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High Temps Warning, Boosted

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Wildtrak
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Not saying OP is wrong or anything - he's clearing distinguishing between coolant and oil temps - but for some here there may be some confusion

I don't have a monitor hooked up so I can't see what Coolant temp is precisely, but I've never seen the coolant temp indicator budget from 4 bars (just short of middle of the gauge). I don't know of any built-in display on the IPC that shows what actual coolant temp is.

You can see oil temp in the Off Road section. That isn't the same thing as coolant temp though. My "normal" oil temp is anywhere from 195-225F, depending on how hard I'm pushing, what the HVAC system is doing, etc.

I could very well believe that a long haul at a steady 20psi boost could overwhelm the cooling system. May be time to consider manually downshifting or re-gearing lower to get to a lower boost value, holding at very near max boost for a sustained time is just gonna be hard on a lot of things there.

With that said, yeah, I could see a cooler T-stat holding the oil cooler down a bit longer, but I think if you are maxing out that 20psi boost thing indefinitely, you are gonna overwhelm that too - you need a bigger/more efficient oil cooler to go with it. All the T-stat is going to buy you is a bit more time before you get back up to just about the same temps you've been hitting - just a function of that oil cooler.
I hear you. I’ve chased this in other loaded engines starting with of all things my Early Broncos - a lot of times it winds up being an oil cooler. I’ll start with thermostat as a cheap experiment. The Baxter / Mishimoto idea I have for oil is pricey and potentially a PITA to fit in. Your down shift comment is good, I forget that on these 10 speeds I have more to play with at high speeds; I don’t haul heavy enough to want to re gear although that would address the below loaded truck
issue.

And @RHeinz I hear you too; but though not ideal it’s not as bad as it looks, that bumper has more decent air passage to the intercooler and general ventilation not seen in that pic - especially at speed. And it’s a big intercooler with a good spec for heat rejection.

And as for the problem Iā€˜m trying to beat, it looks like weight - and the end of this camping trip I hit a CAT Scale on the way home - 7360 lbs. Grossed up for the extra food, water, gas cans, ice and and extra passenger who wasnā€˜t on the scale, I was at 7745 lbs fully loaded. I’ll weigh it empty this week after unloading.
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CatMonkey

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Not saying OP is wrong or anything - he's clearing distinguishing between coolant and oil temps - but for some here there may be some confusion

I don't have a monitor hooked up so I can't see what Coolant temp is precisely, but I've never seen the coolant temp indicator budget from 4 bars (just short of middle of the gauge). I don't know of any built-in display on the IPC that shows what actual coolant temp is.

You can see oil temp in the Off Road section. That isn't the same thing as coolant temp though. My "normal" oil temp is anywhere from 195-225F, depending on how hard I'm pushing, what the HVAC system is doing, etc.

I could very well believe that a long haul at a steady 20psi boost could overwhelm the cooling system. May be time to consider manually downshifting or re-gearing lower to get to a lower boost value, holding at very near max boost for a sustained time is just gonna be hard on a lot of things there.

With that said, yeah, I could see a cooler T-stat holding the oil cooler down a bit longer, but I think if you are maxing out that 20psi boost thing indefinitely, you are gonna overwhelm that too - you need a bigger/more 3efficient oil cooler to go with it. All the T-stat is going to buy you is a bit more time before you get back up to just about the same temps you've been hitting - just a function of that oil cooler.
You can get actual ECT readings by datalogging. I'm sure some tuning devices or phone apps can display actual coolant temps through the OBD port as well.

You say engine temps have nothing to do with oil temps, but there is a correlation between the two. You see the oil cooler on the Bronco uses engine coolant to cool the oil. If OP had a lower coolant temp for low load situations, he might not get as hot when he is in high load. My oil temps run pretty close to ECTs and declined with the lower thermostat. I don't haul a lot of weight.

