B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[Rick U]

I’ve had my 2 door Badlands lux for all of 5 days and I’m ready for some audio upgrades . I knew not to expect too much from the B&O factory system so I’m not disappointed. I have a few questions before I start ordering parts.

1) Have we established there is room behind the panel for a kicker key 500.1 on a 2 door? I’m planning to use the factory sub enclosure.

2) For those using the kicker key 500.1 for the sub, are you using the dsp tuning? Does this amp have a mic like the key 200.4?

3) I prefer stereo mode over surround. Should I still replace the center dash speaker to match the corner dash speakers?

Thank you to the op and all who have contributed!!

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[Hossfire]

I’ve had my 2 door Badlands lux for all of 5 days and I’m ready for some audio upgrades . I knew not to expect too much from the B&O factory system so I’m not disappointed. I have a few questions before I start ordering parts.

1) Have we established there is room behind the panel for a kicker key 500.1 on a 2 door? I’m planning to use the factory sub enclosure.

2) For those using the kicker key 500.1 for the sub, are you using the dsp tuning? Does this amp have a mic like the key 200.4?

3) I prefer stereo mode over surround. Should I still replace the center dash speaker to match the corner dash speakers?

Thank you to the op and all who have contributed!!

I'm pretty sure that the key sub amp doesn't use a mike.

 

[Rick U]

Thanks, that’s not a deal breaker. If using the high input from the B&O amp, the low pass is already set so i would set the Kicker amp to no low pass, it will see whatever B&O desired. I’m trying to avoid a situation where I have to remove the panel to make fine adjustments on the kicker amp. I assume phase, gain and low pass filter are the only adjustments available?

 

[FellowM3]

I’m super lost with all this jargin

I have a lux and want to:
1. Get rid of the horrid sub rattle
2. Get better audio

What is the best / simplest way to do this? I keep seeing talk about the 200.4 kicker and I have no idea what all the other stuff is. I’m handy but is there a simple , add “this’ and swap the speakers to “this” to get better sound ?

 

[Stxflyer]

I just completed all the upgrades outlined by the OP minus adding the amp to the sub and have to say the difference is impressive. With the wiring harnesses it was plug and play, getting at the dash speakers is a bit tricky. But if you just want to improve the existing B&O system its worth the effort. Thanks for the great writeup OP made the job go relatively smooth.

 

[Bird Dog Off Road]

I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon

Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

Panel clips and part #s

Wiring drawing

Shop Manuals for removing trim

did you have to do anything in forscan for the rear speakers

 

[Ksjrb03]

did you have to do anything in forscan for the rear speakers

Nope

 

[FellowM3]

I just completed all the upgrades outlined by the OP minus adding the amp to the sub and have to say the difference is impressive. With the wiring harnesses it was plug and play, getting at the dash speakers is a bit tricky. But if you just want to improve the existing B&O system its worth the effort. Thanks for the great writeup OP made the job go relatively smooth.

Thinking of doing the same.

so what did you do? Just swapped the speakers for all?

 

[Stxflyer]

Yep I put the same 4" JLC1's in all three dash locations and 6" in the kick panels, and swapped out the ones in the pods with the 4" Focal ACX's that the OP recommended. I went straight to Hoel wiring ([email protected])for the harnesses for the 4 inch speakers, great service! I got the ones for the kick panel speakers from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YIFQ7I?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Do yourself a favor and get a set of plastic panel lifting tools to pry up the covers on the dash, and start on the passenger side so if you leave a few scuffs from your first try you will not have to stare at them all the time(guess how I know) and i am pretty sure the 2 screws on either side of the accessory bolt for the center speaker are T20, a little bit tricky to get this one on and off but it goes.
I have been looking for a recommendation to just upgrade the sub speaker but have yet to see of anyone doing so without adding an amp, let me know if you hear of anything that works.
All in i was probably under $500, and it took maybe 2 hrs. but i had fun doing it and it sounds way better. Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions while your at it. Chris

 

[Mustang302]

This is such a great thread! Thanks for all this info.

