and will do the key 500 / kicker sub when I have enough time to killmat the entire back half of my Bronco. Only thing I did extra was stuff some poly fill into the wide open spaces I couldn't "pocket" with killmat. Thank you!

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[Bori]

I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon

Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

Panel clips and part #s

Wiring drawing

Shop Manuals for removing trim

 

[Bori]

Anyone experienced this? Where did I go wrong?

First, a shout-out to Ksjrb03 for the awesome post and to all who contribute to the thread. This may be the most complete and thorough collection of write-ups on the subject available.

. . . I tried a reduced version of Ksjrb03's setup but something's not quite right. Same JLs on dash and Focals on roll bar, but without changing the kick panel or the sub. I put layer of dinamat in the surface behind every 4-inch speaker, and filled each hole with poly stuffing. Then took the factory sub out and put stuffing inside the plastic box and outside between the sheet metal and the plastic cover around the sub to avoid any rattling.

Results: sounds good and nothing rattles, especially in the back around the sub. Nothing. No distortion of any king, not muddy at full volume, and at higher volumes way better than factory.

BUT, here's the issue. It sounds too solid--I know, it's about taste, but there's no way this is what these speakers are supposed to sound. Base all around is too tight, no dimension, like no dept. Too tight. Midrange is almost the same, so hights just seem out of proportion to the rest of the overall sound. At low volume the factory setup sounded more natural. This sound is better loud, but there's no sweetness to it. As if the speakers are too tight.

Is it the poly stuffing? Did I put too much? The speakers can't breathe? Could that be the case? Should I take the stuffing out of the 4-inch holes and leave only the Dynamat? Leave it in the sub box or take out some? I'm I missing an amp?

I don't think these speakers are supposed to sound like this, so replacing the kick panel speakers or the sub may not be the solution.

Where did I go wrong? Has anyone experienced this? Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TABadlands]

Anyone experienced this? Where did I go wrong?

First, a shout-out to Ksjrb03 for the awesome post and to all who contribute to the thread. This may be the most complete and thorough collection of write-ups on the subject available.

. . . I tried a reduced version of Ksjrb03's setup but something's not quite right. Same JLs on dash and Focals on roll bar, but without changing the kick panel or the sub. I put layer of dinamat in the surface behind every 4-inch speaker, and filled each hole with poly stuffing. Then took the factory sub out and put stuffing inside the plastic box and outside between the sheet metal and the plastic cover around the sub to avoid any rattling.

Results: sounds good and nothing rattles, especially in the back around the sub. Nothing. No distortion of any king, not muddy at full volume, and at higher volumes way better than factory.

BUT, here's the issue. It sounds too solid--I know, it's about taste, but there's no way this is what these speakers are supposed to sound. Base all around is too tight, no dimension, like no dept. Too tight. Midrange is almost the same, so hights just seem out of proportion to the rest of the overall sound. At low volume the factory setup sounded more natural. This sound is better loud, but there's no sweetness to it. As if the speakers are too tight.

Is it the poly stuffing? Did I put too much? The speakers can't breathe? Could that be the case? Should I take the stuffing out of the 4-inch holes and leave only the Dynamat? Leave it in the sub box or take out some? I'm I missing an amp?

I don't think these speakers are supposed to sound like this, so replacing the kick panel speakers or the sub may not be the solution.

Where did I go wrong? Has anyone experienced this? Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

I haven't replaced my dash and rear pods speakers yet, but I will be soon. I bought two pairs of JL C1'S for the dash. (I have a single spare center channel if anyone is interested). I'll replace the rear pods with Hertz DCX 100.3's. I rented Crutchfield's "Listen & compare" headphones and listened to every speaker for the Bronco Crutchfield had available. I chose the Hertz for the rear pods based on their sensitivity and sound, to hopefully balance the sound stage in my Bronco. I'm planning to do the same as you, sound deadening liner and polyfill. Hopefully I'll be happy with this for my listening preference . Depending on how the new speakers sound, I'll probably replace the kick panel speakers with the mid range speakers from a decent pair of component speakers without the tweeters and crossovers. Then I'll replace the sub-woofer with a Kicker shallow mount and kicker Key 500.1 amp. I'll let everyone know how my project goes for my taste, and look forward to hearing from others about your question.

