Turbocharged Engine Advice - tips or tricks for maintenance?

[Incinr8]

This. Let them warm up at start up, let them cool down before shutting off the engine.

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[West1]

Turbos get incredibly hot, and oil can "coke" inside the turbo, essentially stickifying the guts. Use full synthetic oil and change it regularly (more frequently than called for). I would not recommend no more than 4-5k miles. 9k mile synthetic oils exist, but don't approach that with a turbo engine.

Also, use premium fuel. The ECU can adapt to different octane levels, but it does this by detecting knock/pre-ignition. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, alerting the knock sensor, causing the ECU to retard timing to prevent damage. This retardation in timing protects the engine, but decreases power. Pre-ignition causes increased stress on internal components, especially the connecting rods. While the ECU can accommodate for this, the added stress exists if even for just a few cycles. If you plan on keeping your Bronco for 200k miles or beyond, these stressors can significantly decrease the life of the engine.

I've been following this site for months, but this is my first post here. I've been incredibly reluctant to post anything because this community tends to absolutely destroy new posters. I have my flame suit on, and expect the worst. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, but I'm sure shitposters will disagree with whatever I say, like they've done with so many others. My goal is simply to offer advice on something I'm actually qualified to answer.

Well if you have learned anything about this (or any forum) its that you don’t need any particular knowledge about the subject matter to post. That said I really appreciate your advice I would have never known that per-ignition stressed the internal components. I had planned on using premium fuel and now I the the reason behind the recommendation. Thanks.

 

[ollie]

As others have stated, warm up/cool down and frequent oil changes. I'm a every 3,000 mile oil changer using a good synthetic. I would recommend at least that frequent for a turbo motor. These small engines need fresh oil for longevity.

 

[2050Broncoorsomething]

So I have never owned a vehicle with a turbocharged engine, only vehicles with naturally aspirated engines. I would like to know any tips or tricks for maintenance, « do’s or don’t’s », or anything I should look out for or be aware of when the Bronco arrives?

Currently own a 2.3 eco boost Ranger. And like everyone is saying let it warm up before you get into the boost. And when it does let the turbo loose, the fastest way to have turbo issues is to drive more "eco". Premium is great if you want to have more power, non ethanol gas is good as well. And Ford recommends Synthetic Blend oil. The only oil I use is Motorcraft Full Synthetic with a Motorcraft filter.

 

[West1]

@West1: It would have been helpful if you posted which of the engines you're going with as they have different needs for other things.


Actually, and i'm usually one of the more obnoxious people on here, your post is great!

The only thing I'd add is to augment your general statement about oil life of turbocharged applications with some further information since we, as a community, don't know the wear characteristics for this specific engine (i'm guessing similiar to Ranger, but there are engine changes on the 2.3)

Points to add:

• You don't know how your oil and engine is wearing unless you have a controlled environment ANDtesting.
  • This will mean planning on your first 3 oil changes using the same oil brand/line/weight plus the same filter (volume discount, stock up!)
  • There's no point in testing the oil that was in the engine upon delivery. Run that for 500 miles and do an oil change.
  • Excluding your factory oil, you're going to need to send each of those thee oil samples to Blackstone labs for independent testing as you "dial in" your oil change interval.
    • https://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests/standard-analysis/
      • Anecdotally speaking, it took 5 oil changes on my DD/short-track Evo9 to determine I could run my specific oil for approximately 8,000 miles (counting each track day as ~500 miles of those 8K) before it would chemically start to break down in wear characteristics.
• And on the topic of oil, @KABQ is absolutely right, plan on a full synthetic motor oil. What i'll add is that zinc is a very important part of any oil used in turbocharged applications. High-zinc content oil is certainly harder to find and generally a small price premium. You'll want to be targeting specifically high-zinc oils here.
  • Some people believe that turbocharged cars should follow the wisdom of flat-tappet rollers and push-rods, in that the shaft of the turbo is an "extreme wear" component and needs to be the focal point of your oil decision making.
    • Some examples of oil suitable for that, if you follow that logic:
      • https://www.valvoline.com/our-produ...MI09zhyd228gIVkR-tBh11lABOEAAYASAAEgK_cPD_BwE
      • https://www.amsoil.com/p/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-zrt/
      • Personally I run this in our 2019 Ranger but we're still dialing in the change interval, it won't be 12K miles!
        • https://www.amsoil.com/p/xl-0w-20-synthetic-motor-oil-xlz/?code=XLZQT-EA

That's all I have to add that's different from what most posted.

FYI: I'm going with the 2.3 in Bronco and will have an oil catch can deliverer once I get my VIN, it will be installed before the engine hits 200 miles.

Yes, I did not know enough about the turbos to know there would be any difference. I have an extremely vanilla build - Base soft top, 2.3l, no Sas but the stock steelies. My build is vanilla because like Ford I too have some “constraints” but my constraints are related to the green parts with dead presidents on them.

 

[West1]

@West1: It would have been helpful if you posted which of the engines you're going with as they have different needs for other things.


Actually, and i'm usually one of the more obnoxious people on here, your post is great!