Adding the JLs to my cart but crutchfield says wont fit my dash (but with everyone using these i guess i can ignore that).

Also, they keep trying to upsell me on this installation kit. Is it needed?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120SPHKC/Install-Bay-SPHKC-Speaker-Installation-Kit.html

 

[Wolfeman]

This is such a great thread! Thanks for all this info.

Adding the JLs to my cart but crutchfield says wont fit my dash (but with everyone using these i guess i can ignore that).

Also, they keep trying to upsell me on this installation kit. Is it needed?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120SPHKC/Install-Bay-SPHKC-Speaker-Installation-Kit.html

I can't speak to the JL speakers fitting but many people here have used them in the front with few complaints about them hitting. I think it's pretty well known that they won't fit in the back. I used Kicker KS series all the way around and have been happy.

I ordered but never needed the speaker installation kit recommended by Crutchfield. You will need to buy speaker adapters from Amazon or from Hoel as mentioned above.

 

[Stxflyer]

Those speakers will fit, and you don't need the install kit, get the appropriate wiring harness from Hoel wiring, white is positive the larger spade connecter and black is neg the smaller one and your good to go.

 

[22Badskwatch]

fantastic write up - interestingly enough, when I click the links for Crutchfield on the speakers, they all say they won't work for my 2022 Bronco Lux

 

[T Copp]

Did the 7 front speakers a month ago, and finally finished the sub yesterday. What a night and day difference an aftermarket sub makes. I had some wiring issues, but @Ksjrb03 was very quick to respond to all of my questions. We eventually got it all figured out. I made a slightly more detailed post over on the Broncoraptor.com forum when it came to the sub setup.

 

[pmoore00]

This is a great write-up on the B&O upgrade. I just completed my own version of the upgrade and thought it might be useful for anyone who might be at the point of obsessing about speaker choices, etc.

I set out to get the OP's results without having to mess around with the subwoofer (I very much appreciate the trial and error OP did) and still achieve the 15/10 result. I am incredibly pleased with the outcome. I'm able to turn the bass down on the factory EQ to a point where the obnoxious buzzing went away, but the replacement speakers have such great bass response and clarity that the bass is still very present. You can still hear/feel the sub, but it's not necessary because of the fantastic lows from the kickpanel and corner speakers.

For the front dash corners and rear pods, I used Hertz DCX 100.3 4" speakers. You can find them here. If you buy from Crutchfield, you can decline the installation parts (unless you don't mind cutting and splicing the factory wires).

For the center channel, I used a Focal PC 100ac 4" speaker I had leftover from a previous project. It's brighter than the Hertz speakers I used in the corners and seems to work well for the center channel. You can find them here. Fun fact - this Focal will NOT fit in the rear pods or the dash corners. It's a couple of mm too tall. But it fits perfectly in the center channel and I was able to avoid the problem of using only one speaker from a pair.

Instead of cutting and splicing, I bought these on eBay for the 4" speakers as recommended by lots of people in this forum. I wound up needing to replace the negative female spade connector on each harness because the Hertz speakers use the same size (large) male end for the + and - terminals. Still better than cutting the OEM wiring.

For the kick panel speakers, I spent a lot of time looking for something that would potentially obviate the factory sub. I wound up with Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 6.5" speakers. Here. Definitely buy the Crutchfield recommended installation goodies. The bracket/adapter and the wiring harnesses work perfectly.

I ordered a box of Kilmat but wound up not using it. I'm sure the results would be that much better with the sound deadening, but I got lazy and it was cold out and I was doing this all in my driveway.

Thanks again to the OP for laying out the process and making me realize that I didn't want to mess with the factory sub if I didn't have to. Not yet, at least.

PS - I have 3 more of the Focal 100ac speakers in my garage. Each one has a tab cut off from the previous project, but all are brand new and a pretty good choice for the center channel. If you're interested, please let me know.

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