 

[greatlakes]

Anyone experienced this? Where did I go wrong?

First, a shout-out to Ksjrb03 for the awesome post and to all who contribute to the thread. This may be the most complete and thorough collection of write-ups on the subject available.

. . . I tried a reduced version of Ksjrb03's setup but something's not quite right. Same JLs on dash and Focals on roll bar, but without changing the kick panel or the sub. I put layer of dinamat in the surface behind every 4-inch speaker, and filled each hole with poly stuffing. Then took the factory sub out and put stuffing inside the plastic box and outside between the sheet metal and the plastic cover around the sub to avoid any rattling.

Results: sounds good and nothing rattles, especially in the back around the sub. Nothing. No distortion of any king, not muddy at full volume, and at higher volumes way better than factory.

BUT, here's the issue. It sounds too solid--I know, it's about taste, but there's no way this is what these speakers are supposed to sound. Base all around is too tight, no dimension, like no dept. Too tight. Midrange is almost the same, so hights just seem out of proportion to the rest of the overall sound. At low volume the factory setup sounded more natural. This sound is better loud, but there's no sweetness to it. As if the speakers are too tight.

Is it the poly stuffing? Did I put too much? The speakers can't breathe? Could that be the case? Should I take the stuffing out of the 4-inch holes and leave only the Dynamat? Leave it in the sub box or take out some? I'm I missing an amp?

I don't think these speakers are supposed to sound like this, so replacing the kick panel speakers or the sub may not be the solution.

Where did I go wrong? Has anyone experienced this? Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

I doubt it's a problem with the polyfil.

When you replaced the speakers are you confident you got the polarity right (the positive and negatives on each speaker)? If one got reversed, that would cause your speakers to be "out of phase" and will sound a little funny.

I would use your fader to play just the front speakers. Then, use the balance to move all the way to the left and all the way to the right. Does the depth and bass playing only one speaker sound better than playing both together?

 

[Ksjrb03]

Anyone experienced this? Where did I go wrong?

First, a shout-out to Ksjrb03 for the awesome post and to all who contribute to the thread. This may be the most complete and thorough collection of write-ups on the subject available.

. . . I tried a reduced version of Ksjrb03's setup but something's not quite right. Same JLs on dash and Focals on roll bar, but without changing the kick panel or the sub. I put layer of dinamat in the surface behind every 4-inch speaker, and filled each hole with poly stuffing. Then took the factory sub out and put stuffing inside the plastic box and outside between the sheet metal and the plastic cover around the sub to avoid any rattling.

Results: sounds good and nothing rattles, especially in the back around the sub. Nothing. No distortion of any king, not muddy at full volume, and at higher volumes way better than factory.

BUT, here's the issue. It sounds too solid--I know, it's about taste, but there's no way this is what these speakers are supposed to sound. Base all around is too tight, no dimension, like no dept. Too tight. Midrange is almost the same, so hights just seem out of proportion to the rest of the overall sound. At low volume the factory setup sounded more natural. This sound is better loud, but there's no sweetness to it. As if the speakers are too tight.

Is it the poly stuffing? Did I put too much? The speakers can't breathe? Could that be the case? Should I take the stuffing out of the 4-inch holes and leave only the Dynamat? Leave it in the sub box or take out some? I'm I missing an amp?

I don't think these speakers are supposed to sound like this, so replacing the kick panel speakers or the sub may not be the solution.

Where did I go wrong? Has anyone experienced this? Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

I agree make sure your wiring is good. Hard to understand what your exact issue is. I will say I played with my equalizer settings for weeks before I left it alone. I also upgraded the sub and added an amp before I was completely satisfied. The sub really rounds out the sound.

