Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[TP1]

Installed the Kicker key and PnP harness today. Am getting sound once plugging it in, but no matter how loud I turn up the volume, I'm not getting any limiter LED lights showing up. Also tried to run the programming (at 22 volume), at completion of the test I get the sad beeps followed by four tones. I am running the pink noise sound directly off of USB.

Any ideas or help at all please?



EDIT: apparently the volume wasn't nearly high enough even at 22. I turned it up to 27 to program it and got the happy beeps.

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[boomboomthump]

Stock 6.5s are better with an amp, but not good. 65hz is hardly low in modern music. Anything above that point is directional...I'm not a bass head but I cannot stand music without full frequency presentation... subwoofer gets you close.


Def get a sub if you want anything to sound correct....have the kicker hs10 and it is awesome for what it is.

Yes. The thing to keep in mind here is that typically folks set subwoofer crossovers at 60Hz. So 60Hz and below gets you that bigger BOOM and anything above 60Hz is handled by other speakers in the soundstage.

So that in mind, 6.5" speakers that have a range starting at 65Hz are designed for use WITH subwoofers. This is the problem many folks are running into when they replace the factory kick panel speakers with "good" 6.5" woofers. They are losing low end range because they're designed to be used in conjunction with a subwoofer.

If you don't want to run a subwoofer, you need 6.5" speakers that have a lower range (like the factory speaker) and those typically exist at the lower end of the price scale. There are 6.5" woofers that have a range starting at 35Hz. For example the Polk DB+ 6502 components start at 35Hz (got these for the kick panels) and the Polk DB+ 652 2-way coaxials start at 40Hz (I got those 6.5's for the rear speakers to use in the SSV speaker pods I got).

If you go buy some fancy 6.5" speakers that are better than the run of the mill stuff, you'll see they typically do not service any of the range that is subwoofer territory.

 

[dangerfoot]

Yes. The thing to keep in mind here is that typically folks set subwoofer crossovers at 60Hz. So 60Hz and below gets you that bigger BOOM and anything above 60Hz is handled by other speakers in the soundstage.

So that in mind, 6.5" speakers that have a range starting at 65Hz are designed for use WITH subwoofers. This is the problem many folks are running into when they replace the factory kick panel speakers with "good" 6.5" woofers. They are losing low end range because they're designed to be used in conjunction with a subwoofer.

If you don't want to run a subwoofer, you need 6.5" speakers that have a lower range (like the factory speaker) and those typically exist at the lower end of the price scale. There are 6.5" woofers that have a range starting at 35Hz. For example the Polk DB+ 6502 components start at 35Hz (got these for the kick panels) and the Polk DB+ 652 2-way coaxials start at 40Hz (I got those 6.5's for the rear speakers to use in the SSV speaker pods I got).



If you go buy some fancy 6.5" speakers that are better than the run of the mill stuff, you'll see they typically do not service any of the range that is subwoofer territory.

While you obviously have done your homework, we both know that claimed low end is a roll off and most mfgs dont publish the db drop at the low end...and this is tested in an optimized environment, which every car is not.
I have 6.5s rated to 40hz and guarantee you the db drop at even 50hz is material.

And no, the stock speakers weren't hitting to 40hz either, , let alone 30.

And no, I don't want any BOOM...esp at 60hz. I want right, controlled, balanced musical bass. I want seamless transition between my components.

The reason 60hz is most often the point designed around is bc that is about the frequency at which the sound is no longer directional.

All good info, I hope that clears up confusion around building a system.

 

[boomboomthump]

We’re about to get into semantics but I will state this factually…

I have used a 40, 50, 60, 80, 100, 150, 200Hz test file played through the stock stereo and speakers.

With the fader set all the way forward (front channel only) all of those test files played through the stock kick panel speakers. 40Hz included. You can test this yourself. The dash speakers only produced the 200Hz tone.

With the fader set to the rear speakers only, again, only the 200Hz tone produced any sound.

Are those 40Hz-60Hz tones going to be great through the 6.5” kick panel speakers? No. But something is better than nothing if you don’t have a subwoofer.

Does this explain the “loss of bass” people report when replacing their stock kick panel speakers with “higher end” speakers? Yes, if they only have a frequency response range starting at 65Hz. They do not respond below that range.

 

[dangerfoot]

Did you measure db drop?

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

FWIW, I just got around to installing my 200.4 Kicker amp on my non-B&O base system. I’m using 4” Focal ASE speakers in rear and the Focal ASE 165 components up front with speaker baffles on the 6.5’s. Set bass filter to 80Hz and have gains all the way down and sound is clear with volume set at max 30 though the amp kicks out if I keep it at that volume for a minute. I’ll be leaving the gains where they are set. Overall I’m impressed with the sound processing the amp did. Much better sound imaging than stock. Installing 500.1 tomorrow and the SRQ box with 8” square DVC Kicker sub running at 2 ohms in the B&O sub location.

 

[Mc1guil]

May have missed it in the vast amount of info provided but if someone can give me direction I would appreciate it.

Have the PNP harness for the key and hideaway with the optional power from the amp. Blue wire on the amp wiring and blue wire on the hideaway….do i just cap these or do I still need to connect to something else?

Sorry if I overlooked this question.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

May have missed it in the vast amount of info provided but if someone can give me direction I would appreciate it.

Have the PNP harness for the key and hideaway with the optional power from the amp. Blue wire on the amp wiring and blue wire on the hideaway….do i just cap these or do I still need to connect to something else?

Sorry if I overlooked this question.

I didn’t need the blue wire for my Kicker Key 200.4 or 500.1. I’m not sure about the hideaway.

