I wonder how many have broken on the test mules and roadeo Broncos. Gotta be several if Ford already had a performance upgrade for that part. I doubt any of this is new to Ford.
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The inner boot from the factory is completely sealed from any moisture due to it being an electric steering rack. So when you replace the rod, make sure it is completely sealed. If Any water gets in there, it will kill the rack and you will need to replace the entire unit.
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3 broken tie-rods out of however many thousand broncos have been off-roading and you call it embarrassing. There are manufacturing variances involved with any mass produced vehicle, it's possible the OP got one (hopefully only one) from a bum batch.
Go looking for broken X videos (Jeeps, land rovers, whatever) on youtube, there's lot of them.
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I agree. I don’t mind to be corrected as I’m new to all this stuff but we also need to remember that very few bronco owners out of the thousands out there are really testing their broncos off-road capabilities because of the high price tag they spent not wanting to damage them. I thank people like the original poster that sacrifice testing it out to see what breaks and share it with us.
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mismatched seats, body parts not completely painted, leaking roofs and allocation nonsense.
I know it would suck to be stranded especially solo but I would rather a cheap part break under stress than an expensive one if I'm having to foot the bill. This also further solidifies the fact I will never have my Sasquatch Badlands off-road and bought it purely for aesthetic reasons, lol.
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Non-engineer question here: Would the tie-rod need to be thicker to be more robust?
Asked another way: Could there be metallurgical / steel improvements to help prevent, or does one just need to increase the diameter of the rod?
Also, this reminds me of my favorite quote: “The plural of anecdote is not data.”
Asked another way: Could there be metallurgical / steel improvements to help prevent, or does one just need to increase the diameter of the rod?
Also, this reminds me of my favorite quote: “The plural of anecdote is not data.”
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Phil,
You are on it early this morning kind sir! Very nice of you!
Looks like they have all failed at the root of the thread. Obviously the weakest point (smallest diameter). One has to believe that FEA was performed on all the stress bearing parts. Typically you balance the loading and make the weak link something easy to fix. This seems like the best place to break. Easy to fix and probably the least costly.
Snapped like a twig on the Honda as well when having a close encounter with the curb. Wasn’t having nearly as much fun as you though.
However, the same words were spoken after it broke! Nice field fix!
However, the same words were spoken after it broke! Nice field fix!
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Was supposed to be off this week but the SM got the 'rona. Wouldn't want to trade places with him but I did have a bunch of stuff planned that ain't gonna happen meow.
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Curious... How does the Bronco tie rod compare to a Rubicon? Are they that much thinner?
** So just measured mine. The driver's side theaded section is 1.18 diam and the threaded link at the pitman arm is 1.00 diam (no threads actually at the passenger side)
Just wondering if it's because of IFS, are if Ford just didn't make them beefy enough.
It's sad to say, but outer tie rod ends are much better to replace as the weakest link than any other part of the steering system.
** So just measured mine. The driver's side theaded section is 1.18 diam and the threaded link at the pitman arm is 1.00 diam (no threads actually at the passenger side)
Just wondering if it's because of IFS, are if Ford just didn't make them beefy enough.
It's sad to say, but outer tie rod ends are much better to replace as the weakest link than any other part of the steering system.
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Beef up the tie rod enough until the next failure point is the rack. I'd rather have the <$100 than the >$1K replacement of the rack and be dead on the trail.
Are the tie rods snapping a failure of repeatedly over stressing the part or is it a once and snap thing?
Are the tie rods snapping a failure of repeatedly over stressing the part or is it a once and snap thing?
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Can the tie rods be thicker? Sure, then how pissed will you all be when you go out and explode the rack instead of a $50 tie rod?
This is what happens when you wheel fully locked in a sloppy mess climbing logs. You can't really be upset about it. Thats just wheeling.
If you're going out in your trucks order spare parts. Plain and simple.
Also, the thread says broken rack, was it really broken? It looks to me just like the tie rod snapped.
On any vehicle when your turning large tires and fully locked with no traction things like this happen, I've exploded full chromoly axle shafts from similar wheeling.
These trucks have large amounts of torque, when turned at full lock, and the accelerator is applied the energy has to go somewhere.
When wheeling these things, if you get a good amount of resistance when trying to turn the steering wheel you need to let off the wheel and reset your line.
This is what happens when you wheel fully locked in a sloppy mess climbing logs. You can't really be upset about it. Thats just wheeling.
If you're going out in your trucks order spare parts. Plain and simple.
Also, the thread says broken rack, was it really broken? It looks to me just like the tie rod snapped.
On any vehicle when your turning large tires and fully locked with no traction things like this happen, I've exploded full chromoly axle shafts from similar wheeling.
These trucks have large amounts of torque, when turned at full lock, and the accelerator is applied the energy has to go somewhere.
When wheeling these things, if you get a good amount of resistance when trying to turn the steering wheel you need to let off the wheel and reset your line.
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