And as for the problem Iā€˜m trying to beat, it looks like weight - and the end of this camping trip I hit a CAT Scale on the way home - 7360 lbs. Grossed up for the extra food, water, gas cans, ice and and extra passenger who wasnā€˜t on the scale, I was at 7745 lbs fully loaded. I’ll weigh it empty this week after unloading.
You're running three times the maximum payload capacity of my 2023 WT. Cooling issues are the least of your concerns if that scale is accurate. 7,800# is a ton and a half over my 2023 WT's shipping weight. You might want to find out the weight ratings for both axles.
 
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Fully empty today I weighed in on a CAT scale at 6060 lbs, and sit as pictured. Door sill GVWR is 6140 lbs., which I’ll be over with the spare and a passenger.

While I definitely overloaded it, I’ll always be overweight on a trip. Going to try the cooler thermostat anyway.

Regarding suspension, where I’ll move to after this because it’s not about cooling:
I’m seeing lots of spring sag developing in other HOSS 3.0 threads, and a consensus seems to be Eibach 2.0. I asked Eibach today about the beefier option for rear and they said:
ā€œ
There are currently no plans for a Bronco Stage 2R kit.

- Team Eibachā€

I’m going to run my specs past Accutune and look at Fox 3.0 for the remote reservoir.

Ford Bronco High Temps Warning, Boosted IMG_0574
 

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Fully empty today I weighed in on a CAT scale at 6060 lbs, and sit as pictured. Door sill GVWR is 6140 lbs., which I’ll be over with the spare and a passenger.

While I definitely overloaded it, I’ll always be overweight on a trip. Going to try the cooler thermostat anyway.

Regarding suspension, where I’ll move to after this because it’s not about cooling:
I’m seeing lots of spring sag developing in other HOSS 3.0 threads, and a consensus seems to be Eibach 2.0. I asked Eibach today about the beefier option for rear and they said:
ā€œ
There are currently no plans for a Bronco Stage 2R kit.

- Team Eibachā€

I’m going to run my specs past Accutune and look at Fox 3.0 for the remote reservoir.

IMG_0574.jpeg
I think the Fox 2.5, Ride or King's shocks. all of which have remote reservoirs, would be cheaper and every bit as good, especially if you spring for their tuning mods. Besides the winch and front bumper what else are you running that has put on that much more weight?
 
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I think the Fox 2.5, Ride or King's shocks. all of which have remote reservoirs, would be cheaper and every bit as good, especially if you spring for their tuning mods. Besides the winch and front bumper what else are you running that has put on that much more weight?
Bumpers, bash plates, BFGs and bolt-ons (engine/exhaust/suspension upgrades). Sad but that’s it. I’ll be just overweight sitting at curb empty once the TOR hard top goes on, hard to believe. Add 2 pax and basic road trip tools/jack/recovery, cooler, spare and extra fuel that’s easily another 750 lbs. This will take more looking into, eventually early drivetrain wear.
 

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Bumpers, bash plates, BFGs and bolt-ons (engine/exhaust/suspension upgrades). Sad but that’s it. I’ll be just overweight sitting at curb empty once the TOR hard top goes on, hard to believe. Add 2 pax and basic road trip tools/jack/recovery, cooler, spare and extra fuel that’s easily another 750 lbs. This will take more looking into, eventually early drivetrain wear.
Mine is very similar setup (same color even) but not sure what curb weight I’m running at.

I can say I did just do fluid in my front diff (m190) and there was a lot of metallic wear in the oil. It looked like sand - almost the entire fluid was full of it. 30k on that oil. It probably won’t last much longer (45k miles now). My weenie steering rack looked fine though - no wear that I could see at all.

I don’t have a steel rear bumper or all the bash plates yet. But front plates, steel front, winch, RSEs, some gear in the back (not a full overland getup but basic stuff), etc.

If the TOR one is anything like the Rally top - it weighs much less than the soft top. That soft top frame and canvas is heavy.
 
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Mine is very similar setup (same color even) but not sure what curb weight I’m running at.

I can say I did just do fluid in my front diff (m190) and there was a lot of metallic wear in the oil. It looked like sand - almost the entire fluid was full of it. 30k on that oil. It probably won’t last much longer (45k miles now). My weenie steering rack looked fine though - no wear that I could see at all.

