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HOW TO: MagSafe Wireless Charger Install in Factory Location - DIY
- Thread starter j_anderson
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Yesssss
OP
OP
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- #93
I'd buy one from you once you verify fitment. I'd like to have a spare plate without a hole just for future.
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That’s what I was trying to figure out - if it’s faster charging from the actual USB-C port or cig lighter adapter w/USB-C. Good to know. Thanks.
OP
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No problem. It really just depends on the power source or cig lighter adapter. The factory usb-c isn't going to offer enough power for speed charging but there may be 12v cig power adapters that do. The coolgear power supply I installed in this mod supplies enough power to the MagSafe puck to charge at the full 15w and if you plugged a usb-c to lighting cable into the same port, it would supply enough power to speed charge the iPhone.
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I just did the mod wasn’t that hard only concern is the charger is on 24/7 it seems, could be useful but worrying about battery draw problems down the line might look for a key on 12 volt power source
OP
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I believe the power port that is tapped shuts down after 30 mins and remains off until the door is opened again but I’d need to observe to be sure
OP
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Thanks!
That’s good
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For those that don’t want to deal with the 3D printing, I found this flush mount. I ordered it along with the other parts listed out by OP. Thanks for the trail map here!
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Any update? I’m anxious to do this because the feeling built in charger is worthless lol
Today I completed my installation of a MagSafe charger in the factory position for the 7 speed MT. I followed @j_anderson process step by step and installed the same power supply that they did. I did install the power supply in a different location. I don't know if the automatic is a bit different under the console but in the 7 speed there is a nice big hunk of plastic bolted in the middle of the console area right by the grab bar mounting screw. I could not get the power supply positioned in a way that I liked so I moved it (pictures below).
To cut a hole in the block plate I used a Lenox 2 1/2" hole saw from Amazon. You need to clamp it down well some it does not move, go slow with the drill and it will cut right through - took about 30 seconds if that. I did not have to sand or cut anymore once the hole was cut - the MagSafe puck holder fit nice and tight.
My puck holder was 3D printed by a friend of mine. I shouldn't complain but it was a bit ragged. I did some sanding on it and sprayed it with a couple of coats of Matte Black Enamel to even out the finish.
The power supply comes with #4 USB 3.0 inputs and #1 USB C type input. The MagSafe puck plugged into the C type input. I ran two extensions up behind the HVAC controls - I plan on adding a dash charging site next weekend (see @j_anderson dash charging DIY thread) - yes I steal all of my mod ideas.
. I ran another charging cord to the center console just to have another charging option and then I used the last USB 3.0 input to run a charging cord to the back seat. I ran this one straight out the back of the console and tucked it under the center hump floor mat. It is out of sight unless someone in the back needs it (it will probably never get used in my lifetime).
This is really an easy mod. The only thing I was nervous about was cutting the hole in the block plate but as I mentioned above it was a breeze.
For those that have a 7 MT - when you go to remove the console. Start at the back where the cup holders are - the console pops up very easy here. Move toward the front of the car popping the console up as you go. When you have the console removed reach under and push up on the stick shift skirt. It will pop out very easy. I tried to pop the skirt out before I removed the console and thought I was either going to break it or tear the skirt. It was much easier to do this part after the console was removed.
I did have one problem that cost me about 1 1/2 hours of time. When I was unpacking the power supply I heard a 'clink' in the console. I thought it was the mounting screws that fell out of the box and since I wasn't going to use those I didn't think much of it. Well......I soon found out that what had fallen out was the 2-pin connector for the power input. Without it I was dead in the water. I looked for it for 1.5 hours and could not find it. I had my wife help me look (I never ask my wife to help me on a car project - not good for the marriage). I was that desperate. At the back of the console there is a power inverter that is mounted about 1.5 inches off the floor in the front and it slopes to about 0.5 inches off the floor in the back. It has two large wiring harnesses that thread under the inverter and plug in at the back of the console. There is a small opening between the harness and the mounting bracket and I quickly estimated that where was about a 1 in 4,750,500 change the connector could have fallen and bounced thru this small opening but I looked anyway and couldn't see anything under the inverter. Finally I decided to disconnect the wiring and unhook the harness from its mount. That took a while and a sacrifice of a couple bloody knuckles. I finally got it off and moved the wiring out of the way and lo and behold the 2-pin connector was under the inverter. Just so you know my marriage survived this ordeal.
\
To cut a hole in the block plate I used a Lenox 2 1/2" hole saw from Amazon. You need to clamp it down well some it does not move, go slow with the drill and it will cut right through - took about 30 seconds if that. I did not have to sand or cut anymore once the hole was cut - the MagSafe puck holder fit nice and tight.
My puck holder was 3D printed by a friend of mine. I shouldn't complain but it was a bit ragged. I did some sanding on it and sprayed it with a couple of coats of Matte Black Enamel to even out the finish.
The power supply comes with #4 USB 3.0 inputs and #1 USB C type input. The MagSafe puck plugged into the C type input. I ran two extensions up behind the HVAC controls - I plan on adding a dash charging site next weekend (see @j_anderson dash charging DIY thread) - yes I steal all of my mod ideas.
. I ran another charging cord to the center console just to have another charging option and then I used the last USB 3.0 input to run a charging cord to the back seat. I ran this one straight out the back of the console and tucked it under the center hump floor mat. It is out of sight unless someone in the back needs it (it will probably never get used in my lifetime). This is really an easy mod. The only thing I was nervous about was cutting the hole in the block plate but as I mentioned above it was a breeze.
For those that have a 7 MT - when you go to remove the console. Start at the back where the cup holders are - the console pops up very easy here. Move toward the front of the car popping the console up as you go. When you have the console removed reach under and push up on the stick shift skirt. It will pop out very easy. I tried to pop the skirt out before I removed the console and thought I was either going to break it or tear the skirt. It was much easier to do this part after the console was removed.
I did have one problem that cost me about 1 1/2 hours of time. When I was unpacking the power supply I heard a 'clink' in the console. I thought it was the mounting screws that fell out of the box and since I wasn't going to use those I didn't think much of it. Well......I soon found out that what had fallen out was the 2-pin connector for the power input. Without it I was dead in the water. I looked for it for 1.5 hours and could not find it. I had my wife help me look (I never ask my wife to help me on a car project - not good for the marriage). I was that desperate. At the back of the console there is a power inverter that is mounted about 1.5 inches off the floor in the front and it slopes to about 0.5 inches off the floor in the back. It has two large wiring harnesses that thread under the inverter and plug in at the back of the console. There is a small opening between the harness and the mounting bracket and I quickly estimated that where was about a 1 in 4,750,500 change the connector could have fallen and bounced thru this small opening but I looked anyway and couldn't see anything under the inverter. Finally I decided to disconnect the wiring and unhook the harness from its mount. That took a while and a sacrifice of a couple bloody knuckles. I finally got it off and moved the wiring out of the way and lo and behold the 2-pin connector was under the inverter. Just so you know my marriage survived this ordeal.
I tried to do this today as well. Unfortunately the bottom of the charger well is one piece with the factory charger. I’ll need to order a replacement bottom I think. Why replace the OEM charger you ask? Because the factory charger technically works, but charges slow and makes my phone hot. If anyone can shoot me a part number for that piece, I’d be much obliged.
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- First Name
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Anybody have a source for the USB power source? Everywhere seems to be backordered.
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