Locking axles recommendations?

[Snacktime]

Your cheapest option is

$600 labor Set-up gear
$200 to wire up switch
$300 3.73 gears + Install Kit
$1000-1500 for the locker

Realistic option,

$1200 for a 4.46 gear m190 front
$2500 for a 4.46 M220 Rear
$1000 labor + switch install(regular not from ford)

The correct way,

$1800 for a 4.71 gear m210 front
$500 for M210 cv axles
$2500 for 4.71 M220 Rear
$700 ProCal
$1000 labor + switches install(regular not from ford)

You are asking a very expensive question. Since your asking how I will assume you aren't doing the labor. Get past the factory integration as ford performance sucks ass and can't help you with any technical issues. If you want factory switches I would charge you per hour. You can watch me pick my nose on the phone after fallowing the instruction and nothing working like it should.

If you want factory integration go trade up at dealer, its cheaper.

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[Bellime]

Your cheapest option is

$600 labor Set-up gear
$200 to wire up switch
$300 3.73 gears + Install Kit
$1000-1500 for the locker

Realistic option,

$1200 for a 4.46 gear m190 front
$2500 for a 4.46 M220 Rear
$1000 labor + switch install(regular not from ford)

The correct way,

$1800 for a 4.71 gear m210 front
$500 for M210 cv axles
$2500 for 4.71 M220 Rear
$700 ProCal
$1000 labor + switches install(regular not from ford)

You are asking a very expensive question. Since your asking how I will assume you aren't doing the labor. Get past the factory integration as ford performance sucks ass and can't help you with any technical issues. If you want factory switches I would charge you per hour. You can watch me pick my nose on the phone after fallowing the instruction and nothing working like it should.

If you want factory integration go trade up at dealer, its cheaper.

You missed a bunch of details and made a few bad assumptions, thus not worth the read.

 

[dgorsett]

Can’t I get the base 4.27 rear locking axle from Ford instead of the upgrade 4.46?

You probably could get a 4.27 locker rear axle from Ford Parts, but since you have the 3.73 you would really be better off getting the 4.46 since you have to do the front too anyway. That way either now or in the future you could upgrade to the front locker as well. The other option would be to look at non Ford aftermarket (Eaton?), then you could keep the 3.73 and not have to do the front.

My genius idea was to get a Big Bend because I liked it the best and build it to Black Diamond capability. That actually worked perfectly...except...had I gotten the Black Diamond I could have easily upgraded to the 4.46 front locker, whereas the Big Bend 4.27 is not available in a locker from Ford.

EDIT: Just read @Snacktime s response, right as usual, my first option is essentially his second and my second is his first, I left of the third option because I'm really cheap , but really his first or my second option should work for what you want.

 

[Bellime]

You probably could get a 4.27 locker rear axle from Ford Parts, but since you have the 3.73 you would really be better off getting the 4.46 since you have to do the front too anyway. That way either now or in the future you could upgrade to the front locker as well. The other option would be to look at non Ford aftermarket (Eaton?), then you could keep the 3.73 and not have to do the front.

My genius idea was to get a Big Bend because I liked it the best and build it to Black Diamond capability. That actually worked perfectly...except...had I gotten the Black Diamond I could have easily upgraded to the 4.46 front locker, whereas the Big Bend 4.27 is not available in a locker from Ford.

I am leaning toward the 4.46 setup, but would love to figure out how to integrate the switches into the Hero switch module. separate thread

 

[Brian_B]

You missed a bunch of details and made a few bad assumptions, thus not worth the read.

It was actually a pretty good post. But it's your Bronco and you can do what you want with it.

I'm in the process of doing what you want to do (add a rear ELD). I got lucky and found a takeoff, and happen to have 4.46 to begin with, but the options Snacktime laid out were pretty much the same conclusions I came to myself.

Adding Factory Integrated anything - after the fact - almost universally costs much more than getting it built in from the factory. But usually there is an aftermarket solution that would be less expensive (and just as, if not more so capable) to do what you want to do. Just a matter of what you want to do.

 

[Haelous]

I have tried piecing together parts instead of buying Ford Performance kits in the past.

I would highly recommend buying the FP kits if they exist for your need. Everything is packaged very well. The kits are turnkey and their staff is very helpful if you have any concerns or questions.

