- First Name
- Cal
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2021
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- 3
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- 826
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- 2,332
- Location
- Columbus, Ohio
- Vehicle(s)
- 2023 Maverick Tremor, 2010 Toyota Tacoma
- Your Bronco Model
- Big Bend
Bro Flaps for the win. $80 shipped.
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Mine shipped today & I have 9ā wide +01mm offset wheels. Sounds like I might be sending mine right back.Apparently I didn't take a pic before I took them off, but I put my 315/70 Patagonias on today and the front flaps DO NOT CLEAR. 8.5 wide 0 offset wheels.
So stock tire size with an offset change won't clear these flaps.
I'll be modifying them to work, but they really need to redesign the front flaps.
Yup if you don't want to modify anything should probably send them back.Mine shipped today & I have 9ā wide +01mm offset wheels. Sounds like I might be sending mine right back.
Where are you rubbing? On the bracket or the flap??Apparently I didn't take a pic before I took them off, but I put my 315/70 Patagonias on today and the front flaps DO NOT CLEAR. 8.5 wide 0 offset wheels.
So stock tire size with an offset change won't clear these flaps.
I'll be modifying them to work, but they really need to redesign the front flaps.
Catching the thumb screws and slight rubbing on the flap. On flat concrete, would only get worse with flex. I'll get a pic for reference this evening. Been needing to pull and swap to the new gold clips anyway.Where are you rubbing? On the bracket or the flap??
Clear zone must be somewhere between +12 offset and 0 as I'm at +12 on 18x9 and 295/70's and clear fine. Good luck.
It does look like you'll have plenty of room now even with flexing. You'd think Ford could've made that plastic and rock rail flush with the body panel from the get go...Took some effort but we're making progress here. Haven't done the drivers side yet but after several beers I've got the passenger side on and clearing with the thumb screws.
I thought at first I'd get away with just swapping the thumb screws out for button head screws but that was a no go.
So I removed the plastic block behind the fender liner like a another member here had mentioned doing. As far as I can figure out this things only purpose is to provide a place for a couple of the liners push pins to grab hold.
This makes lots of room for adjustment of the RB mounting bracket, but the problem then is the flaps run into the rock rails. So...out comes the Dremel.
I'd suggest moving your cars outside before firing up the dremel, because at some point your little cutting wheel will shatter, shoot across the garage and play a round of pinball between the wall and your GT350 (like I said, *several* beers were involved with this job)
Now everything seems to fit. Still on level ground but I'll get it flexed out some this weekend and see what things look like.
More work than it's really worth and I'd tell anyone with these on order and plans to go to more aggressive wheels cancel their order.
Yea, you'd think.It does look like you'll have plenty of room now even with flexing. You'd think Ford could've made that plastic and rock rail flush with the body panel from the get go...
Looks nice, much cleaner fit, and how you'd expect them to look from the get-go, but that looks like a fair amount of custom work to get something pricey to fit cleanly. Really glad I sent mine back.Took some effort but we're making progress here. Haven't done the drivers side yet but after several beers I've got the passenger side on and clearing with the thumb screws.
I thought at first I'd get away with just swapping the thumb screws out for button head screws but that was a no go.
So I removed the plastic block behind the fender liner like a another member here had mentioned doing. As far as I can figure out this things only purpose is to provide a place for a couple of the liners push pins to grab hold.
This makes lots of room for adjustment of the RB mounting bracket, but the problem then is the flaps run into the rock rails. So...out comes the Dremel.
I'd suggest moving your cars outside before firing up the dremel, because at some point your little cutting wheel will shatter, shoot across the garage and play a round of pinball between the wall and your GT350 (like I said, *several* beers were involved with this job)
Now everything seems to fit. Still on level ground but I'll get it flexed out some this weekend and see what things look like.
More work than it's really worth and I'd tell anyone with these on order and plans to go to more aggressive wheels cancel their order.
based on your post, I just received mine and have already put in the request to send back.Yup if you don't want to modify anything should probably send them back.
Sucks cuz I've been recommending Rokblokz products for years but this one is a miss.
looks like you have diff set of wheels/tires in the background to be installed? what size tires are you going with and did the RB give you problems w them?I installed my standard Rokblokz with crash bar on my stock badlands last night. I assembled everything on the kitchen table and then went out in the garage for bracket installation. I didnāt turn my wheels or remove any tires, I was able to install where it sat. The fronts went on just fine, The flaps donāt quite mount at a parallel/perpendicular angle to the rest of the truck, the inner edge angles back a bit. I tried adjusting the brackets, but they were already maxed out for angle. I donāt have any movement in mine like the OP here. The passenger side flap sticks out about 1/4ā farther than the drivers side flap, which I prefer for additional coverage, I couldnāt adjust the drivers side out at all. When I swap to my +35mm wheels I might need that little bit more coverage. The rears bolted on just fine and are very solid. I slid them out as far as they would go and itās just right. One of the body mount bolts requires a small socket with a narrow universal adapter to get back on without scratching the bracket. On the angle of the rear flaps, Rokblokz could reduce one of the angles on the brackets and the flaps would sit closer to vertical. I thought about straightening mine with a vise, but I didnāt want to damage the powder coating. Overall I would give these a 4 out of 5 star rating, with the fronts getting 3/5 and the rears getting 4.5/5. The fronts could stand to feel a little more solid, be square to the truck, and have some adjustability. The rears could have the bracket angle reduced so that the flaps donāt kick back as much. I would also use all stainless hardware for assembly (not sure if the current hardware will rust) and throw in the 8 screws and washers for those looking to ditch the quick release knobs.
The mud flaps are the least of your worries.Clearance with bare bracket:
Clearance with flap and thumb screws. This is flat concrete and you can see the lug squished against the thumb screw.
Not much clearance to be gained even if I modify the flap because of the rock rails.
I'll see what I can do about it but so far these are a no go with 0 offset wheels and a more aggressive but stock size tire.