The only thing I'd add is to augment your general statement about oil life of turbocharged applications with some further information since we, as a community, don't know the wear characteristics for this specific engine (i'm guessing similiar to Ranger, but there are engine changes on the 2.3)

Points to add:

• You don't know how your oil and engine is wearing unless you have a controlled environment ANDtesting.
  • This will mean planning on your first 3 oil changes using the same oil brand/line/weight plus the same filter (volume discount, stock up!)
  • There's no point in testing the oil that was in the engine upon delivery. Run that for 500 miles and do an oil change.
  • Excluding your factory oil, you're going to need to send each of those thee oil samples to Blackstone labs for independent testing as you "dial in" your oil change interval.
    • https://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests/standard-analysis/
      • Anecdotally speaking, it took 5 oil changes on my DD/short-track Evo9 to determine I could run my specific oil for approximately 8,000 miles (counting each track day as ~500 miles of those 8K) before it would chemically start to break down in wear characteristics.
• And on the topic of oil, @KABQ is absolutely right, plan on a full synthetic motor oil. What i'll add is that zinc is a very important part of any oil used in turbocharged applications. High-zinc content oil is certainly harder to find and generally a small price premium. You'll want to be targeting specifically high-zinc oils here.
  • Some people believe that turbocharged cars should follow the wisdom of flat-tappet rollers and push-rods, in that the shaft of the turbo is an "extreme wear" component and needs to be the focal point of your oil decision making.
    • Some examples of oil suitable for that, if you follow that logic:
      • https://www.valvoline.com/our-produ...MI09zhyd228gIVkR-tBh11lABOEAAYASAAEgK_cPD_BwE
      • https://www.amsoil.com/p/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-zrt/
      • Personally I run this in our 2019 Ranger but we're still dialing in the change interval, it won't be 12K miles!
        • https://www.amsoil.com/p/xl-0w-20-synthetic-motor-oil-xlz/?code=XLZQT-EA

That's all I have to add that's different from what most posted.

FYI: I'm going with the 2.3 in Bronco and will have an oil catch can deliverer once I get my VIN, it will be installed before the engine hits 200 miles.

One further question do you anticipate any push back on any warranty claims with the oil catcher installed? I guess a more succinct question is does the installation of an oil catcher void the warranty?

 

[redone17]

@Rick Astley - only 500 miles with the factory oil?! Why? Are you planning on the Panda Motorworks Catch Can?

How does one let the turbos “cool down”? Low RPMs for the last several miles? I’m generally gonna get out of the truck as soon as I park.

 

[RednWhite89]

Turbos get incredibly hot, and oil can "coke" inside the turbo, essentially stickifying the guts. Use full synthetic oil and change it regularly (more frequently than called for). I would not recommend no more than 4-5k miles. 9k mile synthetic oils exist, but don't approach that with a turbo engine.

Also, use premium fuel. The ECU can adapt to different octane levels, but it does this by detecting knock/pre-ignition. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, alerting the knock sensor, causing the ECU to retard timing to prevent damage. This retardation in timing protects the engine, but decreases power. Pre-ignition causes increased stress on internal components, especially the connecting rods. While the ECU can accommodate for this, the added stress exists if even for just a few cycles. If you plan on keeping your Bronco for 200k miles or beyond, these stressors can significantly decrease the life of the engine.

I've been following this site for months, but this is my first post here. I've been incredibly reluctant to post anything because this community tends to absolutely destroy new posters. I have my flame suit on, and expect the worst. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, but I'm sure shitposters will disagree with whatever I say, like they've done with so many others. My goal is simply to offer advice on something I'm actually qualified to answer.

Not only a great post, but you got @Rick Astley to reply with a non-shitpost that piggybacked additional pointers. You're going places!

 

[PowerTools]

I haven't read the Bronco owner's manual, but the manual for my MKZ with 2.0L EcoBoost says that it accepts 87 octane but to use 93 octane for maximum performance.

Edit: It doesn't exactly say that, but I was close.

This doesn't disagree with my statement. If the manual says use 93, then I will. If it doesn't, then not me. You're quoting an owners manual. If I had a Lincoln MKZ with a 2.0, then I'd always put in 93 and would probably even wash the car for extra performance.
Anyone have a copy of the Bronco manual handy?

 

[Rick Astley]

One further question do you anticipate any push back on any warranty claims with the oil catcher installed? I guess a more succinct question is does the installation of an oil catcher void the warranty?

Warranty application should have zero impact from a oil catch can. They will have to prove that the catch can is the cause of the failure, and they prove that the oil catch can they sell in their racing catalog would also cause the same failure.....

@Rick Astley - only 500 miles with the factory oil?! Why? Are you planning on the Panda Motorworks Catch Can?

How does one let the turbos “cool down”? Low RPMs for the last several miles? I’m generally gonna get out of the truck as soon as I park.

I should admit that i'm a bit more old school and have built my own engines after they get back from machine shops. Modern cars are probably much better, however, there WILL be wear on the cylinders and rings as they mate. I'd rather get that out sooner than later. Some buddies go 1,000 miles with their engine builds or 6 months as often times the classics don't get a lot of miles on them.

