Break-in oil change 2.7

[BulletTheBronco]

That was one of the easiest oil changes I’ve done in a long time. 4 bolts on the skid plates, top filter is a game changer and was nice to easily be able to see in your filter to see what you have running through it without cutting a filter open. Break in oil change is definitely needed in my opinion after seeing the amount of metal flakes in the filter. It is doing its job but there was a decent amount of metal in it. Motor craft filter and Mobil 1 Full synthetic and it is ready for the next 5,000. How many are sticking with motor craft vs others “superior” filter brands like K&N, Mobil 1, etc? I stuck with motor craft this time because I figured they designed the engine and know what it needs but curious what others think.

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[MrsTuffPaws]

No reason to use Motor Craft oil as several common brands have the required API Certification Mark

 

[scotman623]

kN oil filter and Royal purple 5/30

 

[CarbonSteel]

Not sticking with Motorcraft filters--FRAM Endurance has the highest efficiency and quality of construction for the money.

Also not sticking with Motorcraft oil. My first oil change was at 1000 miles and Motorcraft 5W-30 was already out of viscosity grade. The minimum viscosity for a 5W-30 is 9.3 @ 100°C and the Motorcraft was at 8.9 @ 100°C.

I am currently trending to see how other oils fare, but no way would I run Motorcraft for 5K miles as it would be a very thin xW-20 and the turbochargers would not like that long term.

 

[BulletTheBronco]

Not sticking with Motorcraft filters--FRAM Endurance has the highest efficiency and quality of construction for the money.

Also not sticking with Motorcraft oil. My first oil change was at 1000 miles and Motorcraft 5W-30 was already out of viscosity grade. The minimum viscosity for a 5W-30 is 9.3 @ 100°C and the Motorcraft was at 8.9 @ 100°C.

I am currently trending to see how other oils fare, but no way would I run Motorcraft for 5K miles as it would be a very thin xW-20 and the turbochargers would not like that long term.

No one mentioned motor craft oil. Just speaking to the filter. I run Mobil 1 full synthetic in everything I own and have owned.

 

[BulletTheBronco]

No reason to use Motor Craft oil as several common brands have the required API Certification Mark

Just speaking to the motor craft filter not oil. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic in everything I have.

 

[CrazyPete]

I just changed my oil at 1,500 miles. Used 0w-30 Mobil 1 oil and Fram Ultra Synthetic filter.

 

[HotLap]

First change was at 1400mi and I went with Mobil 1 full syn/Motorcraft filter. My filter didn’t have any metal shavings though. I saved it in a ziplock bag (for now) just in case of any engine issues later, (likely overkill, but after my GT350 Voodoo engine - some early engines had oil pump issues evidenced by metal shavings in filter), got in the habit.

 

[0ne]

That was one of the easiest oil changes I’ve done in a long time. 4 bolts on the skid plates, top filter is a game changer and was nice to easily be able to see in your filter to see what you have running through it without cutting a filter open. Break in oil change is definitely needed in my opinion after seeing the amount of metal flakes in the filter. It is doing its job but there was a decent amount of metal in it. Motor craft filter and Mobil 1 Full synthetic and it is ready for the next 5,000. How many are sticking with motor craft vs others “superior” filter brands like K&N, Mobil 1, etc? I stuck with motor craft this time because I figured they designed the engine and know what it needs but curious what others think.

I also had quite a bit of metal and miscellaneous debris in my first filter. I changed at ~4100 miles when the oil life was at 1% due to the high factory fill volume and visual condition of the oil. I also had fuel contamination common in the ecoboost engines, if allowed to excessively idle. I could smell the fuel and some spilled oil cleaned up too easily and the spill spot evaporated. I used the Ford factory filter and Ford synthetic blend oil filled to 6qt. Here’s some interesting information on the filter options:

https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...ewed-3-0l-2-7l-nano-ecoboost-engines.1210532/

Not sticking with Motorcraft filters--FRAM Endurance has the highest efficiency and quality of construction for the money.

Also not sticking with Motorcraft oil. My first oil change was at 1000 miles and Motorcraft 5W-30 was already out of viscosity grade. The minimum viscosity for a 5W-30 is 9.3 @ 100°C and the Motorcraft was at 8.9 @ 100°C.

I am currently trending to see how other oils fare, but no way would I run Motorcraft for 5K miles as it would be a very thin xW-20 and the turbochargers would not like that long term.

You may have had fuel contamination lowering the viscosity. It’s a thing on ecoboost engines allowed to excessively idle.

First change was at 1400mi and I went with Mobil 1 full syn/Motorcraft filter. My filter didn’t have any metal shavings though. I saved it in a ziplock bag (for now) just in case of any engine issues later, (likely overkill, but after my GT350 Voodoo engine - some early engines had oil pump issues evidenced by metal shavings in filter), got in the habit.

No metal shavings at all? Even deep deep down in the pleats?

 

[HotLap]

No metal shavings at all? Even deep deep down in the pleats?
[/QUOTE]

None I could see visually certainly nothing compared to the voodoo engines that were having oil pump issues…

 

[CarbonSteel]

No one mentioned motor craft oil. Just speaking to the filter. I run Mobil 1 full synthetic in everything I own and have owned.

I know, just sharing data (not opinion). Fuel dilution appears to be an issue with the 2.7L and unless it changes as I stack on a few miles, long oil change intervals are not going to be possible.

 

[CarbonSteel]

You may have had fuel contamination lowering the viscosity. It’s a thing on ecoboost engines allowed to excessively idle.

Fuel dilution appears to be a thing on Ecoboost engines period. The first 1,000 miles were from Dallas to Colorado Springs (flew to Dallas to buy it) and there was no idling. Open road is where the least dilution should happen, yet I had 2.5% (which is too much) on the first 1,000 mile oil change and 2.4% (also too much) on the second 1,000 mile oil change. The lab I use (Polaris) uses gas chromatography to determine fuel content so it is accurate (other labs such as Blackstone do not so the fuel concentration is not accurate).

Motorcraft oil did not stay in grade, the Mobil did on the second run, but it is M1 ESP 0W-30 so it begins with a much higher thickness than other M1 oils AND this is only a 1,000-mile run. I would opine that it would be out of grade on a 5K OCI. Just completed a 3,000-mile road trip so I'll see how it did. Unless I have the unicorn of 2.7L engines, one thing is for sure--forget about long oil change intervals in it.

 

[hotrodtim]

First oil change at 500 miles; Amsoil Signature and Amsoil filter. Also in our 3.5 t turbo Expedition; mainly for longevity with cam phasers and cold starts.

 

[bravely]

That was one of the easiest oil changes I’ve done in a long time. 4 bolts on the skid plates, top filter is a game changer and was nice to easily be able to see in your filter to see what you have running through it without cutting a filter open. Break in oil change is definitely needed in my opinion after seeing the amount of metal flakes in the filter. It is doing its job but there was a decent amount of metal in it. Motor craft filter and Mobil 1 Full synthetic and it is ready for the next 5,000. How many are sticking with motor craft vs others “superior” filter brands like K&N, Mobil 1, etc? I stuck with motor craft this time because I figured they designed the engine and know what it needs but curious what others think.

I've always used Purolator or Wix filters...for the bronco, Purolator. There are a lot of oil filter reviews available.

 

[Mikey D]

Valvoline Motor Oil. After spending 16 years working for them, I definitely trust the quality. Motorcraft filters, or even STP extended. Seems like Motorcraft does the job.

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