- First Name
- Steve
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2023
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 4
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
- Vehicle(s)
- '23 Wildtrack 4-Door
- Your Bronco Model
- Wildtrak
Fair enough, do what makes you comfortable. It’s really light.
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I’m liking this setup. Let us know once you get it done and share some pics please. Thank you.I'm currently working on a 4 point system w/ electric winch using these:
I'm particularly interested in the balance point - that looks like a little far back to lift with reasonable balance. As near as I can tell, the slots are just about right.I’m liking this setup. Let us know once you get it done and share some pics please. Thank you.
Straps chain Cable rod and a couple 2x4 will work tops are not heavy. I have a stairway in the way so did not have that option so I came up with using the trolley.After the top is hoisted - I don't want the weight of the top and the panels suspended from the "roof rack" points on the roof. So - I will be bolting additional pieces of unistrut to the garage ceiling along the sides of the clamshell. Then I will attach 3/8 or 1/2" threaded rod (no different than is done for HVAC support brackets) I will use 2x3's from left to right to create a floating shelf that the clamshell can "rest" on - not going to detach it from the hoist - just take the weight off slightly. See rough sketch.
Think of it something like this - but only a single layer - supporting the bottom of the clamshell that can then support the weight of the panels (maybe need some sort of cargo net or plywood "floor")
Can always just use a pulley the top is pretty light. I use the hoist for other stuff as well. So it was worth the extra money. As the shelf I built for the roof lots of extra storage under the roof.after watching the video and seeing that you have to unscrew the rack mounts to release it, I think the rack might be the most stable attachment. Kind of like the threaded rod idea but it's already built in. The rack itself will easily support a couple of kayaks. I figure it's plenty strong and stable enough. That would be for litfting, not storing, as I'd be more comfortable with the supported better on the bottom. Lots of suggestions here for the actual stowage.
I don't have a hoist set up yet, it's in the plans once I get past the 8,341 other chores and assorted honeydoos in the schedule.
You'd be pretty close to the design weight - I prefer a bit of a margin of safety - purchase might not be great for such a small line either and could be difficult to use (might just need gloves, though). But my biggest concern would be using round hooks instead of flat hooks. Point load instead of distributing it along the slots - with as many flex/cracking issues as these roofs have had, I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable with that. But, it's cheap and if you don't "hang" it with the system but just use it as a lift and lift slowly and carefully it might be fine.Has anyone tried one of these? Looks like the hooks fit in the roof slot and are nicely rubber coated. Rated for more than enough weight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VWWVMQQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1.
Nice! Thanks for coordinating this and sharing. I have a lower ceiling height, so need to get my top up as high as possible. That said, is the 5’ length the sweet spot or could I go even shorter and go with a 4’ length? I need as much slack out of it as possible and to minimize the distance from the hoist hook to the connection point (D-Ring). I have a 4-door, so my top is a bit shorter than your 2-door, but width would be the same. Thank you.I needed a lower connection point with my ceiling height that using two straps provided so I had Custom Tie Downs make a new version for us that includes a 5 foot single strap with flat hooks on either end and a sliding D Ring that will self center. It also keeps the strap from flexing and maintains equal pressure between the flat hooks and the roof contact points.
I used a thick (2mm) rubber tape on the insides of each flat hook to protect the top.
Now getting the straps in the hard top lift points takes all of 5 seconds.
Here is the link to the new strap. It will work for both 2 and 4 doors.
Remember, you want 5 feet:
https://customtiedowns.com/product2...length=0&webbing=cw2k-y12pe&catlist=1&store=1
I feel ya. The strap could reach each hook point if it were six inches shorter but I chose five feet specifically because you don’t want too much lateral tension pulling the sides inward. Five feet sits at the perfect angle IMO for the hooks to apply force in a way that is structurally supported by the top.Nice! Thanks for coordinating this and sharing. I have a lower ceiling height, so need to get my top up as high as possible. That said, is the 5’ length the sweet spot or could I go even shorter and go with a 4’ length? I need as much slack out of it as possible and to minimize the distance from the hoist hook to the connection point (D-Ring). I have a 4-door, so my top is a bit shorter than your 2-door, but width would be the same. Thank you.
Thanks for the input. I already have a horizontal tube/pipe setup utilizing straps, and different pick points, so I’m not sure if I’ll gain anymore height switching methods. Here are some photos of my current setup, which works really good, but I’m still interested in hoisting it from the roof rack slots like you did.I feel ya. The strap could reach each hook point if it were six inches shorter but I chose five feet specifically because you don’t want too much lateral tension pulling the sides inward. Five feet sits at the perfect angle IMO for the hooks to apply force in a way that is structurally supported by the top.
If I were you, I’d buy two of these and connect them with a 1” steel tube with hook on either end attaching to the straps and an eye bolt in the center attaching to the hook in the hoist. Or to save height you can bolt the pipe directly to the hoist line and remove the hook.
my advice with a setup like that would be to get two straps strap like the one i linked and put a grommet in the exact center of each. Then bolt the strap to the top of your metal piece there (so they dont slide around). Do that for both straps equidistant from the center of the pipe (where your hook goes).Thanks for the input. I already have a horizontal tube/pipe setup utilizing straps, and different pick points, so I’m not sure if I’ll gain anymore height switching methods. Here are some photos of my current setup, which works really good, but I’m still interested in hoisting it from the roof rack slots like you did.
Thanks! I just ordered the 5' one you recommended and am going to do some experiementing with it to pick up some more height. Appreciate your help and ingenuity.my advice with a setup like that would be to get two straps strap like the one i linked and put a grommet in the exact center of each. Then bolt the strap to the top of your metal piece there (so they dont slide around). Do that for both straps equidistant from the center of the pipe (where your hook goes).
From what I can see, you'd gain 8 inches or more. Another 5 inches or more if you got rid of the hook and used an eye bolt in the center of your metal tube and ran the pulley director through the eye instead of the hook.