Bronco Aftermarket Suspension Comparison: Radflo vs. King vs. Icon Stage 7

[Hemisfear]

I pick the Falcons! lol

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[kodiakisland]

Do you have a link for that? I've searched several times and been unable to find it on their website or a generic Google search. Not sure why.

You have to call them. It's included in their 3 and 5 inch lift kits, but not on the site separately. They do sell just the bracket though if you call and order it. It's a very simple bracket and over priced for what it is, but it works well. My brake lines were extremely tight in my driveway not at full droop. the bracket adds a lot of slack and now at full droop I have plenty of room.

This was jacking up one side without having the tire off the ground. Glad I checked before heading to the trail. I added a track bar relocation bracket at the same time I did the brake line relocation.

 

[Parabellum]

My .02 cents. The spring rate is far too stiff on the king front coilover. Either the Coilover is incorrect as a whole, or it is installed incorrectly. Note the slack in this image that I stole from SRQ Fabrications.

Anyhow the lack of "tuck" in the front is likely due to that front spring rate being too high for your setup. I don't know the weight difference between the 2.7 and 2.3. Regardless, the suspension you have is just too stiff up front for your truck.

In the toyota world, we stock several spring rates to account for different configurations and it's not uncommon for us to go with stiffer springs as our guys upgrade and add gear.

If you're set on keeping that spring up front, one of the things you can do to get more tuck in the front is either stiffen the rear sway bar, or soften the front (remove the front sway altogether). However the front sways on our rigs are huge and likely account for a majority of the anti roll.

 

[kodiakisland]

My .02 cents. The spring rate is far too stiff on the king front coilover. Either the Coilover is incorrect as a whole, or it is installed incorrectly. Note the slack in this image that I stole from SRQ Fabrications.

Anyhow the lack of "tuck" in the front is likely due to that front spring rate being too high for your setup. I don't know the weight difference between the 2.7 and 2.3. Regardless, the suspension you have is just too stiff up front for your truck.

In the toyota world, we stock several spring rates to account for different configurations and it's not uncommon for us to go with stiffer springs as our guys upgrade and add gear.

If you're set on keeping that spring up front, one of the things you can do to get more tuck in the front is either stiffen the rear sway bar, or soften the front (remove the front sway altogether). However the front sways on our rigs are huge and likely account for a majority of the anti roll.

Maybe the spring rate, but I think it's more due to the sway bar connected as I have the same problem with my Icons. The lift is just too much for the sway bar. I only use my swaybar for long interstate drives now and prefer it removed for daily ride.

 

[Parabellum]

Maybe the spring rate, but I think it's more due to the sway bar connected as I have the same problem with my Icons. The lift is just too much for the sway bar. I only use my swaybar for long interstate drives now and prefer it removed for daily ride.

Your sway bar has no effect on lift height. Sway bar just counteracts body roll. Spring weight supports the weight of the vehicle and thus determines ride height. So if the truck is too high and preload is removed or minimized, then spring rate is incorrect for the vehicle weight.

 

[kodiakisland]

Your sway bar has no effect on lift height. Sway bar just counteracts body roll. Spring weight supports the weight of the vehicle and thus determines ride height. So if the truck is too high and preload is removed or minimized, then spring rate is incorrect for the vehicle weight.

I didn't say the sway bar effects lift, but it is certainly affected by lift. If you don't believe that, see how much tension is on the sway bar at stock height and at lifted height. He couldn't get full stuff because the sway bar is under too much tension at that lift. It can only twist so much as is. Remove the sway bar and I bet those stuff numbers increase quite a bit. I know they do on mine with the Icons. That's not spring rate.

Rockjock should have their swaybar out this summer with correct length arms for the amount of lift you have to correct that problem.

Of course, I am not talking about his ride height, but his ability or lack thereof to have any stuff. I guess if he tries it without the swaybar and the numbers are the same, then spring rate would most likely be the culprit.

 

[Parabellum]

I didn't say the sway bar effects lift, but it is certainly affected by lift. If you don't believe that, see how much tension is on the sway bar at stock height and at lifted height. He couldn't get full stuff because the sway bar is under too much tension at that lift. It can only twist so much as is. Remove the sway bar and I bet those stuff numbers increase quite a bit. I know they do on mine with the Icons. That's not spring rate.

Rockjock should have their swaybar out this summer with correct length arms for the amount of lift you have to correct that problem.

Of course, I am not talking about his ride height, but his ability or lack thereof to have any stuff. I guess if he tries it without the swaybar and the numbers are the same, then spring rate would most likely be the culprit.

I think our confusion lies in that he had two complaints. One was about ride height and preload. One was about the lack of articulation in the front of his truck. The only variable between his truck and his friends truck that is using a radflo setup is the coilover assembly. So assuming the sway bar is the same between two rigs, than the only thing limiting articulation (specifically compression) is either the coil spring rate or an internal difference in the shock (ie an internal bump or something else limiting compression). I think because he has all of the preload out of the coilover, that the spring is likely too stiff and limiting compression.

Of course removing the front sway or softening it via a rock jock setup will increase articulation. But there is articulation “left on the table” with the setup he has due to the current coilover config.

