B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[TWise]

I've search everywhere for this, so I apologize if this has already been answered. This is in reference to the B&O system. Does the Amp/DSP feed the Kick and Dash speaker via the same wire, or are the each wired up separately to the amp? I'm wondering if this is the purpose of the harness on the kick panel speaker that feeds back into it self. The reason I am asking this is I want to know if I can just use 2 channels of an amp and feed the kick panel speakers and thus also be powering the dash as well or do I NEED to feed them separately.

Based on the wiring diagram, I would believe that they need to be powered separate.

Also thanks OP for the awesome writeup!

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[Ksjrb03]

I've search everywhere for this, so I apologize if this has already been answered. This is in reference to the B&O system. Does the Amp/DSP feed the Kick and Dash speaker via the same wire, or are the each wired up separately to the amp? I'm wondering if this is the purpose of the harness on the kick panel speaker that feeds back into it self. The reason I am asking this is I want to know if I can just use 2 channels of an amp and feed the kick panel speakers and thus also be powering the dash as well or do I NEED to feed them separately.

Based on the wiring diagram, I would believe that they need to be powered separate.

Also thanks OP for the awesome writeup!

On the B&O, they are separate channels. Each speaker is wired independently. On the base system, the kick panel and dash share a channel.

 

[TWise]

On the B&O, they are separate channels. Each speaker is wired independently. On the base system, the kick panel and dash share a channel.

Thank you

 

[Nothing Left]

What I did was almost exactly as the OP did. and it is a major improvement. I did NOT add an additional amp for all the other speakers (in excess of the sub) it is a big job and well, I didnt. The speakers the OP and I used have a link in the original post. One of my earlier posts shows the high and low pass settings that Kicker advised me on. and yes, I agree with the OP that the gain should be turned up a little higher (assuming you will be running the aux bass control)

I agree on turning up the gain on the amp. I drove around with it set to no clipping for about 3 weeks and it just wasn’t the punch I was looking for. I turned up the gain about 10% above clipping and now it is perfect using the remote bass knob. It’s a pain to adjust if you hide it by the sub behind the rear panel so I suggest turning it up the first time.

 

[Vsharmamd]

Tried some 4 inch pioneers in the rear, threw in some klimat and the sound is better but the bass from these speakers is bad, rattles. A lot of people have suggested using Focal ACX speakers. Im going to try that, with polyfill. I guess pioneers weren’t a good choice. Any comments and suggestions are welcome.

 

[Boosted2.3L]

I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon

Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

Panel clips and part #s

Wiring drawing

11/14/22 Edit to add modified drawing, showing wire changes color after the green connector

Shop Manuals for removing trim

Do you often drive with the top/doors off? If yes, do you still notice an improved bass and sound from other speakers? I ask because my use case is driving with everything off and still want to feel the base and hear loud sound. My 2016 Mustang has the Shaker audio upgrade and the bass sounds amazing even with windows down going 55MPH down the road. For reference, my music includes mainly electronic/bass heavy tracks along with rock n roll (high volume, heavy bass). Any suggestions with what I should install is greatly appreciated!!!

 

[Larsf]

With the lower cost 6.5 rear enclosures coming out ( Mabett and Metra), will going with the bigger speakers in the rear significantly Improve the sound quality worth that upgrade? The focals in OP have better sensitivity in the larger size too. I am getting around to doing this now so I could easily go that route.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Do you often drive with the top/doors off? If yes, do you still notice an improved bass and sound from other speakers? I ask because my use case is driving with everything off and still want to feel the base and hear loud sound. My 2016 Mustang has the Shaker audio upgrade and the bass sounds amazing even with windows down going 55MPH down the road. For reference, my music includes mainly electronic/bass heavy tracks along with rock n roll (high volume, heavy bass). Any suggestions with what I should install is greatly appreciated!!!

The first time my doors come off will be when the next owner takes them off. I take my top off often, but I’m not one to blast music for others to listen to. So for my use I’m perfectly happy, but I’m probably not the one to answer for your use.

 

[Tortuga353]

Ok, so I'm late to this party. I took the Bronco rear and doors off back in April and applied kilmat to “mostly” eliminate the poor sound of the B&O. I have a suspicion some is just the sub struggling with the response at specific frequencies. IDK.

I was waiting to see what the Stealthbox was going to be, but the wifey bought the kicker comp R and 500.1 for Christmas, so going this route.

I have the sub, amp, PK8 kit, polyfil, kilmat, and ordered some Justin Case clips.

Anything else I need before I tear in to the sub swap? I saw from notes double sided tape and I’m guessing some self tapping screws to mount the amp.

I have not included the bass remote. Is this useful? I never had them on any of my old systems (long ass time ago). I mean it is cheap but just to turn up and down the sub when granny gets in or what?

***apologies if this has been answered*** I read the thread I believe to the entirety and have started the others.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Ok, so I'm late to this party. I took the Bronco rear and doors off back in April and applied kilmat to “mostly” eliminate the poor sound of the B&O. I have a suspicion some is just the sub struggling with the response at specific frequencies. IDK.

I was waiting to see what the Stealthbox was going to be, but the wifey bought the kicker comp R and 500.1 for Christmas, so going this route.

I have the sub, amp, PK8 kit, polyfil, kilmat, and ordered some Justin Case clips.

Anything else I need before I tear in to the sub swap? I saw from notes double sided tape and I’m guessing some self tapping screws to mount the amp.

I have not included the bass remote. Is this useful? I never had them on any of my old systems (long ass time ago). I mean it is cheap but just to turn up and down the sub when granny gets in or what?

***apologies if this has been answered*** I read the thread I believe to the entirety and have started the others.

I put everything I used in my first post. That should get you there. The screws to secure sub come with the sub. I could not be without the bass knob. Use it all the time. But I listen to many types of music.

 

[Tortuga353]

I put everything I used in my first post. That should get you there. The screws to secure sub come with the sub. I could not be without the bass knob. Use it all the time. But I listen to many types of music.

Perfect thanks. I went ahead and bought the remote and extension with the 90. Only $50 total and would rather have it than have to install it later.

 

[derichio02]

Has anyone mounted the amp in an alternate location? Wondering if it forts above the glovebox?

 

[Tortuga353]

***edit disregard***

One last question. I purchased a harness Metra 72-6514. I thought this was for the sub but maybe it is for the 4”. I can't find where I was looking.

*** I found where I looked and this is the sub adapter but I don’t need them for the install. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...re-of-the-b-o-sub-harness.40760/#post-1319832

 

[Silence]

Has anyone mounted the amp in an alternate location? Wondering if it forts above the glovebox?

Both my 500.1 and 200.4 key amps are mounted above the glove box.

 

[nwGTS]

I see OP used the Kicker compRT SHALLOW version but would any other kicker 8” fit the OEM enclosure or ONLY the shallow versions?

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