B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[Patriotic]

Thank you to the original poster and his and all other member followups on my desire to make my B&O sub rattle free. It is fine on 95% of the music I listen to, but rattles and buzzes on the other 5%.

I decided to have mine professionally soundproofed and insulated. Got a recommendation for a reputable, experienced auto shop. I dropped the Bronco off at 1030 Monday morning and it was ready by 330 that afternoon. 100% success, zero clips broken. Everything looks tight and well-screwed.

The shop owner told me most of the rattles and buzzes were coming from the sub enclosure itself. $360 including parts and labor and would do it again in a heartbeat.

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[Ksjrb03]

Thank you to the original poster and his and all other member followups on my desire to make my B&O sub rattle free. It is fine on 95% of the music I listen to, but rattles and buzzes on the other 5%.

I decided to have mine professionally soundproofed and insulated. Got a recommendation for a reputable, experienced auto shop. I dropped the Bronco off at 1030 Monday morning and it was ready by 330 that afternoon. 100% success.

The shop owner told me most of the rattles and buzzes were coming from the sub enclosure itself.$360 including parts and labor and would do it again in a heartbeat.

Awesome! Curious what did they do to the sub enclosure to fix your rattles.

 

[Patriotic]

I'll pull out the service receipt and post here, but I understand they wrapped the heck out of it with sheets of insulation. I remember someone on this thread had said to check the sub enclosure first, and whoever that was, was right. Very, very pleased with the work done in particular, and my Bronco in general.

 

[pony2bronco]

Anyone want to sell me their spare speaker? Probably going to do the 5 speaker upgrade

 

[Ksjrb03]

I'll pull out the service receipt and post here, but I understand they wrapped the heck out of it with sheets of insulation. I remember someone on this thread had said to check the sub enclosure first, and whoever that was, was right. Very, very pleased with the work done in particular, and my Bronco in general.

Haha that was me, and exactly what I did. Nice to see the pros found and fixed it the same way.

 

[cmcbronco]

I'm new and still waiting to get my Black Diamond Sasquatch with the mid package. In the mean time I've been making my lists of add-ons and its a long list!

I plan on adding better speakers mainly the dash and rears. I like what I've seen about the factory looking wire kit & Kicker 200.4 DSP amp that Plugnplaykits offers to fix the Bronco speaker system. However, I've been debating about adding a Subwoofer but not sure.

I was thinking if I did I'd like it to look factory inside the rear quarter panel where the factory B&O Sub goes. I know for models without it we get the little cubby in place. My thoughts were to maybe cut out or fab that cubby to mount a sub inside it in some fashion and make it look factory tucked away. Then I was thinking I could use the factory sub speaker cover that comes in the B&O system quarter panel and mount in that cutout. I would think the cubby shape cutout is the same cutout for the B&O sub speaker cover so they would be interchangeable. I don't know if they match up since I don't have mine yet. Anyone know if they do?

I wonder if Ksjrb03 or anyone else with the B&O setup can take off the factory sub speaker cover and provide the FORD part number for that speaker cover??

My other thought I had was to 3D scan the Factory Sub box mounting area as well as the box. Then I can redesign the 3D model and 3D print a better box build! I have a handheld 3D scanner & 3D Printer. This could be a great item to resell and far less expensive.

I added the B&O sub box to my base and just fabbed up my own speaker grille.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

 

[mblur05]

I added the B&O sub box to my base and just fabbed up my own speaker grille.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

That's awesome, any chance you have the measurements of the opening?
How about the measurements of the factory sub box? I really think if I could 3D scan one I could 3D print a better box than Ford has made and sell it too!

Also, I'm curious if anyone mounted a sub on the outside using the cubby as its box. Would an 8" fit or a 10" sub fit? However, the sub would be on the outside of the panel so a cover would be needed to protect the sub.

 

[Scotteasymoney]

Has anyone bought or tried the Kicker down firing? 10" vs12" kicker comp vs L7 square?

 

[cmcbronco]

That's awesome, any chance you have the measurements of the opening?
How about the measurements of the factory sub box? I really think if I could 3D scan one I could 3D print a better box than Ford has made and sell it too!

Also, I'm curious if anyone mounted a sub on the outside using the cubby as its box. Would an 8" fit or a 10" sub fit? However, the sub would be on the outside of the panel so a cover would be needed to protect the sub.

There’s no way to flush mount a sub to that hole. It’s just too flimsy. The plastic is pretty cheap and thin. I was going to make a box but buying the factory enclosure saved me a ton of time and effort.

 

[Meeru]

I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon

Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

Panel clips and part #s

Wiring drawing

Shop Manuals for removing trim

Thanks for this, will definitely be looking to upgrade my sound system when I get mine next month

 

[Hokiemike87]

Stupid question but is there three of the 4” speakers in the dash on the non B&O system? I don’t have my bronco yet but am buying audio replacements

No there are 2 on the non B&O systems. A right and a left, no center.

 

[Hokiemike87]

I just swapped our the two front dash corner speakers with Focal ACX100s and immediately ordered 2 more pairs for the center speaker and rears (will have an extra if anyone is interested). Wow, what a difference.

Will probably end up replacing the kick panel speakers as well. For $130, why not?

I would be interested in buying that speaker. Let me know.

 

[JL724]

I would be interested in buying that speaker. Let me know.

sorry that sold a while ago.

 

[Dmorty217]

No there are 2 on the non B&O systems. A right and a left, no center.

Good to know, now I can return my second set of 4” kickers and get $100 back

 

[SCTWNB]

I replaced the center channel speaker with a Hertz 100.3. I have an extra one if someone wants to make me an offer. These cost $160 shipped (for the pair from Crutchfield) so no possible fake speakers that are sold on Amazon/Ebay. Thanks!

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