 

[Bori]

Are you confident you got the polarity right (the positive and negatives on each speaker)? If one got reversed, that would cause your speakers to be "out of phase" and will sound a little funny.

You know, I didn't think of that. But how do you know what's what? I looked all over the web when I was installing the speakers and found only two things. One said it didn't matter. The other said to look for the weird color cable or the cable with a line or with writing. Well, all the freaking cables are different colors and some even have lines on both cables.

I did remove the poly stuffing today from all the enclosures and it sounds better. Still, the factory setup sounded nicer. Not lauder, but certainly much better balanced. It's got to be the cables.

Funny thing is that before I posted my issue here, I wrote Crutchfield for support or ideas and all I got was some dude blaming Spotify and talking all this nonsense about bid rates. Not one word about the cables or at least a link on how to use stuffing. Just a rant on Spotify. I've been using Spotify premium for 10 years. Sounded great on my 2015 F150, amazing on the Lexus with the base system I traded for the bronco, and sounds spectacular on my B&Ws at home.

Still, I wonder how the Sinc 2 on the 2015 F150 sounded better than this B&O on the 2021 bronco. Perhaps doors are best for speakers.

 

[Xrayphoton1]

This is an awesome write up but what about the non B&O system? Can it be upgraded in a similar fashion or does it need much more work?

 

[Ksjrb03]

You know, I didn't think of that. But how do you know what's what? I looked all over the web when I was installing the speakers and found only two things. One said it didn't matter. The other said to look for the weird color cable or the cable with a line or with writing. Well, all the freaking cables are different colors and some even have lines on both cables.

I did remove the poly stuffing today from all the enclosures and it sounds better. Still, the factory setup sounded nicer. Not lauder, but certainly much better balanced. It's got to be the cables.

Funny thing is that before I posted my issue here, I wrote Crutchfield for support or ideas and all I got was some dude blaming Spotify and talking all this nonsense about bid rates. Not one word about the cables or at least a link on how to use stuffing. Just a rant on Spotify. I've been using Spotify premium for 10 years. Sounded great on my 2015 F150, amazing on the Lexus with the base system I traded for the bronco, and sounds spectacular on my B&Ws at home.

Still, I wonder how the Sinc 2 on the 2015 F150 sounded better than this B&O on the 2021 bronco. Perhaps doors are best for speakers.

Sounds like you just guessed on polarity for all the speakers? The wiring diagrams I attached on first post show what all those freaking colored cables are, everything you need is right there. Polarity absolutely matters.

 

[Erock]

I’d imagine, if an article or whatever said “it didn’t matter”, what they really meant was… it doesn’t matter as long as they are all the same. There are times you can wire out of phase based on distance and so on, but in something as small as a car/truck that’s usually only done with the subwoofer.

 

[Bori]

Sounds like you just guessed on polarity for all the speakers?

Absolutely. Didn't searched all over the we but never noticed your attachments at the end, even when you said they where there. And yes, the issue appears to definitely be the wiring. Followed greatlakes' advice and yes. It's a mess.

 

[Bori]

I would use your fader to play just the front speakers. Then, use the balance to move all the way to the left and all the way to the right. Does the depth and bass playing only one speaker sound better than playing both together?

Did so. It's a mess. I definitely guessed the cables. I would certainly return any money I paid myself for this installation.

 

[greatlakes]

Did so. It's a mess. I definitely guessed the cables. I would certainly return any money I paid myself for this installation.

Glad you found the issue. After you fix it, you can write yourself a good review?

 

[TheShark]

Upgraded my front and rear speakers yesterday, JL's in the front and Focal in the rear. The center speaker was the hardest to deal, the other four were a pretty easy swap. Thanks to everyone in the thread for all the help and pointers.

 

[JFelty]

This is a great write up! I was inspired by it so I replaced everything with Kickers Including an custom built sub box that is home for a 10" Kicker Comp R run by a Kicker 500.1 Key Amp. I love it!!!
Thanks again for inspiring me.

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