Transmission fluid change questions

[Boostedblues]

I'm with you. I do look at transmission fluid once in a while for discoloration or smell, but pretty much let things ride. I'm old, have had a lot of vehicles and have not had a failure of a lubricated component on any that I purchased with less than 100K on them already. Like you say, to each their own. I kinda feel the same about oil analysis, suppose you see a little chromium in the oil at 50K, you going to tear the engine down, or just wait until it causes an issue like anyone else?

Its going to cost the same amount of $$ to fix now than to wait till it goes. hell i may get a couple more years out of it.

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[CarbonSteel]

I kinda feel the same about oil analysis, suppose you see a little chromium in the oil at 50K, you going to tear the engine down, or just wait until it causes an issue like anyone else?

The main thing a UOA does is provide the health of the oil and to a degree the health of the component.

UOAs caught a coolant leak in my Wrangler long before traditional methods could have and likely saved the engine. Without the trending provided by UOAs, I would have never seen it.

 

[Aonarch]

I'll be that guy and say 150k interval is way too damn long.

Replace the pan with the PPE or Mishimoto one.

The big thing to do is check your dipstick level right before you drain and confirm the level at ambient temp. I forgot what number it is supposed to be, there is a thread here that shows the levels ambient and at temp.

The squeeze packs help a ton.

The mityvac posted works well. I have a manual pump version.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I'll be that guy and say 150k interval is way too damn long.

Replace the pan with the PPE or Mishimoto one.

The big thing to do is check your dipstick level right before you drain and confirm the level at ambient temp. I forgot what number it is supposed to be, there is a thread here that shows the levels ambient and at temp.

The squeeze packs help a ton.

The mityvac posted works well. I have a manual pump version.

Fully agree and would add that it should be changed early in the transmissions life to remove the break in metals.

EDIT - after watching this video (from this point), it verifies that at ambient, if you are a "box" level below the required level at full temperature then it will be at the proper level when it is at full temperature.

Ergo, since the 10R60 in the Bronco is supposed to be between 3 and 4 at full temperature, if you fill to between 4 and 5 at ambient, you should be good at full temperature. I would still check, but at least the filling will not need to happen when the catalytic converter is at branding temperature.

Initial fill from the service manual with fluid at ambient temperature:

Final fill from the service manual with fluid between 206°F and 215°F:

 

[Ducati1098]

Fully agree and would add that it should be changed early in the transmissions life to remove the break in metals.

I searched for that post (I definitely remember seeing it), but could not find it. I have a bad memory, but I seem to recall that if the transmission is filled to between 4 and 5 initially, that it will be at the proper level when at temperature (@Ducati1098 - do you know?).

Initial fill from the service manual with fluid at ambient temperature:

Final fill from the service manual with fluid between 206°F and 215°F:

It needs to be between 3-4 at operating temp (206ºF - 215ºF)
Ford doesn't give a cold fill level, but the fluid level will rise quite a bit from cold to operating temperature. So during first start up, I try and make sure that there is barely any fluid touching the dipstick after starting it, then let it warm up completely and adjust from there.

EDIT: I guess they technically do give an initial fill level when cold, I never noticed that before. But like I said, I always make sure it's just barely touching the dipstick and then it is okay to be driven/warmed up to operating temp to make your final adjustment to 3-4

 

[CarbonSteel]

It needs to be between 3-4 at operating temp (206ºF - 215ºF)
Ford doesn't give a cold fill level, but the fluid level will rise quite a bit from cold to operating temperature. So during first start up, I try and make sure that there is barely any fluid touching the dipstick after starting it, then let it warm up completely and adjust from there.

EDIT: I guess they technically do give an initial fill level when cold, I never noticed that before. But like I said, I always make sure it's just barely touching the dipstick and then it is okay to be driven/warmed up to operating temp to make your final adjustment to 3-4

I edited my OP. If you fill between 4 and 5 at ambient, then it should be between 3 and 4 at full temperature. I will still check it to be sure.

One thing - I read the dipstick has to be torqued to 35ft-lbs in the service manual. That seems to be A LOT for an aluminum threaded nut. Is that what you do?

 

[Ducati1098]

I edited my OP. If you fill between 4 and 5 at ambient, then it should be between 3 and 4 at full temperature. I will still check it to be sure.

One thing - I read the dipstick has to be torqued to 35ft-lbs in the service manual. That seems to be A LOT for an aluminum threaded nut. Is that what you do?

I think it'll be well over 3-4 If you fill it to 4-5 at ambient temperature (~70 degrees or so) It usually goes up quite a bit from 70-200 degrees. But give it a shot and see how close it is.
It's hard for me to remember where to fill it cold because some 10R60/10R80's have a different fill level.