 

[Spooled]

Your cheapest option is

$600 labor Set-up gear
$200 to wire up switch
$300 3.73 gears + Install Kit
$1000-1500 for the locker

Realistic option,

$1200 for a 4.46 gear m190 front
$2500 for a 4.46 M220 Rear
$1000 labor + switch install(regular not from ford)

The correct way,

$1800 for a 4.71 gear m210 front
$500 for M210 cv axles
$2500 for 4.71 M220 Rear
$700 ProCal
$1000 labor + switches install(regular not from ford)

You are asking a very expensive question. Since your asking how I will assume you aren't doing the labor. Get past the factory integration as ford performance sucks ass and can't help you with any technical issues. If you want factory switches I would charge you per hour. You can watch me pick my nose on the phone after fallowing the instruction and nothing working like it should.

If you want factory integration go trade up at dealer, its cheaper.

Good post. Threads like this is why everyone at minimum should be checking off that $795 option for 4.27's and the rear locker when ordering. It's beyond a no-brainer.

 

[Brian_B]

I would highly recommend buying the FP kits if they exist for your need. Everything is packaged very well. The kits are turnkey and their staff is very helpful if you have any concerns or questions.

Yup, this is what I found as well. You can add a locker to the standard (non-ELD) Bronco rear end, but there were three things that made it not worth it for me

- You weren't really saving any money over just buying an entire new rear end - the lockers are not cheap, and you need an entire new carrier since Ford welds the standards, and by the time you do that and get them installed at a regear shop, your at about the same price as an entire new rear end.

- The ELD-equipped rear end uses different length axles than the standard rear end and has the electric connector built into the housing. So almost everything on that rear end, if you add a locker to the standard, is going to be a pain to service in the future since nothing is going to match up to what is factory standard any longer.

- You get a warranty if you buy the new rear end. If you go cutting up your existing one, you just lost a good chunk of your drivetrain warranty.

Now, with a 3.73, if you wanted to get a Ford Performance axle there, you also have to do the front end, either re-gearing or replacement, which adds cost - admittedly. So that makes the "adding a locker to the 3.73" a bit more palatable even though it may cost as much as a new rear end outright. But I think Snacktime has a good point - if you are going to all this trouble to add in a locker, why wouldn't you also upgrade the gearing at the same time?

 

[BeachTiger]

I sympathize with your situation. About 15 years ago I dropped a lot of coin on a Jeep TJ regearing, adding ARB air lockers, upgraded shafts, compressor, etc. and it cost many thousands, as the previous posts accurately suggest it would also cost you. But my rig was specifically built for rock crawling, and though it cost a lot I could arguably justify the expense.

In your scenario (muddy logging roads), I might abandon for now the idea of adding lockers altogether unless/until you are at a point where you also are sure you need lower gears (numerically higher); i.e., moving up to like 35". It might be wiser just to spend your money on some better tires and recovery gear. Maybe on board air to make airing down easier, too.

Just my .02

 

[Brian_B]

You know what - I'm going to eat some crow here - I just found this:

A ready-to-install Bronco ELD with a 3.73 ratio

https://danaproparts.com/i-30498011...elocker-69-in-width.html?ref=category:1389866

I'm kind of shocked this exists - but there it is.

 

[Snacktime]

You know what - I'm going to eat some crow here - I just found this:

A ready-to-install Bronco ELD with a 3.73 ratio

https://danaproparts.com/i-30498011...elocker-69-in-width.html?ref=category:1389866

I'm kind of shocked this exists - but there it is.

I was going to suggest weld the spider gears together as 3.73 bronco parts are worth nothing. Much better option!

 

[RagnarKon]

Another option I don't think has been mentioned yet:

Air lockers

 

[eugenemoyer8]

I am leaning toward the 4.46 setup, but would love to figure out how to integrate the switches into the Hero switch module. separate thread

you could get a eaton true track and a 373 gear for a Jeep JL and have somebody install it you need no wiring
I have a base Bronco automatic for the 373 gear and that's what I plan on doing

 

[Lcubed]

you could get a eaton true track and a 373 gear for a Jeep JL and have somebody install it you need no wiring
I have a base Bronco automatic for the 373 gear and that's what I plan on doing

how plug and play is gettin the eaton tru track and 3.73 jeep gears into the bronco diff?

 

[eugenemoyer8]

The eaton true track is made for the Ford Bronco and the Jeep JL with the m220 the Jeep JL ring and pinion in 373 ratio will work in the Bronco axle you'll have to find someone to set it up for you but this is what I plan on doing because it's there all the time giving you additional traction as opposed to a locking differential that you have to take in and out if you do get one wheel off the ground you have to slightly apply the brake to get the true track to work to give you traction into the other wheel

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