Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[Ft. Worth Rob]

Thanks for the info. I can’t wait to start working on my system. Just need to pull the trigger on a box I guess.

I installed the Kicker sub in the SRQ box. I just have the 500.1 at the lowest gain, low pass crossover at 10Hz and high pass at its max (160Hz, I think?) and the bass boost turned off and sub wired to 2ohm and it sounds great. Deep, tight bass more reminiscent of a 10” sub from my experience. I’d definitely recommend the SRQ box.

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[Mc1guil]

Did the entire install, PNP with power to head unit for kicker key and Hideaway 10. Ran all the wires, dual power to the batter for extra line on the amp and sub and fired up when I switch the power switch to the lower. No sound from front left speakers (dash/kick panel). Turned the vehicle off to check and then back on and now nothing. No power to sub, no power to amp, no blown fuses. Unplugged the PNP Fromm the head unit and returned to stock, minus the upgraded 6 speakers, and works perfect.

Any suggestions??

I grounded the amp power to a ground adjacent from the kick panel speaker and ground the sub to a spot on the inner rear fender behind the plastic trim.

Appreciate the feedback

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

I installed the Kicker sub in the SRQ box. I just have the 500.1 at the lowest gain, low pass crossover at 10Hz and high pass at its max (160Hz, I think?) and the bass boost turned off and sub wired to 2ohm and it sounds great. Deep, tight bass more reminiscent of a 10” sub from my experience. I’d definitely recommend the SRQ box.

Update. For those who install this box, note that SRQ notched a couple spots on the bottom where some threads protrude from the wheel well to help the box sit lower. Mine wasn’t notched in the correct place. I used a drill bit to burrow out the correct location. I also had to take an orbital sander with 60 grit paper to trim about 1/3” off in the following spots circled in yellow to get the box to sit low enough for the rear trim panel to clear. The rear side trim panel needed the front edge of the box to sit 6” below the bottom of the metal lip that the top rests on as pictured.

Finally, here are some pictures of what I did to prevent rattles.
1. I put adhesive-backed felt over all holes/slots that clips fit into.
2. Where clips mounted to the back of the plastic trim panel, I put cloth tape either around the heads or on the panel.
3. I applied dynamat to all flat surfaces on the back of the panel and in a few spots on the sheet metal.
4. I applied quilt batting to the back of the panel with double-sided tape to prevent any metal on plastic contact.
Not pretty but I have no buzzing or rattles.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

Did the entire install, PNP with power to head unit for kicker key and Hideaway 10. Ran all the wires, dual power to the batter for extra line on the amp and sub and fired up when I switch the power switch to the lower. No sound from front left speakers (dash/kick panel). Turned the vehicle off to check and then back on and now nothing. No power to sub, no power to amp, no blown fuses. Unplugged the PNP Fromm the head unit and returned to stock, minus the upgraded 6 speakers, and works perfect.

Any suggestions??

I grounded the amp power to a ground adjacent from the kick panel speaker and ground the sub to a spot on the inner rear fender behind the plastic trim.

Appreciate the feedback

I’d suggest calling Kicker tech support.

I’m not an expert but here are some thoughts.

I’ve never heard of anyone running power for the amp to two locations - off the radio wires and also to the battery. I’d imagine that’s not advisable. Be sure you have an inline 20 amp fuse near the battery for the Kicker 200.4.

Do you have power running to the battery from the hideaway or are you trying to run that off the radio power? The hideaway should be running to the battery with its own separate 15amp fuse. Be sure the DC offset button is set so the sub amp gets its turn on.

Regarding only getting sound out of the left speakers, check your connections on the right speakers. I got a metra pigtail that was missing the female connector. Not sure if you’re having ohm load issues with the Kicker 200.4 not knowing how the mids/highs are set up.

 

[Docindahouze]

Would this work I’m my 23MY base model with the 7 speaker system? Thanks.

 

[Altitude]

My 200.4 was cutting out due to the limiter on the amp at 20-23 on the volume dial.

My 200.4 was cutting out around 20-23 on the volume dial. I thought I had the radio detect button pressed in because it was flush to the amp face. Turns out it wasn’t and sits below the surface when pressed in. My amp isn’t cutting out now that it is pressed in but I guess I’ll know for sure on my 25 minute commute to work tomorrow.

I had this issue with my AudioControl ACM 300.4 amp when using the speaker signal sense to turn it on and off. It would momentarily shut off and turn back on when going to 20 (or lower for bass heavy songs). I suspected that when the factory head unit is clipping it cuts or drops the signal just enough to cause the amp to turn off and immediately back on. I ran a standard remote wire to the amp using a fuse box 'add a circuit' and it solved the problem.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

I had this issue with my AudioControl ACM 300.4 amp when using the speaker signal sense to turn it on and off. It would momentarily shut off and turn back on when going to 20 (or lower for bass heavy songs). I suspected that when the factory head unit is clipping it cuts or drops the signal just enough to cause the amp to turn off and immediately back on. I ran a standard remote wire to the amp using a fuse box 'add a circuit' and it solved the problem.