As far as the dipstick plug, I personally just snug it with a wrench and I've never had any issues.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I think it'll be well over 3-4 If you fill it to 4-5 at ambient temperature (~70 degrees or so) It usually goes up quite a bit from 70-200 degrees. But give it a shot and see how close it is.
It's hard for me to remember where to fill it cold because some 10R60/10R80's have a different fill level.

As far as the dipstick plug, I personally just snug it with a wrench and I've never had any issues.

I will be installing a deep PPE pan when I change mine so I will have to be conservative until I know, but plan to take time to document and share to make it easier for the next gal/guy.

I hear you on the dipstick and that was my plan as well. 35 ft-lbs sounds like too much given the axle cover bolts are about 25 ft-lbs and they are steel M8's.

 

[Razorback]

I will be installing a deep PPE pan when I change mine so I will have to be conservative until I know, but plan to take time to document and share to make it easier for the next gal/guy.

I hear you on the dipstick and that was my plan as well. 35 ft-lbs sounds like too much given the axle cover bolts are about 25 ft-lbs and they are steel M8's.

Let us know once done if the deep dish would interfere with skid plates. It looks like there would be room above the frame but just not sure.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Let us know once done if the deep dish would interfere with skid plates. It looks like there would be room above the frame but just not sure.

I will be doing within the next two weeks. There should be plenty of clearance:

Here is a Mishimoto, I reviewed, the PPE is the same design but perhaps a 1/4" less shallow. The red line approximates the OEM pan.

Front pan area with RCI skids:

Rear pan area with RCI skids:

 

[Razorback]

I will be doing within the next two weeks. There should be plenty of clearance:

Here is a Mishimoto, I reviewed, the PPE is the same design but perhaps a 1/4" less shallow. The red line approximates the OEM pan.

Front pan area with RCI skids:

Rear pan area with RCI skids:

Thanks. Looks like the electronic sway bar disconnect on the BL will clear as well...

 

[pakrat]

We're talking more specifically about the transmission fluid, not transfer case. It's a bit more involved since you have to drop the pan

If you have a mighty vac you can suck pretty much all of the fluid out of the pan from the fill location without having to drop the pan. In fact I suggest you do that even if you are dropping the pan to change the filter. It is a much cleaner experience doing that way. If you are dropping the pan replace the filter (it is cheap), and I can tell you at 30K miles when I did it the filter and magnet in the pan had some very fine pasty metal build up. Then you get all of the break-in junk out. It is a no brainer with these modern 10 spd. transmissions. So many places to accumulate debris. I can see waiting until 50K miles but 150K is an insane number. Your fluid will be black and the damage done.

The hardest part about changing the fluid is filling it to the proper level. You have to get it to the proper temp and check it while the engine is running. The exhaust is right there so you will probably burn yourself a little.

Here is what 30K mile trans fluid looks like compared to new.

 

[popo_patty]

Not exactly a “how to” video. But we busted our transmission pan on the trail and do a trail replacement at the 8:20 mark in the video. I go over the Ford instructions, tools needed and the pump we used. Wasn’t overly difficult, even with limited resources and in the snow.
I also have a video on the gear oil and stuff as well but Carbon Steel deserves all the credit for his awesome thread on that one.
I too have plans to swap out my pan for a PPE or Mishimoto soon and I’ll do a video on that as well. Never hurts to have multiple perspectives.

 

[AZ_Liberty]

Manual says something like 150k or 200k?

I figure I'll have my mechanic change the fluid when the clutch wears out, since the transmission will be out anyway.

 

[RedSoloCup]

If you have a mighty vac you can suck pretty much all of the fluid out of the pan from the fill location without having to drop the pan. In fact I suggest you do that even if you are dropping the pan to change the filter. It is a much cleaner experience doing that way. If you are dropping the pan replace the filter (it is cheap), and I can tell you at 30K miles when I did it the filter and magnet in the pan had some very fine pasty metal build up. Then you get all of the break-in junk out. It is a no brainer with these modern 10 spd. transmissions. So many places to accumulate debris. I can see waiting until 50K miles but 150K is an insane number. Your fluid will be black and the damage done.

The hardest part about changing the fluid is filling it to the proper level. You have to get it to the proper temp and check it while the engine is running. The exhaust is right there so you will probably burn yourself a little.

Here is what 30K mile trans fluid looks like compared to new.

did you just stick the hose end in to suck out the fluid or you have a screw in fitting? Thanks

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