7mt Transmission Fluid Service @ 1 year/7500mi -- fluid results

[0ne]

Ecoboost engines are known for fuel contamination in the oil, especially if idled for extended periods. I can attest to this as I was insistent on completely warming up my 2.7 before every drive during the “break in” period and throughout the initial factory oil fill lifetime. The oil I drained out at 4100 miles and 1% oil life was average darkness and viscosity but wreaked of gasoline.

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[timhood]

have you ever had an analysis done by someone like blackstone? i have not for my bronco, but on a turbo'd 5.7 with amsoil sig series i would go 10k and romp the piss outta it. they said i could safely take it to 12k, but never did. 3k on dino oil is a marketing ploy

What's funny is it isn't really even a marketing ploy anymore. Not by the oil manufacturers, anyway. Just the mechanics who change your oil and then put that sticker in the upper-left corner of your window telling you to come back in 3 months or 3,000 miles.

The 3K thing is perpetuated mostly by people who are old enough to remember when oils and engines were so bad that 3K was necessary. Or maybe their dads are old enough and burned it into their heads that "this fact shall never change!"

I do find it odd that literally everything else in the world has vastly improved in the past 50 years, but engines and oil are still just as bad as they ever were.

Before getting on car forums, I used to think that oil wars only happened on Harley forums.

 

[Sitruc_btb]

The dual injection in the 2.7 is actually a good thing. You get the best of direct injection without worrying about buildup on the valves.

It is, as we deal with DI problems and carbon buildup on several of the models we work on. Id like to see how the fuel system is laid out, or maybe it can be though of as a parallel circuit. 12v fuel pump feeds port injectors, and on a separate line, feeds the high pressure pump for the DI injectors. I'd like to see the piping for that setup.

 

[Fishwrinkle]

Before getting on car forums, I used to think that oil wars only happened on Harley forums.

any forum that talks ICE will have oil wars.

 

[Bronc_Bronc]

So, I hear you on the engine being dirty, turbos maybe? But for all of you who change oil at 3000 or so, are you certain such is necessary in a modern engine? Also, what type of oil are you using?

With conventional; of course, but a blend? And for those of us who are full synthetic, changing that soon is a total waste of money and I‘ll stand by that.

For full synthetic, 5-7000 is pretty safe for changing oil and filter.

A bigger concern to me would be air filter. I changed my stock with the K&N and will clean and recharge every 10K.

Understand there are a ton of opinions on these topics but don’t want the average reader here to feel they need to go as far as others.

What's you're reason for the K&N air filter?

 

[Canadian5.0]

Off road vehicle potential exposure to dusty conditions , hhhhmmmm, no power gain , doesn’t filter as good as paper , requires maintenance, motorcraft
Paper filter staying in my bronco along with stock , sealed factory cold air intake , awesome saved myself several hundred for fuel use and my engine will thank me for it

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

What's you're reason for the K&N air filter?

for off-roading purposes, I feel an oiled filter is better at handling moisture, while the paper is more for dust.

Southeastern wheeling can at times be wet, so the slightly improved airflow and better protection were my motivators since the filter doesn’t wear out, only needs to be maintained.

I’ll clean and re-oil the filter every 10K miles rather than replace the paper one at or near the recommended 35K, which is a bit long if off-roading.

Good use of $70 to me.

 

[Fishwrinkle]

You can get hydrophobic pre filters for paper. Best of both worlds. Oiled imo are problems and a hassle. Volant sells some

 

[RimrockPaul]

It's slow at work today, so I had some time to change the trans fluid in my Bronco. I'm a bit over 7500miles, just hit the one year mark. Since it's hot here in AZ, and fluids get cooked throughout the year, figured it's a good time to change it.
Fluid seems pretty dark after one year.

I used a different style bit, instead of an allen socket. Grips the allen fasteners better, with less chance of rounding out.

On the rack, checking torques and stuffs.

Fluid sample.

Cornwell Gripedge sockets. Better version of allen bits. Other brands have similar style bits.

Pretty straightforward service. Bolts/plugs were easy coming out. I noticed I had to move the lever next to the fill plug forward a bit to get the fill plug started. Transmission took pretty much all three quarts of the DCT fluid.

Is the fill hole easy to get to? Did you use an old school gear oil gadget like a big turkey baster to fill? And what about transfer case?
Thanks
Paul...

 

[Sitruc_btb]

Is the fill hole easy to get to? Did you use an old school gear oil gadget like a big turkey baster to fill? And what about transfer case?
Thanks
Paul...

Yeah both drain and fill holes are easy access. I did have to hold I think the change lever or whatever lever is right next to the fill hole, forward a bit, to get the fill plug started straight.

Yep a turkey baster, it's a Honda tool actually. Works well enough.

Not sure about the transfer case service. I haven't changed any gear oils yet. I'll wait til later down the road for those.

 

[redone17]

Is the fill hole easy to get to? Did you use an old school gear oil gadget like a big turkey baster to fill? And what about transfer case?
Thanks
Paul...

I used one of THESE. They make them for QUARTS too.

 

[BigHoof]

I used one of THESE. They make them for QUARTS too.

Used something similar. No issues with anything being in the way. Just cover your exhaust below or the fluid can get between the shield and pipe.

 

[Aonarch]

I used one of THESE. They make them for QUARTS too.

I buy one of these each time I do a transmission service. Cheap and no need to store or worry about contamination.

 

[Blue Hen]

I used the same thing Redone17 recommended when I changed trans fluid to BG Synchro II. Changed at 5,000 miles. Did have the synchro rattle. Will have to wait when the weather gets colder. Been happy so far. Dealing with a rear axle leak under warranty now. Once axle leak repaired will be changing differentials and transfer case fluids. Thinking about changing differential cover so I don't have to remove rear cover to change fluid. Spoiled owning a Toyota.

 

[JawnyBronco]

What's you're reason for the K&N air filter?

More fluid to change…

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