Tuned 2.3 EcoBoost

OX1

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I'm just learning about this as well, here is a good article I found.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a...-engines-have-both-port-and-direct-injection/
And as I suspected, it's more for emissions than anything else. The DI only 2.7 idles so smoothly (cold or hot), you literally think it's not running most times.

https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2019-01-0055/



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fossil

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The EGR System & PCV routes some of the Exhaust Gases & Oil Vapor (respectively) back to the Intake, so... the Filtered Clean Air gets dirtied by these. With no fuel being introduced in the intake stream, these contaminants can and do start to buildup on the back of the Intake Valve. Over time this buildup will restrict the airflow into the cylinder.
Thanks for answering but, this prompts more questions.

I've read that these same two devices can effect the turbo as well. Makes sense to uneducated me because venting the crank case (PCV) would be difficult on the pressurized side of the intake so would inlet before the turbo inlet. Seems like the hotter than Hades turbo blades would attract oil mist like a magnet The EGR, I don't have any idea for sure but I know some work the same way.

This said, tuners often have PCV oil separators listed as accessories to protect the turbo from carbon build up for about $150. I'd doubt these would affect the warranty.

The EGR worries me less as any particulates are most likely hard and dry being less likely to stick to the intake valve after working their way through the entire intake system.

There again tuners offer EGR delete kits that surely would irk Ford. The pro reasons most given are HP and gas mileage but I might be tempted to stealth disable the EGR just in case. Isn't all that hard for the mechanically inclined.

Again thanks for taking the time.
 

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Thanks for answering but, this prompts more questions.

I've read that these same two devices can effect the turbo as well. Makes sense to uneducated me because venting the crank case (PCV) would be difficult on the pressurized side of the intake so would inlet before the turbo inlet. Seems like the hotter than Hades turbo blades would attract oil mist like a magnet The EGR, I don't have any idea for sure but I know some work the same way.

This said, tuners often have PCV oil separators listed as accessories to protect the turbo from carbon build up for about $150. I'd doubt these would affect the warranty.

The EGR worries me less as any particulates are most likely hard and dry being less likely to stick to the intake valve after working their way through the entire intake system.

There again tuners offer EGR delete kits that surely would irk Ford. The pro reasons most given are HP and gas mileage but I might be tempted to stealth disable the EGR just in case. Isn't all that hard for the mechanically inclined.

Again thanks for taking the time.
I know on my 250 6.0 diesel that I just had the turbo out of, there was a crap load of oil in the turbo from the crankcase vent system. however the blade were clean as a whislte, if oily. there was no buildup on them. the crankcase vents into the intake maybe 12" in front of the turbo inlet, then a few feet to the intercooler, then a couple feet to the intake manifold. (no throttlebody on a diesel)
 

The Pope

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@fossil the oil on the Turbo doesn't build up like it can on the backside of the intake valve because the Intake Veins of the Turbo are not nearly as hot as the Intake Valve. The oil contacting the Turbo Veins will just coat it, sling off of it because it's not bake onto it and then continue down the intake to the cylinders, where some of it will bake on the backside of the Intake Valves.

BMW's have been dealing with this issue for years and a quick Youtube search will bring up several videos about it: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bmw+carbon+buildup

Yes, an Oil Catch Can can help, Also an EGR Block-Off/Delete would also help.

For me, I prefer the Direct & Port configuration and would most likely add a Oil Catch Can.

So, do your research and make your decision on what works for you.
 

fossil

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@fossil the oil on the Turbo doesn't build up like it can on the backside of the intake valve because the Intake Veins of the Turbo are not nearly as hot as the Intake Valve. The oil contacting the Turbo Veins will just coat it, sling off of it because it's not bake onto it and then continue down the intake to the cylinders, where some of it will bake on the backside of the Intake Valves.
BMW's have been dealing with this issue for years and a quick Youtube search will bring up several videos about it: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bmw+carbon+buildup
Yes, an Oil Catch Can can help, Also an EGR Block-Off/Delete would also help.
For me, I prefer the Direct & Port configuration and would most likely add a Oil Catch Can.
So, do your research and make your decision on what works for you.
Not much chance getting what we prefer at this point, the die is cast. So we will be left reacting to what we are given to work with. Based on this conversation it seems the PCV system is the primary point of concern and pretty simple to remedy with a catch can.

Compressor vanes should be good providing a little cool down is exercised after hard use to prevent cooking the oil in the turbo.

This all pretty much explains why synthetic oils are required in most turbo cars. Knowing all synthetics are not created equal I'll probably use Redline or Amsoil but will research this a bit. Using a second rate synthetic might explain some of the problems people are having.

Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral-based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher (some as much as 700 degrees F). This makes it well suited for vehicles that are operated in hot climates as well as heavy-duty, turbocharged or hard-use applications.
 

mattpa

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I know on my 250 6.0 diesel that I just had the turbo out of, there was a crap load of oil in the turbo from the crankcase vent system. however the blade were clean as a whislte, if oily. there was no buildup on them. the crankcase vents into the intake maybe 12" in front of the turbo inlet, then a few feet to the intercooler, then a couple feet to the intake manifold. (no throttlebody on a diesel)
@fossil the oil on the Turbo doesn't build up like it can on the backside of the intake valve because the Intake Veins of the Turbo are not nearly as hot as the Intake Valve. The oil contacting the Turbo Veins will just coat it, sling off of it because it's not bake onto it and then continue down the intake to the cylinders, where some of it will bake on the backside of the Intake Valves.

BMW's have been dealing with this issue for years and a quick Youtube search will bring up several videos about it: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bmw+carbon+buildup

Yes, an Oil Catch Can can help, Also an EGR Block-Off/Delete would also help.

For me, I prefer the Direct & Port configuration and would most likely add a Oil Catch Can.

So, do your research and make your decision on what works for you.
I don't know a ton about turbo engines, but is it possible that Ford accounts for some oil from the PCV system lubricating the intake side of the turbos? In which case you would want the oil catch after the turbo, if that's possible, right?
 

frinesi2

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There's also a possibility of a factory air oil separator. Porsche puts them in their NA motors. I wouldn't be surprised if Ford put them on turbo motors if oil becomes an issue.
 

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