I have a new bumper waiting at home and a winch mount and winch on backorder. I hope this doesn’t increase the problem but it makes sense that it would with the extra weight.
It sounds like you gave your Bronco one HELL of a workout, and found a minor limitation. Extra weight in front is surely going to add to the limitation, but now that you know the symptoms to look for, and know that the solution is to let the thing take a cool down break, you should be able to manage it. Hopefully Ford will release a HD rack like raptor and HOSS 3.0 for us Badlanders that wheel hard!
The pics don’t really do the terrain any justice. Those were where we aired up and down but most of what we actually did was all rocks, 3”-18” tall on the loose rocks, and rock ledges 3”-20” in height, until we made it into the heavy trees. 90% of it was uphill or downhill at about 7 to 20 degrees. Not anything super hard core but not anything easy either. You’re right, I probably would have been fine running a higher psi since I never slipped a tire other than in the mud. I’ll definitely experiment with 15 next time and see how it goes.
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). Thanks for the feedback.Ah, gotcha. Alright so pending @flip ’s diagnosis, if it really is your steering motor going into limp mode, I’m going with it’s the angle of your tie rods pushing up on your ballscrew into the housing on the passenger side and that’s making your motor say “I’m done” til you reset the bronco and it just works again. It’s easy enough to check if you’re willing to drop the rack. You’d just remove the housing on the passenger side to check for cracks/rubbing and check your ballscrew for shavings. Here’s what I had on my ballscrew when I wiped it with a shop towel:
GOAT modes. Mostly rock crawl while manually engaging and disengaging front locker. I did run mud/ruts once in the mud.
Interesting, same symptoms as others who ended up purchasing that housing. Next time that happens, could you restart the bronco and see if that fixes it immediately? Turn off, open the door, wait a couple seconds and turn it back on.
but do remove those braces at least before taking it in.That was probably me! Im one of the few Broncos that has an out of spec steering rack which the first batches of the bushing didn’t account for. Made my steering really tight and unable to return to center on its own. When I finally figured out it was the bushing and not the new UCAs that went on same time, they sent me the updated one.
It depends on how hot my turbos are. If they’re heated up, I’m not shutting it off until they cool down. According to what @flip found in the service manuals, this is definitely heat related but until I can get it in the shop and inspect the housing, I don’t know if it’s more than that, or if it’s a sensor, or a recalibration issue from when I changed my tire circumference in Forscan, or if it’s a damaged rack. Because of the circumstances and what’s pointed out in the service manual, the most likely scenario is it just overheated due to the ambient temperature, my 500 point turn right beforehand and being aired down on top of that. It literally points out all of the things I did except airing down and says it will just do that from time to time in those conditions.Interesting, same symptoms as others who ended up purchasing that housing. Next time that happens, could you restart the bronco and see if that fixes it immediately? Turn off, open the door, wait a couple seconds and turn it back on.
either way this goes, my first route would be seeing if the dealer would warranty this fix (likely a rack replacement). Do you have everything and more that would make them deny it? Maybe but doesn’t hurt to try
If you are in low range, it is almost impossible to have your turbos hot enough to need to worry about shutting it down. Just a reassurance that you likely don't need to worry about it unless you are in high range really wailing on it in the mud.
