I do have a teenage driver, but I dont think she would hide that from me. Now im gonna ask though
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I do have a teenage driver, but I dont think she would hide that from me. Now im gonna ask though
So just got back from camping the other day. Noticed some unusual front tire wear on the trip. Keep in mind the only thing I have done is some very basic fire roads. I take it to a local Les-Schwab to have the alignment checked out. I get a phone call that they wont touch it due to sub frame damage, and thats why I have unusual positive camber and toe in. Its a stock 4-door Badlands Sasquatch.
The frame bracket that connects the lower control arm to the actual frame is pretty bent. Has anyone else experienced this?
It is at a body shop to see what the heck is going on. Ill update as I know more.
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That won’t be covered under warranty, it is damage. How many miles on the truck? It will need a new frame, you should have it looked at and contract your insurance company.
You will have a hard time finding someone who will straighten the bracket, they would be liable if it fails in the future. Most shops won’t clip a frame either for the same reason. The only reason clips are available is that Texas requires the title to be branded if the frame is replaced, but not if it is sectioned. That makes no sense, but that’s their law. A whole frame is the only way to fix it and it won’t cost much more, if any.MB3Z-5019-N is going to be about your only option as far as part is concerned, short of the full frame.
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Would need to see how bad it is before suggesting just having the ears pulled on a frame rack. "Technically", you aren't supposed to do repairs, short of sections, according to the OEM. Just making some assumptions about the damage, it being my own personal vehicle, I'd likely try to have the ears pulled back into shape. That's assuming they aren't folded over and the frame lasers out good everywhere else, crossmember isn't caved in and ears don't crack or tear during the pull. Would avoid heating like we did decades ago when we straightened the "normal" steel frames.
The front clip has a list price of almost $4,400 and can easily see 30+ hours to replace correctly.
Pics would help but it's either a minor job or, awwwww f.
these just showed up yesterdayBending the LCA mounting bracket is a pretty common issue. I have the same problem. Depending on how bad it is it may affect your alignment (mine doesn't yet...).
I've been on the lookout for LCA mounting bracket for sometime. It's surprising no after market parts are available yet -- I want to just chop it off and weld on beefier ones -- the stock one is just think sheet metal.
The Toyota guys (4runner / tocoma) have a lot of options for these things.
I would definitely be taking that in for someone to do. I can't weld, and if I tried would probably roll over and pull the ground off and FRIIIIZZZZZZZZZZIIIIIPPP!And installed. Not proud of these welds in any capacity. Doesn’t help that I don’t know shit about welding, but to compound the badness whilst laying on my side the sunlight coming through the mask acted as a mirror, so while trying to see what I’m working on all I see is my stupid confused face staring back at me
Does anyone else get super worried about welding on these new rigs and disconnect both battery terminals plus all the ECU connections then keep the ground as close as possible to the work? Might be overkill but I just don’t want to fry something
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That’s what mine looked like!From my post-Rubicon inspection:
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Respectfully disagree, wasn’t hard for me to find someone and as long as it’s heated up, bent back and then reinforced it’s even stronger then original. The only way the factory would warranty them though is by replacing the frame. They don’t do frame repairs at dealerships. This fix (I see it as an upgrade) cost me a few hundred dollars with welding and bending. Way cheaper then a frame. Nothing was cracked, just bent so it’s not in danger of falling off.You will have a hard time finding someone who will straighten the bracket, they would be liable if it fails in the future. Most shops won’t clip a frame either for the same reason. The only reason clips are available is that Texas requires the title to be branded if the frame is replaced, but not if it is sectioned. That makes no sense, but that’s their law. A whole frame is the only way to fix it and it won’t cost much more, if any.
You have to be cautious heating and welding on modern frames, they are high strength steel, not mild steel as they have been the past. Heating high strength alloys and not cooling them properly can affect the strength. I would be particularly concerned on a small piece that is under a big load, especially when it holds a front wheel on. The factory won’t support those kinds of repairs on frames for liability reasons, they never perform warranty on damaged components unless the damage was caused by the failure of a warrantable part that caused the damage.Respectfully disagree, wasn’t hard for me to find someone and as long as it’s heated up, bent back and then reinforced it’s even stronger then original. The only way the factory would warranty them though is by replacing the frame. They don’t do frame repairs at dealerships. This fix (I see it as an upgrade) cost me a few hundred dollars with welding and bending. Way cheaper then a frame. Nothing was cracked, just bent so it’s not in danger of falling off.
Not really likely, Chrysler got hammered several years ago for not properly disclosing damage on new cars. They would scrap the car and build another one. They build 50 Broncos an hour, it’s cheaper to build one than face the consequences of selling a damaged car.I am willing to bet that it wouldn't be the first time Ford delivered a vehicle that had significant damage occur during shipping and neglected to disclose it.
looks good! dont forget to weld these slots also and grind flush, much of the peel strength comes from those slots.And installed. Not proud of these welds in any capacity. Doesn’t help that I don’t know shit about welding, but to compound the badness whilst laying on my side the sunlight coming through the mask acted as a mirror, so while trying to see what I’m working on all I see is my stupid confused face staring back at me
Does anyone else get super worried about welding on these new rigs and disconnect both battery terminals plus all the ECU connections then keep the ground as close as possible to the work? Might be overkill but I just don’t want to fry something
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And installed. Not proud of these welds in any capacity. Doesn’t help that I don’t know shit about welding, but to compound the badness whilst laying on my side the sunlight coming through the mask acted as a mirror, so while trying to see what I’m working on all I see is my stupid confused face staring back at me
Does anyone else get super worried about welding on these new rigs and disconnect both battery terminals plus all the ECU connections then keep the ground as close as possible to the work? Might be overkill but I just don’t want to fry something
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Awe man. I filled those in on the first one then needed to grind them down so as not interfere with the alignment bolts. Started thinking I was over complicating things by filling those in and didn’t do the rest.looks good! dont forget to weld these slots also and grind flush, much of the peel strength comes from those slots.
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