 

[carljackson04]

FWIW, I just got around to installing my 200.4 Kicker amp on my non-B&O base system. I’m using 4” Focal ASE speakers in rear and the Focal ASE 165 components up front with speaker baffles on the 6.5’s. Set bass filter to 80Hz and have gains all the way down and sound is clear with volume set at max 30 though the amp kicks out if I keep it at that volume for a minute. I’ll be leaving the gains where they are set. Overall I’m impressed with the sound processing the amp did. Much better sound imaging than stock. Installing 500.1 tomorrow and the SRQ box with 8” square DVC Kicker sub running at 2 ohms in the B&O sub location.

I am curious to see how you like the SRQ box and what it sounds like? I have all the wiring harnesses, kicker key 500 amp, and mountains to metal mounting plate. Just trying to decide on a box. The SRQ seems to be the best option available. I am not willing to compromise any space and would like it to still look oem.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

I am curious to see how you like the SRQ box and what it sounds like? I have all the wiring harnesses, kicker key 500 amp, and mountains to metal mounting plate. Just trying to decide on a box. The SRQ seems to be the best option available. I am not willing to compromise any space and would like it to still look oem.

I have the box mounted and should have the sub installed in it this weekend (first sub was a dud) and will report back. They give you the bolt, washers and nuts to fasten it to the truck. I had to run the screw through the front of the box, put a washer then nut on at the backside of the box and tighten (they countersunk the back of the box where the bolt passes through so it sits flat and tight against the wall) then place the bolt through the hole in the truck and reach back around with my left arm with the second washer and nut to tighten with a socket wrench with a short extension to fasten it. Even though it’s only one bolt, it isn’t going anywhere. Otherwise the sub can’t seat into the opening. The bolt head is super close to the subwoofer magnet. I had to detach the park assist module to the left of the box to get my arm back there, which wasn’t a big deal.
I was able to mount the 500.1 on the Mountains 2 Metal plate with a few wire ties after notching the plastic flange on one end of the amp so it would sit flat on the plate. Plenty of room above the glove box for it.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

Thanks @Bearcat1 - I have the kit now and will be installing soon - have the same thing. Clips 17ish, which is just a hair quieter than I'd like with the top off at speed.

My 200.4 was cutting out due to the limiter on the amp at 20-23 on the volume dial.

Thanks @Bearcat1 - I have the kit now and will be installing soon - have the same thing. Clips 17ish, which is just a hair quieter than I'd like with the top off at speed.

My 200.4 was cutting out around 20-23 on the volume dial. I thought I had the radio detect button pressed in because it was flush to the amp face. Turns out it wasn’t and sits below the surface when pressed in. My amp isn’t cutting out now that it is pressed in but I guess I’ll know for sure on my 25 minute commute to work tomorrow.

 

[carljackson04]

I have the box mounted and should have the sub installed in it this weekend (first sub was a dud) and will report back. They give you the bolt, washers and nuts to fasten it to the truck. I had to run the screw through the front of the box, put a washer then nut on at the backside of the box and tighten (they countersunk the back of the box where the bolt passes through so it sits flat and tight against the wall) then place the bolt through the hole in the truck and reach back around with my left arm with the second washer and nut to tighten with a socket wrench with a short extension to fasten it. Even though it’s only one bolt, it isn’t going anywhere. Otherwise the sub can’t seat into the opening. The bolt head is super close to the subwoofer magnet. I had to detach the park assist module to the left of the box to get my arm back there, which wasn’t a big deal.
I was able to mount the 500.1 on the Mountains 2 Metal plate with a few wire ties after notching the plastic flange on one end of the amp so it would sit flat on the plate. Plenty of room above the glove box for it.

Thanks for the info. I can’t wait to start working on my system. Just need to pull the trigger on a box I guess.

 

[Nflandrum]

If anyone has a copy of the dash removal instructions 67BroncoG1 was using and could add it to the chat I would appreciate it. Hoping to install my 200.4 tomorrow in just about the same way but I don’t have a smartphone to watch the video while I do it. Thanks.

 

[Barlos]

Yes. The thing to keep in mind here is that typically folks set subwoofer crossovers at 60Hz. So 60Hz and below gets you that bigger BOOM and anything above 60Hz is handled by other speakers in the soundstage.

So that in mind, 6.5" speakers that have a range starting at 65Hz are designed for use WITH subwoofers. This is the problem many folks are running into when they replace the factory kick panel speakers with "good" 6.5" woofers. They are losing low end range because they're designed to be used in conjunction with a subwoofer.

If you don't want to run a subwoofer, you need 6.5" speakers that have a lower range (like the factory speaker) and those typically exist at the lower end of the price scale. There are 6.5" woofers that have a range starting at 35Hz. For example the Polk DB+ 6502 components start at 35Hz (got these for the kick panels) and the Polk DB+ 652 2-way coaxials start at 40Hz (I got those 6.5's for the rear speakers to use in the SSV speaker pods I got).

If you go buy some fancy 6.5" speakers that are better than the run of the mill stuff, you'll see they typically do not service any of the range that is subwoofer territory.

That’s exactly what happened to me. Spent $300 on them fancy 6.5s and lost sound :/ I though I needed more power but now I know. Thank you for the knowledge! I will follow your advise. And yes I am a bass head lol

 

[Barlos]

My 200.4 was cutting out due to the limiter on the amp at 20-23 on the volume dial.

My 200.4 was cutting out around 20-23 on the volume dial. I thought I had the radio detect button pressed in because it was flush to the amp face. Turns out it wasn’t and sits below the surface when pressed in. My amp isn’t cutting out now that it is pressed in but I guess I’ll know for sure on my 25 minute commute to work tomorrow.

Mine does the same at vol 19 it cuts , I have a questions for you guys , are you running power from your harness or straight from the battery ?

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