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CJ1064

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I replaced all 6 speakers in my bronco and was disappointed at the lack or results. Everything certainly got clearer but not up to even medium standards. It got slightly better when I put in bass blockers on the front tweeters.

I don't know how to use these kicker key amps that everybody is referencing because I'm so new to audio. If I want to add a sub in my trunk AND fix the other 6 speakers with an amp, do I need both the kicker key 200.1 and the 500.1? I don't understand how 2 amps would plug into the factory head unit and which wiring harnesses I would need from plugandplaykits. Lastly, my local car audio guy said I would need a Lc2i. What is that and how does that work with the aforementioned 200.1 and 500.1? How do they plug into each other?

Edit I do not have the B&O system so I don't think I have any of the wiring for a sub yet.
I think people in your situation without B&O have had a dealer do a JBL sound bar flash, without the sound bar, for much better results.
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CJ1064

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Let's say you had a 2DR with B&O and just paid your taxes, what upgrades would you do for a half price mod keeping it in the $500 range?
I would buy 2 sets of Focal ACX and replace all 3 up front and one in the rear pod if you're really trying to save money. If not, buy 3 boxes and sell one extra speaker on the forum (that's what I did). But 100% replace the center channel.
 
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CJ1064

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What speakers did you go with?
I see a lot of people talking about replacing speakers, but not with what works and what doesn't (I know personal listen style has a lot to do with it...)
I see JL C1, Focal ACX, Infinity REF, Polk DB, Kicker CS, Alpine S, all being used...
I am leaning toward the Polk DB402 for all the 4" speakers.
I have read that the JL C1 has fitment issues with the tweeter that protrudes so high.
My point, I don't want to do a trial and error like other have.

Also, I have read on the other threads a lot about adding in bass blockers? Is anyone using them with the B&O system?
I swapped out my B&O with Focal ACX and I'm very happy. I am not using bass blockers on any speaker and it works fine. I'm not super technical but it could be that the Focal already has a built in cross over (so does the Polk DB402).
 

mattymik

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First, I mean this sincerely — I am so impressed with the resourcefulness and skill required to do this.

Second, I would personally be so pissed if I paid for that B&O system only to be replacing it within months of ownership. I almost bought the Lux just for it!

I’ll be replacing the speakers and adding the Kicker amp to my High package setup, and I’m still a bit salty about it.
 

talbot

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What speakers did you go with?
I see a lot of people talking about replacing speakers, but not with what works and what doesn't (I know personal listen style has a lot to do with it...)
I see JL C1, Focal ACX, Infinity REF, Polk DB, Kicker CS, Alpine S, all being used...
I am leaning toward the Polk DB402 for all the 4" speakers.
I have read that the JL C1 has fitment issues with the tweeter that protrudes so high.
My point, I don't want to do a trial and error like other have.

Also, I have read on the other threads a lot about adding in bass blockers? Is anyone using them with the B&O system?
im no expert but originally bought jl c2-400x for the rears, sounded better but not any louder
read up on efficiency and put in hertz dcx 100.3, better sound and a touch louder
i then put the jl’s in the front as i had them
guessing its not the best to mix brands but it is an improvement im happy with

i also put deadening material in the pods and filler in the front

i didnt put bass blockers on the front, probably should have and might do later on
 

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CJ1064

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I thought of this after I replaced all my speakers but to the people using the harness adapter from Amazon. It fits perfectly into the factory plug but the connectors that plug into the speakers are terrible. I would also grab some shrink wrap and slide a tube onto the wire and connect the wire (after you strip it) straight into the speaker terminal. Then slide up the shrink wrap and use a lighter to tighten up the wrap. I feel like this is a clean and easy way to connect the harness.
 
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Ksjrb03

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What speakers did you go with?
I see a lot of people talking about replacing speakers, but not with what works and what doesn't (I know personal listen style has a lot to do with it...)
I see JL C1, Focal ACX, Infinity REF, Polk DB, Kicker CS, Alpine S, all being used...
I am leaning toward the Polk DB402 for all the 4" speakers.
I have read that the JL C1 has fitment issues with the tweeter that protrudes so high.
My point, I don't want to do a trial and error like other have.

Also, I have read on the other threads a lot about adding in bass blockers? Is anyone using them with the B&O system?
I tested 2 different Kickers, Alpine, Pioneer, and ended up with the c1 focal combo. It could definitely be a personal choice. None of the speakers were horrible and were an upgrade over stock, but the combo of focal in the back and JL in the front gave me that rear fill improvement I was looking for.