I don’t have a steel rear bumper or all the bash plates yet. But front plates, steel front, winch, RSEs, some gear in the back (not a full overland getup but basic stuff), etc.

If the TOR one is anything like the Rally top - it weighs much less than the soft top. That soft top frame and canvas is heavy.
It’s 14.00 to weigh at a scale, you should give it a try one day.

And TOR vs soft top, I’m going off this thread and 215 lbs for TOR HT on their site. Looks like about a 100 lb add - plus roof rack and lights, I just remembered.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/omg-the-soft-top-is-heavy.35934/
 

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It’s 14.00 to weigh at a scale, you should give it a try one day.

And TOR vs soft top, I’m going off this thread and 215 lbs for TOR HT on their site. Looks like about a 100 lb add - plus roof rack and lights, I just remembered.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/omg-the-soft-top-is-heavy.35934/
Wow. rally top, not sure the official weight but I can install / remove that myself without a hoist without too much trouble and my workouts consist of 1 pint curls. I’d ā€œeyeballā€ it under 100lbs for the rear half.

Rack adds some to that though, I don’t have one or any intention of adding one now.

Next time i have some time to kill down in town I’ll swing by a scale just to find out. I know my wheels clock in around 90lbs each for 35s
 

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After a warning or two on the cluster while on a long highway haul with full load and headwinds, I decided to look into a cooler thermostat.

https://www.lethalperformance.com/reische-performance-ford-50-170-performance-thermostat-gen-2.html

While the CS Fab radiator has reduced high running temps, I’m still seeing peaks unnecessarily at 20 lbs boost and tuned at 91-93 octane; I didn’t have my HUD up to see the coolant temp at that time. . But generally seeing up to 221 ECT and 243 oil temp at the high end during serious trail grinds.

After I install I’ll share results.
What did you have to do to the engine to make it run hot?
 
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What did you have to do to the engine to make it run hot?
Hauling a$$ across West Texas into a headwind, overloaded. Just the usual, every 2-3 months on the way to CO, Moab, etc.
 

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Did you block off the huge holes in the rad shroud after you removed the oem intercooler? If you did not that will drastically affect cooling.
@GreyZ I’m coming back to this, missed your suggestion before. Can you elaborate on this a bit more, I’m not getting it. Thanks.
 

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It’s 14.00 to weigh at a scale, you should give it a try one day.

It's free to weigh at a scrapyard šŸ™‚ don't even necessarily have to scrap anything. Drive on, see your weight.. whip it around once you exit the scale and head on home šŸ’ŖšŸ»

They might get annoyed if you make a habit of it though lol
 

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Bumpers, bash plates, BFGs and bolt-ons (engine/exhaust/suspension upgrades). Sad but that’s it. I’ll be just overweight sitting at curb empty once the TOR hard top goes on, hard to believe. Add 2 pax and basic road trip tools/jack/recovery, cooler, spare and extra fuel that’s easily another 750 lbs. This will take more looking into, eventually early drivetrain wear.
Accutune's Ride and King Shocks have a few extra weight spring options, that would apply to your vehicle.
 
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It's free to weigh at a scrapyard šŸ™‚ don't even necessarily have to scrap anything. Drive on, see your weight.. whip it around once you exit the scale and head on home šŸ’ŖšŸ»

They might get annoyed if you make a habit of it though lol
I was about to say something smart aleck like, ā€œI thought people in Vermont were tight, but…….ā€œ.
On the other hand, I drove past a scrap yard on my way to the CAT scales today and wish I thought of this first!
 

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@GreyZ I’m coming back to this, missed your suggestion before. Can you elaborate on this a bit more, I’m not getting it. Thanks.
When you remove the stock intercooler you are left with this gaping hole that allows all of the air going through your radiator fans to bypass the radiator. image is from below, looking upwards. This means your radiator fans are effectivly doing nothing and will cause overheating.
Ford Bronco High Temps Warning, Boosted rad openin


Below is an image of the bolted in plastic blocker that I made to force the air to be pulled through the radiator. (Red Piece looking in the front grill opening)
Ford Bronco High Temps Warning, Boosted rad blocker
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