Ever since I pressed the radio detect button in I’ve had no issues. Even if I cranked it to 30. Problem solved.

 

[Lynchpin]

does the DSP in the kicker key really make that much of a difference? I've replaced the dash speakers and rears with some cheap Pioneer speakers. They sound different than the factory but not much better. the tweeters are a bit harsh and that's just running off the head unit. I'm wondering if just going to a better pair of speakers would be more beneficial than adding the Key? I have a 4 channel JL Audio amp I can run but it doesn't have any type of DSP.

 

[Alassise]

does the DSP in the kicker key really make that much of a difference? I've replaced the dash speakers and rears with some cheap Pioneer speakers. They sound different than the factory but not much better. the tweeters are a bit harsh and that's just running off the head unit. I'm wondering if just going to a better pair of speakers would be more beneficial than adding the Key? I have a 4 channel JL Audio amp I can run but it doesn't have any type of DSP.

I can't attest to the DSP benefit, but I added amplification (JL Audio XD 700) to aftermarket speakers (JL C3 650 MID BASS on kick panel, MEMPHIS PRX 4 for dash and rear pods and JL 8in dual woofers) the sound is amazing. The rear pods are powered by the head unit and the rest are amplified. The volume level at 8 is enough at highway speeds with the top up. I think the trick is amplification and good speakers. I didn't use the C3 tweets on the dash as the sound was lacking midrange. Maybe one day I will add them with a different midrange on the dash when the available custom pods/grills come down in price.

We still tweaking the sound. One issue is that the ignition chime is amplified when you start the vehicle, and is very annoying. We are trying to figure out a way to turn it down, but in time, FORSCAN will be the likely solution. Also, I lost fading capability to the rear speakers but they provide great fill. The soundstage on my vehicle feels like I am facing the band playing in surround mode. I do enjoy all kinds of music, punchy bass and clean clear sound. This set up provided that for me. As I stated earlier, amplification is the key. Use what you have at hand. 4 in speakers are easy to upgrade, specially if you have a good amp.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

I installed 4” Focal speakers in the rear and Focal ASE 165 components in the front running through the Kicker 200.4. The Kicker does improve the soundstage immensely by attenuating the rear speakers and centering and raising the vocal imaging. Could using the fader do a little of that? Yes. For the money and the fact I could place that amp and the Kicker 500.1 inside the dash where both are easily accessible and don’t take up space, I’d choose it again. It just depends on if you want loud and clear or that and better imaging.

 

[nwGTS]

does the DSP in the kicker key really make that much of a difference? I've replaced the dash speakers and rears with some cheap Pioneer speakers. They sound different than the factory but not much better. the tweeters are a bit harsh and that's just running off the head unit. I'm wondering if just going to a better pair of speakers would be more beneficial than adding the Key? I have a 4 channel JL Audio amp I can run but it doesn't have any type of DSP.

I went with Kicker CS all around (300 hz blockers in the dash) and the forescan mods first. MUCH clearer sound but the OEM head unit amp lacks the power to drive the new 6.75" in the kick panel (and upgraded 6.75" in the rear).

Next I added the KK 200.4. Outstanding power, finally at least SOME bass.
I then ran the DSP, but the result was muddy booming bass. I had read this opinion from several others here too. I think the DSP is trying to fill in the lows too much and the result on 6.75"s is muddy bass.. Even monkeying with the Sync EQ couldnt get rid of it. So, I turned it off and the frequency dynamics are much better.

I have the 500.1 + 8" CompRT in the OEM enclosure going in after I finish installing the sound deadening.
I'll then clip any signal under 60 or 90hZ from the 200.4 using the toggles on the 200.4 and drive all the bass through the sub.

All to say, though I've only had it running for 24 hours, I don't like the DSP results.

 

[nwGTS]

Update. For those who install this box, note that SRQ notched a couple spots on the bottom where some threads protrude from the wheel well to help the box sit lower. Mine wasn’t notched in the correct place. I used a drill bit to burrow out the correct location. I also had to take an orbital sander with 60 grit paper to trim about 1/3” off in the following spots circled in yellow to get the box to sit low enough for the rear trim panel to clear. The rear side trim panel needed the front edge of the box to sit 6” below the bottom of the metal lip that the top rests on as pictured.

Finally, here are some pictures of what I did to prevent rattles.
1. I put adhesive-backed felt over all holes/slots that clips fit into.
2. Where clips mounted to the back of the plastic trim panel, I put cloth tape either around the heads or on the panel.
3. I applied dynamat to all flat surfaces on the back of the panel and in a few spots on the sheet metal.
4. I applied quilt batting to the back of the panel with double-sided tape to prevent any metal on plastic contact.
Not pretty but I have no buzzing or rattles.

Great idea with the felt tape. And looks like I'm going to be thieving some white backing from the Mrs snow village.