 

[popo_patty]

I didn't say the sway bar effects lift, but it is certainly affected by lift. If you don't believe that, see how much tension is on the sway bar at stock height and at lifted height. He couldn't get full stuff because the sway bar is under too much tension at that lift. It can only twist so much as is. Remove the sway bar and I bet those stuff numbers increase quite a bit. I know they do on mine with the Icons. That's not spring rate.

Rockjock should have their swaybar out this summer with correct length arms for the amount of lift you have to correct that problem.

Of course, I am not talking about his ride height, but his ability or lack thereof to have any stuff. I guess if he tries it without the swaybar and the numbers are the same, then spring rate would most likely be the culprit.

I’m liking this conversation y’all!
Im believing after some more thought that my spring rate is just way to much. Still odd because King insists that it will only raise it 1” over SAS at the height it comes on. Of course I had different reps feed me different info so it’s been annoying trying to get legit info.
Rear axle at almost full droop has slack in the brake lines still. Icons will definitely flex more I believe. King designed their kit to not exceed factory setup there.
And yes, my front resi hose is tight on the passenger side. I have it in my schedule to adjust it to give it some slack. That isn’t effecting my droop though up front as it doesn’t move with articulation. It’s not kinked but it’s close. Sway bar and spring rate are the most likely culprits.
For the review I’m keeping it stock but after the review I’m doing a before/after tune video featuring accutunes tune with their piston. I’ll probably mess with front and rear spring rates as well. Stiffer in the rear and softer up front. I was told they need 1000 miles to break in too. I’ve done about 500 with no change so we will see if that makes a difference.
I might hit up the off-road park today and screw around

 

[kodiakisland]

I think our confusion lies in that he had two complaints. One was about ride height and preload. One was about the lack of articulation in the front of his truck. The only variable between his truck and his friends truck that is using a radflo setup is the coilover assembly. So assuming the sway bar is the same between two rigs, than the only thing limiting articulation (specifically compression) is either the coil spring rate or an internal difference in the shock (ie an internal bump or something else limiting compression). I think because he has all of the preload out of the coilover, that the spring is likely too stiff and limiting compression.

Of course removing the front sway or softening it via a rock jock setup will increase articulation. But there is articulation “left on the table” with the setup he has due to the current coilover config.

If I read it correctly, one has the standard bar and the other has the disco, which may also be part of it.

I’m assuming, hoping, the correct spring was verified when it was discovered it had Tundra top hat parts.

 

[popo_patty]

If I read it correctly, one has the standard bar and the other has the disco, which may also be part of it.

I’m assuming, hoping, the correct spring was verified when it was discovered it had Tundra top hat parts.

Yup, spring rate is 550 up front which is what King calls for and was verified (it’s written on spring). I contacted the disco company and they said it doesn’t make a difference in articulation from stock when connected. I believe our difference lies in spring rates and maaaybe something wrong with my Kings

 

[rtaylor]

Yup, spring rate is 550 up front which is what King calls for and was verified (it’s written on spring).

Factory Bilstein is 415 in/lb, so 550 will have less typical wheel travel.

I contacted the disco company and they said it doesn’t make a difference in articulation from stock when connected.

Only if max droop is the same as stock. With longer coilovers (Fox, King, Icon), the increased droop on one side will prevent full tuck on the other when swaybar connected.

 

[CASM920]

Yup, spring rate is 550 up front which is what King calls for and was verified (it’s written on spring). I contacted the disco company and they said it doesn’t make a difference in articulation from stock when connected. I believe our difference lies in spring rates and maaaybe something wrong with my Kings

I have Kings on my 4 DR Badlands SAS 2.7L and I netted 2” of lift over stock SAS height as well. Same 550lbs spring rate and I want a lower ride height and have no plans of running 37's. The preload collar like yours is fully adjusted up. I have concerns about about going to a lower spring rate as it'll move the shock stroke higher into the compression zone. I'm measuring 3" of exposed shaft at ride height, I've drooped out the suspension in the garage with sway bar off and had a total of 5" of shaft showing; however, I've seen King specs posted on Accutune saying there is 6" of shaft travel. Regardless I'm at either 60/40 or 50/50 Comp/Droop as is and there really isn't much room to adjust as 60/40 to 55/45 is the ideal range for the type of driving I do.

 

[popo_patty]

I have Kings on my 4 DR Badlands SAS 2.7L and I netted 2” of lift over stock SAS height as well. Same 550lbs spring rate and I want a lower ride height and have no plans of running 37's. The preload collar like yours is fully adjusted up. I have concerns about about going to a lower spring rate as it'll move the shock stroke higher into the compression zone. I'm measuring 3" of exposed shaft at ride height, I've drooped out the suspension in the garage with sway bar off and had a total of 5" of shaft showing; however, I've seen King specs posted on Accutune saying there is 6" of shaft travel. Regardless I'm at either 60/40 or 50/50 Comp/Droop as is and there really isn't much room to adjust as 60/40 to 55/45 is the ideal range for the type of driving I do.

Any tune done on your shocks? Or just riding as they come? How is your ride feeling and steering?

 

[jonesh242]

I'm no expert, but this hose/reservoir setup is no bueno!!

 

[popo_patty]

I'm no expert, but this hose/reservoir setup is no bueno!!

Nope, on the list to be adjusted. Driver side is great but the passenger side is tight. Adjusting today

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