Right now i'm not sure what direction i'll go with the catch can. Panda has a nice setup with the Radium catch can but I can't find any more info on their filtering than the aluminum plate and mysterious top filter of unknown material. Mishimoto stepped up big time with the 2.3 Ranger catch can so Bronco should be a very quick bracket change to work. but I'm not 100% sold on sintered brass filters though (conflicting research on it, not touched on below)

I'm preferable to the Saikou Michi split DC3 that I had built for my Evo, but he's not all that interested in a Ford or Bronco application right now... I'll keep bugging him!

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineeri...utm_source=ranger5g&utm_medium=forum#continue

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineering/2016/01/blow-by-101-what-is-blow-by/

Not only a great post, but you got @Rick Astley to reply with a non-shitpost that piggybacked additional pointers. You're going places!

What can I say, it happens (quite a bit through PM, actually).

 

[KABQ]

Well if you have learned anything about this (or any forum) its that you don’t need any particular knowledge about the subject matter to post. That said I really appreciate your advice I would have never known that per-ignition stressed the internal components. I had planned on using premium fuel and now I the the reason behind the recommendation. Thanks.

Glad I could help, and I'm impressed with the positive responses I've received. Thanks, B6G!

I'm now training new mechanics as they come in, and ultimately I'd love to teach. "Do this because I say so" doesn't stick with me. However, if I understand how a system works and the reasons behind the "do this," everything falls into place - and I might even remember it!

 

[rdass623]

So I have never owned a vehicle with a turbocharged engine, only vehicles with naturally aspirated engines. I would like to know any tips or tricks for maintenance, « do’s or don’t’s », or anything I should look out for or be aware of when the Bronco arrives?

read the owner's manual. there is nothing special. keep the oil clean and it is just the same as any other engine.

 

[KABQ]

Warranty application should have zero impact from a oil catch can. They will have to prove that the catch can is the cause of the failure, and they prove that the oil catch can they sell in their racing catalog would also cause the same failure.....



I should admit that i'm a bit more old school and have built my own engines after they get back from machine shops. Modern cars are probably much better, however, there WILL be wear on the cylinders and rings as they mate. I'd rather get that out sooner than later. Some buddies go 1,000 miles with their engine builds or 6 months as often times the classics don't get a lot of miles on them.

Right now i'm not sure what direction i'll go with the catch can. Panda has a nice setup with the Radium catch can but I can't find any more info on their filtering than the aluminum plate and mysterious top filter of unknown material. Mishimoto stepped up big time with the 2.3 Ranger catch can so Bronco should be a very quick bracket change to work. but I'm not 100% sold on sintered brass filters though (conflicting research on it, not touched on below)

I'm preferable to the Saikou Michi split DC3 that I had built for my Evo, but he's not all that interested in a Ford or Bronco application right now... I'll keep bugging him!

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineeri...utm_source=ranger5g&utm_medium=forum#continue

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineering/2016/01/blow-by-101-what-is-blow-by/


What can I say, it happens (quite a bit through PM, actually).

I couldn't agree more about a quick initial oil change. Bedding the rings will reflect the most rapid and dramatic wear an engine will see, and you don't want those bits floating about in your oil. The filter will do its job, but if it clogs there is no indication of bypass. Get that crap out of there! Definitely don't exceed 1k miles on factory oil/filter.

 

[Itchysquatch]

Turbos get incredibly hot, and oil can "coke" inside the turbo, essentially stickifying the guts. Use full synthetic oil and change it regularly (more frequently than called for). I would not recommend no more than 4-5k miles. 9k mile synthetic oils exist, but don't approach that with a turbo engine.

Also, use premium fuel. The ECU can adapt to different octane levels, but it does this by detecting knock/pre-ignition. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, alerting the knock sensor, causing the ECU to retard timing to prevent damage. This retardation in timing protects the engine, but decreases power. Pre-ignition causes increased stress on internal components, especially the connecting rods. While the ECU can accommodate for this, the added stress exists if even for just a few cycles. If you plan on keeping your Bronco for 200k miles or beyond, these stressors can significantly decrease the life of the engine.

I've been following this site for months, but this is my first post here. I've been incredibly reluctant to post anything because this community tends to absolutely destroy new posters. I have my flame suit on, and expect the worst. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, but I'm sure shitposters will disagree with whatever I say, like they've done with so many others. My goal is simply to offer advice on something I'm actually qualified to answer.

Solid reply with valuable information. Thanks for taking the risk to reply to the thread. The info is appreciated.

 

[bytheway]

Use a top grade synthetic oil and filter. Change it at no more than 5K miles. Like any car don't drive it hard until warmed up.

They also like premium gas...

I’m with this guy. Synthetic oil is so affordable now there’s no reason not to use it. Also, ignore the oil life monitor. While you can stretch beyond 5k on synthetic it’s cheap insurance towards an expensive component of your new vehicle. Stick with an OEM motorcraft filter or a Wix/Napa Gold.

if you have a Costco nearby their fuel is rated top Tier and usually cheaper than anywhere else. Look up top tier fuel stations in your area here: https://www.toptiergas.com/
Preferably pick a high volume station that turns their fuel over quickly so you know it’s fresh as well.

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