Bass blockers are not needed on the B&O. The DSP/amp is already doing this function.
 
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Ksjrb03

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Let's say you had a 2DR with B&O and just paid your taxes, what upgrades would you do for a half price mod keeping it in the $500 range?
Speaker swap and fill the sub enclosure with poly fill. Beer money left over. (Waiting for someone to test the polyfil with stock sub, but I think it will help)
 
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VelocityBronco

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I tested 2 different Kickers, Alpine, Pioneer, and ended up with the c1 focal combo. It could definitely be a personal choice. None of the speakers were horrible and were an upgrade over stock, but the combo of focal in the back and JL in the front gave me that rear fill improvement I was looking for.

Bass blockers are not needed on the B&O. The DSP/amp is already doing this function.
No issues with the JL C1s rubbing or vibrating the speaker covers in the front? I read another thread where somoene was complaining about this...I know they interfere in the rear pods.
 

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Ksjrb03

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No issues with the JL C1s rubbing or vibrating the speaker covers in the front? I read another thread where somoene was complaining about this...I know they interfere in the rear pods.
No issue at all in the front. They did touch the cover panel in the back but I was able to snap the cover on still. Didn’t seem to be an issue but they didn’t stay back there very long.
 

MnLakeBum

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First, I mean this sincerely — I am so impressed with the resourcefulness and skill required to do this.

Second, I would personally be so pissed if I paid for that B&O system only to be replacing it within months of ownership. I almost bought the Lux just for it!

I’ll be replacing the speakers and adding the Kicker amp to my High package setup, and I’m still a bit salty about it.
The driving force for the LUX for me was to get a heated steering wheel and 12” screen as I’m 57 and need reading glasses, lol. It’s disappointing but stock and upgraded audio systems even on luxury cars are always lacking, The best we’ve had is the Meridian system in our Range Rover but the bass needs improvement. My buddies B&O System in his Audi sounds so much better than the Bronco B&O system that it’s hard to believe it’s the same company but it was a $5k option on a $140,000 car and still is weak and muddy in the bass department compared to the 12” Focal sub in a custom enclosure I have in my daily driver.

My OBX is finally on a rail car in Chicago and I’m sure when it arrives I’ll upgrade the speakers/sub and add an amp. Sadly, the factory systems are tuned poorly so it often takes adding and aftermarket processor to flatten the curve. Hopefully the flash for the soundbar will do the trick as other here seemed pleased with that solution. With how noisy my Bronco will be with 35” tires and the top down, I’m less concerned about the audio than I am in a quieter vehicle.
 

JL724

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You can just crimp the female adapters down slightly with a pair of pliers and it will create a snug fit on the speaker terminals. The negative terminal was fine for me, but the positive was loose. If I could do it over, I would have gone to Home Depot and just bought some good insulated adapters instead of the cheap ones that come with the harness. I thought they were pre-connected, otherwise I would have done that before they got here.

I thought of this after I replaced all my speakers but to the people using the harness adapter from Amazon. It fits perfectly into the factory plug but the connectors that plug into the speakers are terrible. I would also grab some shrink wrap and slide a tube onto the wire and connect the wire (after you strip it) straight into the speaker terminal. Then slide up the shrink wrap and use a lighter to tighten up the wrap. I feel like this is a clean and easy way to connect the harness.
I think Focal and JL make a little nicer speaker. Kicker, Infinity, Polk, Alpine, etc. all make good speakers at varying price points, really just depends on how much you want to spend and what sounds good to you.

I like focal sound and some people seem to have fitment issues with the JL's in the rear, so it was an easy decision for me.

As others mentioned, no need for bass blockers with B&O.

What speakers did you go with?
I see a lot of people talking about replacing speakers, but not with what works and what doesn't (I know personal listen style has a lot to do with it...)
I see JL C1, Focal ACX, Infinity REF, Polk DB, Kicker CS, Alpine S, all being used...
I am leaning toward the Polk DB402 for all the 4" speakers.
I have read that the JL C1 has fitment issues with the tweeter that protrudes so high.
My point, I don't want to do a trial and error like other have.

Also, I have read on the other threads a lot about adding in bass blockers? Is anyone using them with the B&O system?
 

JL724

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I would start with the three dash speakers. Less than $200 gets you three focal ACX 4" speakers and the adapters. If you decide you want to replace the rear speakers, it's another ~$100. Anything past that is going to involve replacing the sub and I don't think you can do that within your $500 budget.

Let's say you had a 2DR with B&O and just paid your taxes, what upgrades would you do for a half price mod keeping it in the $500 range?
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