 

[mintypickleman]

I went with Kicker CS all around (300 hz blockers in the dash) and the forescan mods first. MUCH clearer sound but the OEM head unit amp lacks the power to drive the new 6.75" in the kick panel (and upgraded 6.75" in the rear).

Next I added the KK 200.4. Outstanding power, finally at least SOME bass.
I then ran the DSP, but the result was muddy booming bass. I had read this opinion from several others here too. I think the DSP is trying to fill in the lows too much and the result on 6.75"s is muddy bass.. Even monkeying with the Sync EQ couldnt get rid of it. So, I turned it off and the frequency dynamics are much better.

I have the 500.1 + 8" CompRT in the OEM enclosure going in after I finish installing the sound deadening.
I'll then clip any signal under 60 or 90hZ from the 200.4 using the toggles on the 200.4 and drive all the bass through the sub.

All to say, though I've only had it running for 24 hours, I don't like the DSP results.

For me I replaced only the dash and rear speakers so far, the kick panels are still stock, installed the 200.1 and ran dsp. Sounded pretty good but the bass was a little muddy. So instead I re wired and ran the 200.1 in bi amp mode. In bi amp mode each front speaker gets powered by one channel on the amp and the rears still run off the head unit. In bi amp mode the dsp will determine if the dash speakers are full range or just tweeters and separate frequencies accordingly.
After switching, the muddy low end is gone, I'm guessing because the key is setting the high pass on the dash speakers at 320Hz and the low pass on the kicks at 640Hz according the the manual.
The bass is much cleaner with the tiny speaker not having to play it. While letting the larger kick speakers handle it without also not having to cover the high end. Honestly the stock kicks do a decent job with this setup. Without a sub you're not gonna get big bass even out of a high end 6.5 speaker, they just can't move the air necessary for that.
Not sure why the bass blockers didn't have the similar result as the bi amp mode, but bi amp worked really well for me.
Just a data point.

 

[nwGTS]

For me I replaced only the dash and rear speakers so far, the kick panels are still stock, installed the 200.1 and ran dsp. Sounded pretty good but the bass was a little muddy. So instead I re wired and ran the 200.1 in bi amp mode. In bi amp mode each front speaker gets powered by one channel on the amp and the rears still run off the head unit. In bi amp mode the dsp will determine if the dash speakers are full range or just tweeters and separate frequencies accordingly.
After switching, the muddy low end is gone, I'm guessing because the key is setting the high pass on the dash speakers at 320Hz and the low pass on the kicks at 640Hz according the the manual.
The bass is much cleaner with the tiny speaker not having to play it. While letting the larger kick speakers handle it without also not having to cover the high end. Honestly the stock kicks do a decent job with this setup. Without a sub you're not gonna get big bass even out of a high end 6.5 speaker, they just can't move the air necessary for that.
Not sure why the bass blockers didn't have the similar result as the bi amp mode, but bi amp worked really well for me.
Just a data point.

Great input. I should add that the muddy bass is only out of the kick panel 6.75s. The dash speakers sound great, so the blockers are doing their job well. I think you might be right that attempting to EQ balance a channel (RF, for example) that is a two speaker setup with one being a tweeter and the other a coaxial woofer it really giving the 200.4 a run for it's money, and, unfortunately, failing at it.

The OEM head unit is still not powerful enough to drive the rear Kicker CS 6.75s so bi-amp mode I don't think will work for me.
That said, once I get the sub installed, I'll monkey with the DSP and low pass settings on the 200.4 and then report back.

Side note, the forum has been invaluable with input for upgrading the stereo. Every challenge I've faced has already been addressed and discussed here. No surprises... just challenges and plans to solve. Love it.

 

[mintypickleman]

Great input. I should add that the muddy bass is only out of the kick panel 6.75s. The dash speakers sound great, so the blockers are doing their job well. I think you might be right that attempting to EQ balance a channel (RF, for example) that is a two speaker setup with one being a tweeter and the other a coaxial woofer it really giving the 200.4 a run for it's money, and, unfortunately, failing at it.

The OEM head unit is still not powerful enough to drive the rear Kicker CS 6.75s so bi-amp mode I don't think will work for me.
That said, once I get the sub installed, I'll monkey with the DSP and low pass settings on the 200.4 and then report back.

Side note, the forum has been invaluable with input for upgrading the stereo. Every challenge I've faced has already been addressed and discussed here. No surprises... just challenges and plans to solve. Love it.

I forgot I saw you had the bigger speakers in the rear. You're right you need more power for those. Did you do forscan or have the dealer flash to open up full range to those speakers? I decided to do bi amp because even with the upgraded speakers the rears still suck without the full range, so I decided it's just fill sound anyways I'll get the front sound stage dialed and leave the tiny not full range rears as is. I'm deciding if I want to upgrade the kicks or not. I know without a sub I won't get good bass, I'm waiting to see what the JL stealthbox offering is, before I decide. But pleasantly surprised with the stock kicks performance. If I add a sub the juice might not be worth the squeeze but if I don't go the sub route I'll probably replace them with a dedicated woofer either stand alone or from a component set and call it good

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